oil on the good foot

[bikerphil]

There is still paint on the screws. If they weren't removed don't need to gap right?

Yeah, you're probably good, sounds like you also changed the backing plate.

[speedlimit85]

Yes. The back plate, coils, intact wires. I never had all that apart before. The mechanical advance felt to move freely and the vacuum part. I spliced the 2 wires on the top coil because with the bike running pulling on those wires killed the motor.
I'm still getting a hesitation at low RPM-not sure if it's still a wire.
I used to solder them and was told that creates weak points. I used butt connectors with pieces of good wire.
And I did put the timing plate back with a scratch mark.

[bikerphil]

As for the hesitation, with the ignition cover off, slowly rev the engine from idle up to 4K and watch the vacuum advance unit. does it operate smoothly or does it chatter? Sometimes lack of lubrication of the large bearing it moves on could cause it to be twitchy which may be related to the hesitation problem.

[speedlimit85]

It goes back and forth and then smooth after about 2k. It is more of a pop than a hesitation and not every time. It feels like a wire is slightly intermittent. I am hesitant to splice all the 'new' wires.

[bikerphil]

Well, if you think a wire is broken causing the misfire, you need to pull on them in small segments and if one is broken, it will stretch. If the factory crimps holding them to the backing plate are still in tact, that is a common place for them to fail.

The method I use to fix the break is...

Cut a red butt connector in half with a hack saw. Use a lighter to heat and soften the insulation so it can be cut and removed easily. Now you have 2 small butt connectors. Just slip a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the wire before crimping.

[speedlimit85]

I replaced segments of wire. Running better but not quite right. If that large bearing is chattering, is it behind the seal deep in the motor? Or maybe I need to gap the pick up coils or check the vacuum system somehow.

[bikerphil]

No, the large bearing is right there visible, it is what the vacuum advance plate turns on. You can just spray some lubricant on it around it's outer edges and wipe the excessive away. If it is popping it could be just a vacuum leak, try checking the sync port caps on the 1+4 intake boots for cracks or being loose. Maybe even the hoses on 2+3 supplying vacuum to the fuel petcocks could be cracked.

[DiverRay]

Speedlimit85, the wire you replaced look ALMOST correct. The BIG problem I can see is there isn't a lot of room for the wires to flex as the plate moves left and right. Did you check and verify the wires will not get tight at both ends of travel? If they do, you may be able to fix it by keeping the zip ties loose, as in a 3/8" loop, and not tight to the backing plate.

[bikerphil]

Somthing easy you could try is disconnect the vacuum hose from the advance unit and plug it. This way the wires will be stationary. It may run better like that and tell you if the problem is indeed the wires flexing.

[speedlimit85]

No, the large bearing is right there visible, it is what the vacuum advance plate turns on. You can just spray some lubricant on it around it's outer edges and wipe the excessive away. If it is popping it could be just a vacuum leak, try checking the sync port caps on the 1+4 intake boots for cracks or being loose. Maybe even the hoses on 2+3 supplying vacuum to the fuel petcocks could be cracked.

The large bearing is the mechanical advance or the timing plate?

I replaced the vacuum hoses on 2-3 and the sync port caps on the intake boots.

I also replaced the p/u coils with NOS.

Bike is running better than ever most of the time.

Also turned the idle up to 1 1/4 (1000) rpm... feels like idle screw is all the way opened.

And replaced the float bowl assembly.

[bikerphil]

This is the bearing right here. You can spray some penetrating oil on this gap in several places around the clock to ensure smooth travel. Wipe the excess away. Nice that you found some NOS P/U coils.

[speedlimit85]

I still have a intermittent miss or rumble drop in power at 2-3 rpm. I just tightened the straps on the rubber boots thinking some air was coming out sometimes- no change.

Can the vacuum pod or the mechanical advance stick some of the tome causing these symptoms?

[bikerphil]

Can the vacuum pod or the mechanical advance stick some of the tome causing these symptoms?

Maybe. The only way the mechanical advance can get stuck is if the springs actually broke. The vacuum advance I've never seen get stuck before. You know, ignition and carb problems can have similar symptoms. You may want to start looking into the fuel side of the problem. What does the color of the spark plugs look like? Blackish plugs may tell you what cylinder(s) is having the problem.

[speedlimit85]

The plugs look good. I would have seen a broken spring on the mechanical advance. The exhaust was welded back together months ago. could that have changed the air flow?

The problem is subtle and not constant, but I should be able to get it running right.

Carbs and pick up wires problems are so similar, it feels like the electrical is usually less constant than the gas or air.

When starting the bike cold with the choke on, there is some popping and not running completely right. Some of that is normal right? But it seems more than usual.

I got no more oil on the good foot and I can take all that apart again now that I know how.

[bikerphil]

It should actually run better after repairing the exhaust one would think.
Yeah, the bike may not run very smooth with the "choke" on, it really shouldn't be popping though.
Have you run a fuel treatment in the gas lately such as seafoam? May be a good idea, couldn't hurt.