oil on the good foot

[bikerphil]

Well, if you did bend a valve, you would probably hear a popping sound thru the exhaust or a carb, depending on which valve is bent. Now if you skipped a tooth on the cam chain, that may affect high end performance, IDK. Unfortunately, the only way to verify if the cam timing is correct is to remove the valve cover. I don't see what the carb would have to do with anything, you didn't touch them while doing your oil seal. It's OK to turn the engine backwards some with the wrench, providing you didtn't do it with the cam chain adjuster loose.

[speedlimit85]

I may have broke something. I went backward a bit with the bolt- timing plate forgot to hold the wrench to keep it always clockwise. When I started the bike, it seemed fine so I did the cam chain adjust cause I was there ( like I have many times torch back with the inch lb).
I started the bike again goin for a short test works fine then boggs down at 4000 rpm.

Can a bent valve do this? Is it the governer assembly? carb?

I tightened the bolt too much the torch is 14.5 ft lb or 174 in lb. I had set the wrench to a huge number for the roter-other side and forgot to check.

Now its not right. That bolt for the timing plate won't click withe the right torch after I tightened too much and it t looks wrong when started with cover off

[bikerphil]

Looks good, third time's a charm. <fingers crossed>

[speedlimit85]

[bikerphil]

Looks like you're on the right track, good luck with the install.

[speedlimit85]

Looks clearly leaking from the shaft and seal and nowhere else. You can sorta see the groove. This is the right part-size and depth look right.

[speedlimit85]

I was told to put it in the oven at 200 degrees and then install on a cold morning. And not to pry with plyers- instead to hit the flange with a small cold chisel all the way around to remove ( but once I'm in there -do what works...)

Looks like the flange needs to be cut a bit before installing to create a start point if pliers are used. If the shaft has a taper it will be easier to start- if the same diameter it needs to be hit in a lot.

[bikerphil]

Sounds easy enough.

After watching a couple of YouTube videos, I can see why it may need to be installed backwards. The flange removal may be difficult or impossible with it being on the inboard side, not enough room for the "sardine can" action with the needle nose pliers.

[speedlimit85]

I am told to use a chisel to remove the flange, removable like a sardine can.

[bikerphil]

Taken from the Advanced Auto Parts website...

Part No. 99128

Ultra-thin construction (0.01/0.25mm wall thickness) allows original seal size to be used with minimal additional lip loading.
Easy to install with removable flange and installation tool.
Installation tool reduces sleeve distortion and allows for installation without removal from the shaft.



I was wondering how the flange is to be removed. If it says it's removable, I guess it doesn't need to be cut off.

[speedlimit85]

It's hard to tell where it's leaking from. I checked for a groove when a mechanic told me as I asked how best to install the seal. The groove is slight and the new seal may not be in the same spot and has double lip.

part # 99128 is available all over and looks easy to install, but John wrote he had to install it backward in order to remove the flange.

The breather hose feels unrestricted.

[Schming]

I have used Speedi-Sleeves a few times with great results. They get installed with red lock-tite.
If you can feel a groove with your fingernail or a pick the Speedi-Sleeve will give the new seal a new surface to ride on leak free.
Presently I have thousands of miles on my daily driver a 1996 Ford F150 5.0 that has one installed on the crankshaft through the timing cover.
Here is a link to the part # 99128 that John, in the link you provided, used.

https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/productid-99128

[bikerphil]

Well, if there is a groove in the crankshaft, that may be your problem. You could try that sleeve type seal, I guess it would work if installed properly, unfortunately I have no experience with installing those. Wouldn't hurt to check the large black breather hose near the starter. If it's restricted, the crankcase pressure could be forcing the oil out. If it doesn't leak that bad, you could leave it alone and just wipe off the bottom of the cover from time to time.

[speedlimit85]

10/40 castroll conventional oil
with added marvel mystery oil sometimes to try and fix starter clutch
55,000 mi
breather -the hose by the starter? looks ok can I remove from airbox and run bike and feel airflow?

was reading about a sleeve http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20900

any success with fixing a groove created by the seal with that? I could feel a groove in the shaft worn in by the seal.

I went 1000 mi before it leaked to my foot

[bikerphil]

Wow, that sucks. Ok, a few questions....

Are you using synthetic motor oil?
What weight oil are you using?
How many miles on your engine?
Could the crankcase breather be clogged allowing excessive pressure to build in the crankcase?