I am told to use a chisel to remove the flange, removable like a sardine can.
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Sounds easy enough.
After watching a couple of YouTube videos, I can see why it may need to be installed backwards. The flange removal may be difficult or impossible with it being on the inboard side, not enough room for the "sardine can" action with the needle nose pliers.Last edited by bikerphil; 10-06-2022, 06:31 AM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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I was told to put it in the oven at 200 degrees and then install on a cold morning. And not to pry with plyers- instead to hit the flange with a small cold chisel all the way around to remove ( but once I'm in there -do what works...)
Looks like the flange needs to be cut a bit before installing to create a start point if pliers are used. If the shaft has a taper it will be easier to start- if the same diameter it needs to be hit in a lot.
80 G
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I may have broke something. I went backward a bit with the bolt- timing plate forgot to hold the wrench to keep it always clockwise. When I started the bike, it seemed fine so I did the cam chain adjust cause I was there ( like I have many times torch back with the inch lb).
I started the bike again goin for a short test works fine then boggs down at 4000 rpm.
Can a bent valve do this? Is it the governer assembly? carb?
I tightened the bolt too much the torch is 14.5 ft lb or 174 in lb. I had set the wrench to a huge number for the roter-other side and forgot to check.
Now its not right. That bolt for the timing plate won't click withe the right torch after I tightened too much and it t looks wrong when started with cover offLast edited by speedlimit85; 10-10-2022, 10:12 AM.80 G
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Well, if you did bend a valve, you would probably hear a popping sound thru the exhaust or a carb, depending on which valve is bent. Now if you skipped a tooth on the cam chain, that may affect high end performance, IDK. Unfortunately, the only way to verify if the cam timing is correct is to remove the valve cover. I don't see what the carb would have to do with anything, you didn't touch them while doing your oil seal. It's OK to turn the engine backwards some with the wrench, providing you didtn't do it with the cam chain adjuster loose.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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I did NOT turn the motor with the cam chain adjuster loose. But something is not right. I am getting popping. So I may have bent a valve.
What can I do now?
So the overtightened bolt on the timing plate probably did not break anything but when I loosened it to torque it right and turned the motor backward it bent a valve....Last edited by speedlimit85; 10-10-2022, 10:33 AM.80 G
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I would compression check all 4 cylinders. If one or more is way off from the rest, valve(s) is probably bent. Do it with the throttle wide open. If they are all equal, then it is probably something else.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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Originally posted by speedlimit85 View Post
So the overtightened bolt on the timing plate probably did not break anything but when I loosened it to torque it right and turned the motor backward it bent a valve....2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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Now may be the time for the ACCT mod.
From left to right: 40 60 90 90 drop to 0. I have bad compression. Everytime it runs worse.
I had the cover off to change the valve cover gasket last year. Is that where I need to go next?
When reinstalling the timing plate it could go on 2 ways 180 off or right.
If it was- is 180 off then the C-mark was not in the right place when the chain was adjusted.
That could be what happened.Last edited by speedlimit85; 10-10-2022, 01:02 PM.80 G
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Are you checking the compression with the throttle wide open as BikerPhil mentioned in the above post? If not, your readings will be off.Bob's Bikes:
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