oil on the good foot

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    That would probably ruin the seal radial surface that touches the case.

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  • speedlimit85
    replied


    the original seal

    is it possible to shave off the part that went in the cases and use this one?

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  • speedlimit85
    replied
    I tried a seal without silicone and it leaked right away.

    Now got the other single lip with high temp grease on both sides of the lip and silicone on the outer edge.

    I was able to push the seal most of the way in with my thumbs since the bike hadn't cooled all the way.

    The crank is wider in toward the bike like it bellows or the opposite of a bevel. A design to ensure the seal works? The lip of the seal is against the surface of the metal around the shaft and on the back edge.

    The sleeve had conformed to this shape reflecting and has a groove from the seal.

    I believe this means the seal needs to be as far in as possible to seat right.

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    Nice! Looks good!

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  • speedlimit85
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	877803 Got the sleeve out. Crank looks good.

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    Heat should do it. You could try to start with a good heat gun and if that doesn't work a little propane with a pencil tip. Map gas might be too hot. Just be gentle with the pliers.

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by DEEBS11; 02-02-2024, 12:52 PM.

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    You should be OK doing that, just go easy, I wouldn't go so far as getting it cherry red.

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  • speedlimit85
    replied
    Can Torching the sleeve to pull it out work...and be safe?

    A mechanic at a car shop said just torch the top of the sleeve and have someone pull it with needle nose pliers at the same time.

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    That looks like it has two lips. Make sure you pack it with high temperature bearing grease between the two lips (haha)

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  • speedlimit85
    replied
    At Factory Supply Outlet , we aim to cut your MRO Spend in just a few clicks. We carry Lubriplate, Busch, 3M, and over 200 different Brands to serve your needs!


    got 2 more on way

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    I can't remember which, but in my case, I lubed the inner part of the seal with either oil or grease prior to installation.
    Last edited by bikerphil; 02-01-2024, 02:50 PM.

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    I agree with Phil that you should try to make the repair without the sleeve unless you see visual damage to the crank end. In the info I posted it required a two lip seal such as the replacement unit we are using have grease in between the two lips of the seal for proper lubrication. This perhaps could be a factor on why we have had early failures with these seals. I think these things are overheating from friction after a few hundred thousand revolutions at full engine heat.

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  • speedlimit85
    replied
    I don't think it was leaking under the sleeve but I tried to look and there is only a bit of crank after the sleeve. There is oil on the bottom half of the seal and crank. through the seal or through the sleeve or both I can't tell.

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    Well, providing you can remove the sleeve without any damage to the crank, and can find a seal that would not ride in the groove, I would try it first without the sleeve. If that fails, you could always install another sleeve.

    Could you tell if the oil was leaking from underneath the sleeve?
    Last edited by bikerphil; 02-01-2024, 11:15 AM.

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  • speedlimit85
    replied
    I got a points file and a scratch awl. I am preparing to remove the sleave.

    Another sleave ?...or a different seal with say 7 mm depth so the lip would be sliding on a new groove?

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