oil on the good foot

[bikerphil]

I would try the RTV around the outer circumference of the seal first, easy to do. You will need to drill out the tamper proof bolts that hold the timing plate. Just drill the head of them off inside the metal spacer. Put a witness mark on the plate and the engine case just to the right of the top screw so timing will be the same when reassembling, Replace those tamper proof bolts with regular metric bolts and washers like in the second photo shown in the thread below...

https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...stener-is-this

[LAB3]

Any other ways?
But first, how do I start? The timing was factory set with bolts. Mark the timing? Pliers? Hammer in screw grooves? The shop that welded my exhaust won't touch this seal.

Getting advice from someone who's "been there" is always good, get yourself a manual to back up what your heard and you should be all set!

[speedlimit85]

I'm studying how and what to do first. My pick up coil wires have so many splices too close to the coils, it may need to be replaced. I have one with the coils and wires intact with the connector. It looks like the two timing bolts take the whole thing out. The coils and spinning plate have 3 screws and the middle bolt.

If I do the RTV repair, brake clean, then use permatex ultra gray?

[bikerphil]

If I do the RTV repair, brake clean, then use permatex ultra gray?

Yes, that would do fine.

Before removing the center bolt on the timing plate, rotate the crankshaft so the tab on the reluctor for the P/U coils lines up with the slot on the base plate, that way the whole unit will come straight out.

[speedlimit85]

Do you mean the C-mark like when I adjust the chain?

[bikerphil]

No, look behind the timing wheel at about 9 o'clock and you will see a slot in the pickup coil plate. Rotate the wheel clockwise until the tab on the reluctor is in line with the slot.

Put the wheel in this position...



Look from the front and you will see the tab and the slot...

[speedlimit85]

I see that. There is a hole back there. Thanks.

[bikerphil]

Yep, if you take it apart that way, everything will come apart easy and go back together easy, just don't rotate the engine from that spot.

[speedlimit85]

2 questions. Is that small hole at the bottom of where the seal goes supposed to be there? Am I close to a real bike mechanic yet?

[speedlimit85]

This is the wrong one. The dealer shop gave me the wrong one.

[cajun31]

By now you obviously know that the seal you need in no longer available from Yamaha. I was looking through some old posts and found this from BA80 better known as Greg. Don't see him too much around here lately but he did advise someone to order this part number some years ago. It may still be available. Can't hurt to try.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TMK-32X48X8/

Phil may remember the post and thread on the old com site.

[cajun31]

Check out the thread from the old site. Oil Seal - XS11.com Forums

[bikerphil]

2 questions. Is that small hole at the bottom of where the seal goes supposed to be there? Am I close to a real bike mechanic yet?

1. Yes that oil drain hole is supposed to be there, I just checked my spare engine case and it has it too.
2. After you finish the job and everything is all good, then yes, you will then be a real bike mechanic.

Take that wrong size seal to a local bearing shop and tell them you need one with a 48MM outer diameter with all the other dimensions being the same (32X48X8). That one you have there is probably 45MM and for the other side of the bike.

If you can't find one anywhere, I have a few extra new ones, I could send you one.

[speedlimit85]

Partzilla has the same part # for both sides. Thanks man, I will look tomorrow.

[speedlimit85]

Ready with replaced pick up coils...