oil on the good foot

[bikerphil]

Eric, did you end up using Lock Tite on the sleeve or not?

[speedlimit85]

No. Now it may be possible to remove the sleeve. With locktite it is stuck forever.

[bikerphil]

Good to know that it will hold up without it.

[speedlimit85]

Yes. It's been 6,000 mi. without leaking. 3000 mi ago it was the o-ring.

I removed the cover to tighten the chain ( yea still got the stock tensioner) looked and felt dry. No oil residue- nothing slick at all.

I hope it lasts. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks.

[bikerphil]

No problem brother, it was my pleasure.
This has been a good thread.

[DEEBS11]

Yes. It's been 6,000 mi. without leaking. 3000 mi ago it was the o-ring.

I removed the cover to tighten the chain ( yea still got the stock tensioner) looked and felt dry. No oil residue- nothing slick at all.

I hope it lasts. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks.

Hi Speedlimit85, are you still leak free here in September? How many miles? Looks like I am looking at a left seal job as well. Got a bit of oil on my left shoe today. Took off the cover and it had about a shot glass of oil inside. Joy.

[speedlimit85]

Yes. I am leak free. The only leak I have still is from the left head gasket.

First try changing the o-ring under the cover behind the bolt. That oil can get in the cover.

If not fixed then it is the seal which is hard to remove. It was installed with the cases split and has an edge inside. I punctured it, then pried it, got it out.

The new seal is a different size with no edge -partzilla is wrong that seal is for the other side=

32X48X8 correct size https://www.oringsandmore.com/metric...-ref-cr563065/

Biker Phil was my guide.

[DEEBS11]

Thanks, definitely leaking from crank seal but I will also replace plug O-ring. I ended up with this Viton seal. Will install soon.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134266201693

[DEEBS11]

OK, I did the repair with the info Phil & Speedlimit85 have provided. The old seal has a lip on it that holds it in the case so its real fun to get out. Just be careful not to hurt the case or the crankshaft end.

[DEEBS11]

I started by piercing the rubber covered metal portion of the seal. Only drill through the seal with the lightest of pressure so the bit does not hit the soft aluminum case which is only millimeters away. Start to carefully remove as much rubber as possible using an Xacto razor. Then pull out enough metal to grab on a good size chunk with Vice-Grips. I used a large seal puller tool to fully remove it from the case. Remember - the seal was not to be removed in this way. It was designed to be removed by splitting the cases so it needs an considerable amount of force that could easily damage something.

[DEEBS11]

Here you can see the lip on the old seal and the new seal with its conventional flat design.

[DEEBS11]

The new seal installed. I like to use copper RTV. Let it set up for 24 hours and took it for a good 50 mile ride. No leaks so far. Thank you to all (especially Phil) for the good info.

[bikerphil]

Yep, DEEBS, and thank you for adding those photos.

Wait till one day when you need to change the ALT side, you'll be in for a surprise.

[DEEBS11]

Yes, the level of difficulty will be higher because of the rotor. Luckily I have had it out a while back when I changed motors and re-gasketed the cover. The part that I do not look forward to is disconnecting the entire sidecar so I can get at the cover. I did buy the seal to have it ready on the shelf along with another new gasket. I will post if it happens.

[bikerphil]

Well, removing the rotor is not the difficult part. On the ALT side, the top and bottom case depths are different. If not done carefully, the seal will go in too far on the bottom half and sit cockeyed, and there is no way of pulling it back AFAIK without ruining it. It needs to be tapped in just far enough stopping flush with the outer lip of the case. I'm glad I had two seals the first time I did this because I ruined the first one.