oil on the good foot

[speedlimit85]

2 questions. Is that small hole at the bottom of where the seal goes supposed to be there? Am I close to a real bike mechanic yet?

[bikerphil]

Yep, if you take it apart that way, everything will come apart easy and go back together easy, just don't rotate the engine from that spot.

[speedlimit85]

I see that. There is a hole back there. Thanks.

[bikerphil]

No, look behind the timing wheel at about 9 o'clock and you will see a slot in the pickup coil plate. Rotate the wheel clockwise until the tab on the reluctor is in line with the slot.

Put the wheel in this position...



Look from the front and you will see the tab and the slot...

[speedlimit85]

Do you mean the C-mark like when I adjust the chain?

[bikerphil]

If I do the RTV repair, brake clean, then use permatex ultra gray?

Yes, that would do fine.

Before removing the center bolt on the timing plate, rotate the crankshaft so the tab on the reluctor for the P/U coils lines up with the slot on the base plate, that way the whole unit will come straight out.

[speedlimit85]

I'm studying how and what to do first. My pick up coil wires have so many splices too close to the coils, it may need to be replaced. I have one with the coils and wires intact with the connector. It looks like the two timing bolts take the whole thing out. The coils and spinning plate have 3 screws and the middle bolt.

If I do the RTV repair, brake clean, then use permatex ultra gray?

[LAB3]

Any other ways?
But first, how do I start? The timing was factory set with bolts. Mark the timing? Pliers? Hammer in screw grooves? The shop that welded my exhaust won't touch this seal.

Getting advice from someone who's "been there" is always good, get yourself a manual to back up what your heard and you should be all set!

[bikerphil]

I would try the RTV around the outer circumference of the seal first, easy to do. You will need to drill out the tamper proof bolts that hold the timing plate. Just drill the head of them off inside the metal spacer. Put a witness mark on the plate and the engine case just to the right of the top screw so timing will be the same when reassembling, Replace those tamper proof bolts with regular metric bolts and washers like in the second photo shown in the thread below...

https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...stener-is-this

[speedlimit85]

Alright. I'm gonna have to replace the seal or rtv it. Oil on pick up coils. I am told to put a sheetrock screw into the old seal and pull. Any other ways?
But first, how do I start? The timing was factory set with bolts. Mark the timing? Pliers? Hammer in screw grooves? The shop that welded my exhaust won't touch this seal.

[cajun31]

Do you know the o-ring # on the cam chain tensioner bolt?

Yamaha 93210-06632-00 - O-RING | Partzilla.com

I too would highly recommend that you replace the OEM tensioner setup with an older vmax 1200 automatic cam chain tensioner. Install it and basically forget about it for while.

[bikerphil]

Do you know the o-ring # on the cam chain tensioner bolt?

No, I'm sorry I don't, I've gotten rid of the leaky manual adjust tensioner on all my bikes long ago and upgraded to the auto adjusting type.

Anytime you fool with the cam chain tensioner, be aware the cam chain may skip out of time damaging the engine if you don't do everything exactly right.

[speedlimit85]

Do you know the o-ring # on the cam chain tensioner bolt?

[bikerphil]

There is one more thing you could try (if you are up for it) before digging out the old seal. If you remove the ignition cover and all the components, you will be looking at the seal. You will notice that the seal has actually shrunk and there is oil around the outside of the seal. Often it is actually leaking around the outer circumference and not the inner part. You can spritz some brake cleaner all around the outside edge to clean the oil away and smear a thin layer of RTV gasket maker around it covering the gap. Overlap it from on the seal itself to the aluminum case, it doesn't have to be pretty. Let it cure overnight. Reassemble the ignition components and hope for the best. I have had success on several bikes with this procedure on both (left and right) crankshaft seals and it has lasted many years before eventually leaking from the center area of the seal.

Good luck on whichever repair you end up doing.

[speedlimit85]

You just saved me money and time, but it's the seal.