oil on the good foot

[bikerphil]

Yep, you can.

[speedlimit85]

Did we eliminate the valves and timing as the culprit? I want to put it back together before taking more things apart. I have a gasket for the valve cover here. I can do the ACCT and all later. I want to fix this first.

[bikerphil]

Well, you need to keep checking things until you find the culprit. The P/U coils were taken on and off several times when you were doing the oil seal and sleeve, so it would make most sense to double check them so they can be eliminated from the cause.

[DiverRay]

You can buy an Ohm meter for less than $20 that will be yours. Lowe's, Home Depot, Harbor Freight all have Digital Volt/Ohm meters for under $20. It is a tool you will need.

[speedlimit85]

So the compression might be good. The timing and valves look good. The NOS pick up coils were good for a month - but that's where I was so makes sense that's what stopped working right.

I can borrow an OHM meter and learn to use it.

[bikerphil]

If you want, they will loan you a gauge at Autozone or O'reilly , just need to give them a deposit. Just set the valve cover back on, no bolts or gasket, you're not running the engine.

[speedlimit85]

I borrowed the gauge. I could test the compression with the owner who would know, but not with the valve cover off.

[bikerphil]

I suspect the gauge is faulty, try a different one if possible. I myself would focus on the areas of the bike you were working on, such as the P/U coil wiring. That would cause the bike to pop and run like crap with an intermittent connection. Check even as far up as the connector on the TCI.

There is an easy ohm meter test at the TCI, just test pairs of wires in the 4 wire connector, both pairs should read about 720 ohms.

I don't know what would cause all 4 cylinders to drop to 90 compression, sure you were reading the gauge correctly, in in/lb?

[speedlimit85]

Maybe I had nothing to do with it. Assuming I did the compression test right, I got 90 on all 4 that should be 140. What can cause these bikes to run good then drop to low compression?

[speedlimit85]

That would be nice if it were that easy. I have gas in the tank.

I was riding 100 mi a day last week. When replacing the seal i let it sit 2 full days this time. I removed all the left cover to get to the seal, replaced it and adjusted the timing.

At first it ran good then bogged down backfired and got worse. First I thought the carbs then the pick-up coils then that I broke something.

[bikerphil]

Well it won't hurt the motor to turn it backwards, you would need to do that anyway when doing a valve shim adjustment, so I doubt you did any damage doing that. Time to start looking at other things. I am out of ideas at the moment.

Maybe you are out of gas. Time to look at simple. things.

[speedlimit85]

So I didn't destroy the bike but don't know what's broken.

What had happened was I overtightened the hex bolt on the reluctor plate with the torque wrench at the wrong number. I stopped before breaking anything and loosened the bolt to start over with the right torque. While loosening the hex I forgot to hold the reluctor with a wrench to prevent it from turning the motor backwards( I remember reading never turn the motor backward not even a little).
I installed the governer and started the motor for a moment- seemed okay so I moved it to the C-mark and did the chain adjust. Then I rode it a bit and the motor bogged less than 1/4 mi turned around. Here we are.

[bikerphil]

Ok, that wasn't the issue, it can now be eliminated. As for the nick, if it is preventing the unit to fully seat, I would file it down so it doesn't interfere.

[speedlimit85]

There is a small nick in the mechanical advance

[bikerphil]

The chain did not skip teeth if all the marks line up as they did.

Yeah, I would double check that mechanical advance, I've made that mistake myself before. That would throw off the alignment of the timing plate I believe.

Also looks like your timing needs advancing a little by rotating the base plate CCW a little.