Mystery Carbs

[jetmechmarty]

Yeah. Another job I don't want to do and told him that. I believe this seal will work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/317124386392

I just did it and it was easy. It did lead to me messing with pickup coil wires which was more time consuming.

[autotech44]

I just did it and it was easy. It did lead to me messing with pickup coil wires which was more time consuming.

Did you use this seal? https://www.ebay.com/itm/317124386392

[cajun31]

Might want to give this a read. Everything you need to know about that seal and replacing it. oil on the good foot - XS11.club Forums

[DEEBS11]

Specifically here:

https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-forum/xs11-xj11-discussion/868577-oil-on-the-good-foot/page19

Only use a Viton seal. If the seal surface it pitted (it probably is!) you will need a surface sleeve.

[autotech44]

The Dynojet kit says IM screw 4 turns out. Anyone install one and know where you ended up. 4 turns feels like it's not even touching the spring.

[cajun31]

What jetting did you finalize on or have you yet? 4 turns seems excessive. Will be rich unless you went down in size on the pilot jets. I have never fooled with a Dynojet kit on these bikes Never really saw a need for it if the proper guidelines outlined in the carb section of our maintenance tips. Not saying those kits don't have their applications, but from what I have read they are more geared to racing. Most folks end up with them, and this is only my opinion, because they think that is going to be a solution for other things they don't understand about CV carbs. Why I asked early on in this thread if you had the original parts available to you. I know, you are just dealing with what you have and trying to help a friend. I only point these things out for other reading along so they can decide for themselves whether those kits are worth the bother. I am sure you already know that most times it is recommended to lightly seat the screws and then start at about 2.5 turns out. Synchronize the carbs then fine tune from there. If getting them tuned from there is not possible then it is time to think about different size jets depending on what you discover in the fine tuning stage.

Keeping in mind that everything else is ok. Meaning no shaft seal or manifold leaks etc...

Were the slides and main jet needles altered and installed from the kit? I went out and looked up the instructions for the kit and just like you stated it says to start at 4 turns out. Still seems like a lot but I guess at this point you don't have anything to lose by trying that as a starting point.

[cajun31]

I am posting the dynojet instructions E4101-Installation-Guide.pdf. I am assuming at this point that you are dealing with the Stage 3 kit? Even the Stage 1 kit says 4 turns out from lightly seated.

[autotech44]

I'll start there and see where it stumbles when I screw in.

[DEEBS11]

That must be a typo. 4 turns out is not right. The needle would not even be needed at that point. Might as well install a bolt.

[autotech44]

Dynojet uses the small instead of OEM big mains?

[bikerphil]

Yes, and the numbering system is also different between Mikuni and Dynojet.

[autotech44]

Yes, and the numbering system is also different between Mikuni and Dynojet.

Yes. I have a conversion chart. 138 is about a 130 Mikuni.

[Larrym]

I have never fooled with a Dynojet kit on these bikes Never really saw a need for it if the proper guidelines outlined in the carb section of our maintenance tips. Not saying those kits don't have their applications, but from what I have read they are more geared to racing. Most folks end up with them, and this is only my opinion, because they think that is going to be a solution for other things they don't understand about CV carbs.

Same here... Dynojet kit in this situation is a real head scratcher... (⊙.☉)7

I mean... seen instances where the owner was a real mechanic/tech and put one in so's he could eek out every bit of raw HP on a real Dyno like he's buildin' a genuine Street Fighter. (ง'̀-'́)ง

But if/when the bike idles/runs like it's s'posed to? (O_o)

At a traffic light you'll get to the head of the pack just by letting out the clutch all normal like and just running thru the gears. (◠﹏◠)

I'm leaning pretty heavy into the "because they think that is going to be a solution for other things they don't understand" like Cajun 31 says. ¯\_(⊙︿⊙)_/¯

Kit was IMO just one of the many "Hail Mary" actions out there to get a bike that simply was NOT running right due to a simple fuel level issue-

Remove the airbox to give it mOaR air cuz the plugs say it's running too rich. (°_o)

Install different Main/Idle fuel Jets and after raising/lowering the main emulsion tube needles don't worky then swap out with different tapered needles. (❂‿❂)

Replace all the intake manifold boots JUST to rule out a possible vacuum leak. (´ ･_･`)

Upgrade the ignition coils from the Nippon Denso OEM (#1 world leader in coils....STILL) to aftermarket coils with Arc Welder type voltages/sparks to actually try to Ignite that overly rich mixture. (●´⌓`●)

List goes on and ON as the owner grasps a more straws and digs the hole deeper. (っ˘̩╭╮˘̩)っ

Sadly... owners current and previous ain't really Bad Guys. (´･Ω･｀)

Imma following along and have my fingers crossed for the OP. (　´∀｀)b

[autotech44]

The service manual I'm looking at is for an XS1100E with the supplement for the XS1100LH. Float height for the E is 24.7-26.7mm, and the LH supplement shows only fuel level, not float height. I read somewhere that the earlier models went from 24.7-26.7mm height to about 23mm for '80-'81, but I don't see that anywhere in the supplement. I just want to be as accurate as possible to avoid pulling bowls and messing with the levels. Should I go 26 or 23mm?

[bikerphil]

23MM for plastic floats, 25.7MM (1") for brass floats. Later carbs use plastic floats.