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  • Hey Eric just a thought, does your engine run smoothly or is there any excessive vibration? The latter may be the crankshaft bouncing around causing the oil to get past the seal. If a bearing is worn and/or the oil is too thin, I would think this could be possible.
    2H7 (79)
    3H3

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • JAT Are the stock crank seals directional ?
      1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
      1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
      1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
      1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
      1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

      Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

      Comment


      • The bike runs great and the seal and sleave worked for 10.000 mi. It was dry in there and I felt and looked- I remember a smear under the timing plate felt and smelled like burnt rubber. Maybe the seal was degrading against the sleave at the outer edge to the second lip?

        I have to try another seal before attempting to remove a metal sleave from the crank in a small space.

        I had a leak repair at the oil return and ran low on oil during these 10.000 mi I don't know but a seal should stop oil at most temp, pressure, grade quality, quantity...and for more miles.

        No one else is gonna fix it. so I gotta do it with your help.
        80 G

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Schming View Post
          JAT Are the stock crank seals directional ?
          The seal only goes on one way.
          80 G

          Comment


          • Originally posted by speedlimit85 View Post

            The seal only goes on one way.
            Agreed, but this link explains what I mean by directional.

            https://www.tr-register.com.au/Files.../oil-seals.htm

            1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
            1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
            1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
            1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
            1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

            Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Schming View Post

              Use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and a steady hand, only cut half way through the thickness, then using a small straight pick or sharp scratch awl inline with the crankshaft right at the score line, carefully tap the point of the pick/awl in between the sleeve and the crank to split the sleeve off of the crank.
              The seal is 32x 48 meaning there are less than 16 mm to fit a dremel without cutting into the case. Is that available or possible?

              80 G

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Schming View Post

                Agreed, but this link explains what I mean by directional.

                https://www.tr-register.com.au/Files.../oil-seals.htm
                I believe it looked plain (bi-directional).
                80 G

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Schming View Post
                  JAT Are the stock crank seals directional ?
                  an arrow on the original...yes...hmmm
                  80 G

                  Comment


                  • Bingo! . Must be directional to pull oil in towards the motor. You can actually see the directional ribs in this picture (stock "split_the_case" type seal).

                    Click image for larger version  Name:	s-l1600 (29).jpg Views:	0 Size:	136.4 KB ID:	877730
                    Last edited by DEEBS11; 01-30-2024, 04:58 AM.

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                    • Click image for larger version

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ID:	877732

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by speedlimit85 View Post

                        The seal is 32x 48 meaning there are less than 16 mm to fit a dremel without cutting into the case. Is that available or possible?
                        You can also use a micro file and file a groove. You DO NOT want to file all the way to the crank, just a score lineit can split along.
                        1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                        1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                        1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                        1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                        1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                        Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by speedlimit85 View Post

                          an arrow on the original...yes...hmmm
                          Are the seals your using directional ? If not I'd bet that's your longevity issue.
                          1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                          1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                          1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                          1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                          1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                          Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Schming View Post

                            You can also use a micro file and file a groove. You DO NOT want to file all the way to the crank, just a score lineit can split along.
                            That may be possible. How do I know if it needs to be removed? I would then need to install another, right?

                            https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...0/99128?pos=10

                            yamaha seals:

                            https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...eeb19b62f81350

                            https://www.cmsnl.com/products/oil-s...h7_9310132144/

                            Other side replacement seal looks directional.

                            Phil's is working and mine was, the seals we are using are good steel with high temp rubber (bi-directional I think).

                            https://www.oringsandmore.com/oil-sh...-ref-cr563065/

                            https://www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-oi...rice-for-1-pc/




                            80 G

                            Comment


                            • There is possibly more to this seal issue than an off the shelf 32x48x8 size. Material & design of the original part must be taken into account. It's very possible that there was nothing really wrong with your installation that lasted 10,000 miles or mine that lasted 7,000 miles. I think a badly installed seal will leak right away. The issue could be seal design and material. There are directional seal designs and specific materials that come into play. Our replacement seals were possibly good but could have simply wore out quick from friction and heat and possibly directional rotation.

                              https://rlhudson.com/wp-content/uplo...seal-guide.pdf

                              https://www.clarkseals.com/pdf/shaft-seal-catalog.pdf


                              Click image for larger version  Name:	seals.jpg Views:	0 Size:	221.7 KB ID:	877738

                              Last edited by DEEBS11; 01-31-2024, 06:52 AM.

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                              • The other side has lines going the other way. I got this one from yamaha. It is the replacement seal on the phish for both sides
                                Attached Files
                                80 G

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