oil on the good foot

[speedlimit85]

awesome, mine too

I've got over 10,000 miles leak free.

[DEEBS11]

Update, this repair has lasted over a year with many thousands of miles. I highly recommend it.

[skids]

Wow! Good work.

[DEEBS11]

Mike, the directions that come with the sleeve suggest that you use a "Non Hardening" sealant under the sleeve. You are also asked to fill the pits in the metal with "powdered?" epoxy. I can tell you it was not easy to line up this sleeve and tap it on with a plastic mallet. Quite the interference fit. VERY tight. If you apply anything It would slip off and be pushed in towards the motor/sleeve bearing so I felt that in my case it was certainly not necessary.

BTW, I took it for a hundred mile hike yesterday and it was finally dry.

[Radioguylogs]

For the record, no goop under the sleeve in your instance?

[DEEBS11]

I installed the sleeve and removed the lip. This leaves a nasty rough knife edge. You *MUST* tape the end to protect the seal. I used another Viton single lip seal. Let's hope 3rd times the charm.

[DEEBS11]

Purchased the SKF 99128 sleeve kit to repair the crankshaft surface. Welding the pits and re-machining are the only other alternative.

[DEEBS11]

Thanks Skids, however, this was not the end of my leak problem. It started to leak slightly even with the repair. I looked into it further and found pitting on the crankshaft. This corrosion was caused by water in the crankcase sitting for years and eating away at the metal. I tried cleaning it up with #2000 emery cloth but could still catch the pits with a dental pick. You can change seals all you want but the end result is the same. Leaks. You can see the tiny threads at the end of the shaft that turn in as it rotates. Nice sharp edges to cut new seals. You must tape the shaft to protect a new seal or it will certainly fail.

[skids]

Good write-up.

[DEEBS11]

[DEEBS11]

OK, made some time this morning to re-do this seal. Removed Buna double lip and installed a Viton single lip. It can take higher temps and it's single lip like the original. I wrapped the crank end with black electrical tape to install. 36MM socket to gently tap in.

[DEEBS11]

Copy that.

[speedlimit85]

Right. No sleeve.

I may have happened upon a good installation by not letting the bike cool off. The seal before leaked in 30 mi so I did it again right away.

It went in clean and easy. These kind of seals seem more brittle but durable.

If I get a drop of oil on my toe, I'll let you know.

[DEEBS11]

Speed, I'm going to try the Viton seal also. I think that one will last. You have this installed with no sleeve, right?

[speedlimit85]

The entire seal is against the crankshaft, but the second lip may only protect the first from contamination.

Oil should not reach the second lip so it needs grease.

oringsandmore.com is out of virginia.

I'm curious about the napa Transfer Case Rear Output Shaft Seal


Spring Loaded, SKF Patented Bi-Directional Wave Seal, Positive Fluid Control,Chemical & Abrasion Resistant Rubber, Temps From -40 Deg F to 400 Deg F

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOS12736

I may ask them to order it and look at it without buying it to see if it looks like it could work for this.

I am not buying any while my foot is dry...900+ mi

And, the right side seal is still available directional and installable without splitting cases.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...eeb19b62f81350