oil on the good foot

[bikerphil]

Somthing easy you could try is disconnect the vacuum hose from the advance unit and plug it. This way the wires will be stationary. It may run better like that and tell you if the problem is indeed the wires flexing.

[DiverRay]

Speedlimit85, the wire you replaced look ALMOST correct. The BIG problem I can see is there isn't a lot of room for the wires to flex as the plate moves left and right. Did you check and verify the wires will not get tight at both ends of travel? If they do, you may be able to fix it by keeping the zip ties loose, as in a 3/8" loop, and not tight to the backing plate.

[bikerphil]

No, the large bearing is right there visible, it is what the vacuum advance plate turns on. You can just spray some lubricant on it around it's outer edges and wipe the excessive away. If it is popping it could be just a vacuum leak, try checking the sync port caps on the 1+4 intake boots for cracks or being loose. Maybe even the hoses on 2+3 supplying vacuum to the fuel petcocks could be cracked.

[speedlimit85]

I replaced segments of wire. Running better but not quite right. If that large bearing is chattering, is it behind the seal deep in the motor? Or maybe I need to gap the pick up coils or check the vacuum system somehow.

[bikerphil]

Well, if you think a wire is broken causing the misfire, you need to pull on them in small segments and if one is broken, it will stretch. If the factory crimps holding them to the backing plate are still in tact, that is a common place for them to fail.

The method I use to fix the break is...

Cut a red butt connector in half with a hack saw. Use a lighter to heat and soften the insulation so it can be cut and removed easily. Now you have 2 small butt connectors. Just slip a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the wire before crimping.

[speedlimit85]

It goes back and forth and then smooth after about 2k. It is more of a pop than a hesitation and not every time. It feels like a wire is slightly intermittent. I am hesitant to splice all the 'new' wires.

[bikerphil]

As for the hesitation, with the ignition cover off, slowly rev the engine from idle up to 4K and watch the vacuum advance unit. does it operate smoothly or does it chatter? Sometimes lack of lubrication of the large bearing it moves on could cause it to be twitchy which may be related to the hesitation problem.

[speedlimit85]

Yes. The back plate, coils, intact wires. I never had all that apart before. The mechanical advance felt to move freely and the vacuum part. I spliced the 2 wires on the top coil because with the bike running pulling on those wires killed the motor.
I'm still getting a hesitation at low RPM-not sure if it's still a wire.
I used to solder them and was told that creates weak points. I used butt connectors with pieces of good wire.
And I did put the timing plate back with a scratch mark.

[bikerphil]

There is still paint on the screws. If they weren't removed don't need to gap right?

Yeah, you're probably good, sounds like you also changed the backing plate.

[LAB3]

How do you delete a bad reply? Sorry!

[speedlimit85]

There is still paint on the screws. If they weren't removed don't need to gap right?

[bikerphil]

As far as I know, there isn't anything available as far as new replacement units. Once repaired correctly, the old units should last a pretty good while.

BTW, the correct gap of the P/U coils is .027" (.7 mm).

[speedlimit85]

It runs. Oil seal not leaking. My new ebay pick up coils need repair right away. I think I did it, but I need those pick up coils to work just right. Is there a better source for replacement?

[bikerphil]

Yes, thin layer of gasket maker on the outside edge of the seal only, a little oil or grease on the inner part of the seal where the crankshaft spins.

[speedlimit85]

Yes. I didn't look at the seal only the label. I thought I was doing it wrong-was hard to install. After getting the seal out saw the numbers on seal were wrong.

I was told gasket maker-silicone on the outer part too.