oil on the good foot

[bikerphil]

Oil on the bad foot? The seal for the right side is a different size as you know. You will need a 16MM 1.5 pitch bolt at least 50 MM long to remove the alternator rotor. An impact gun makes it a snap, otherwise you will have to somehow hold the rotor from spinning with a large strong screwdriver. On this seal when installing, the seal can only be driven in far enough so it is flush with the outside of the case. One half of the case is deeper than the other so it will end up crooked if you try to send it all the way home. After you get the old seal out and look in there you will see what I mean. It helps to have an extra seal on hand just in case you drive it too far because you will ruin it trying to get it out.

BTW, the right side has an o ring plug that could also be the cause of the leak.

[speedlimit85]

Woah. That's a lot. I will try the o-ring first.

[bikerphil]

Yep, here is the Yamaha o ring part #...

https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/p...3361-00/o-ring
It's #46 on the parts fiche...

https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a...70da/crankcase

[speedlimit85]

I got the o-ring. Where does it go? The other side has a bolt below the cover.

Do you replace the seal with an OEM part or 32x45x8 with a double lip from oringsandmore.com ?

And how do you use the bolt?

[bikerphil]

The o ring goes on the plug under the right side cover. Pull the plug straight out with a pliers. It is a super special size o ring unlike the one on the left side.



Yes, the 32x45x8 double lip is correct, better order an extra one just in case.

As for removing the rotor, first remove the bolt that holds the rotor on. Then take the 16mm bolt and thread it into the threads on the rotor. Put a little oil on the threads first. Tighten the bolt down until the rotor pops off. When re-installing the rotor, just tighten it down to spec (47 ft-lb) with the original bolt.

BTW, do not remove the 3 center bolts on the alternator cover, just the 5 around the outer edge. Also, do not run the engine with the alternator cover off. It is the only thing holding that plug in, otherwise the oil pressure will shoot the plug across the shop and there will be oil everywhere.

[speedlimit85]

That is very clear and helpful. I got the o-ring from a local dealer with the part number. I will replace the o-ring first, but it is probably the seal so I'm getting ready.

[speedlimit85]

Replaced the o-ring. May have stopped the leak, time will tell...

Really should replace the cover gasket now...

I can borrow an impact wrench if needed.

[bikerphil]

Hopefully it was just the O-ring. Yes, an impact gun will make life sooooo much easier for alternator rotor removal.

[speedlimit85]

Well, it's leaking again on the good foot -left side. What can I do better? different permatex? let it cure longer? clean the oil residue with more than break cleaner?

[bikerphil]

Wow, that sucks. Ok, a few questions....

Are you using synthetic motor oil?
What weight oil are you using?
How many miles on your engine?
Could the crankcase breather be clogged allowing excessive pressure to build in the crankcase?

[speedlimit85]

10/40 castroll conventional oil
with added marvel mystery oil sometimes to try and fix starter clutch
55,000 mi
breather -the hose by the starter? looks ok can I remove from airbox and run bike and feel airflow?

was reading about a sleeve http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20900

any success with fixing a groove created by the seal with that? I could feel a groove in the shaft worn in by the seal.

I went 1000 mi before it leaked to my foot

[bikerphil]

Well, if there is a groove in the crankshaft, that may be your problem. You could try that sleeve type seal, I guess it would work if installed properly, unfortunately I have no experience with installing those. Wouldn't hurt to check the large black breather hose near the starter. If it's restricted, the crankcase pressure could be forcing the oil out. If it doesn't leak that bad, you could leave it alone and just wipe off the bottom of the cover from time to time.

[Schming]

I have used Speedi-Sleeves a few times with great results. They get installed with red lock-tite.
If you can feel a groove with your fingernail or a pick the Speedi-Sleeve will give the new seal a new surface to ride on leak free.
Presently I have thousands of miles on my daily driver a 1996 Ford F150 5.0 that has one installed on the crankshaft through the timing cover.
Here is a link to the part # 99128 that John, in the link you provided, used.
https://www.skf.com/us/products/indu...roductid-99128

[speedlimit85]

It's hard to tell where it's leaking from. I checked for a groove when a mechanic told me as I asked how best to install the seal. The groove is slight and the new seal may not be in the same spot and has double lip.

part # 99128 is available all over and looks easy to install, but John wrote he had to install it backward in order to remove the flange.

The breather hose feels unrestricted.

[bikerphil]

Taken from the Advanced Auto Parts website...

Part No. 99128

Ultra-thin construction (0.01/0.25mm wall thickness) allows original seal size to be used with minimal additional lip loading.
Easy to install with removable flange and installation tool.
Installation tool reduces sleeve distortion and allows for installation without removal from the shaft.



I was wondering how the flange is to be removed. If it says it's removable, I guess it doesn't need to be cut off.