oil on the good foot

[DEEBS11]

That looks like it has two lips. Make sure you pack it with high temperature bearing grease between the two lips (haha)

[speedlimit85]

Can Torching the sleeve to pull it out work...and be safe?

A mechanic at a car shop said just torch the top of the sleeve and have someone pull it with needle nose pliers at the same time.

[bikerphil]

You should be OK doing that, just go easy, I wouldn't go so far as getting it cherry red.

[DEEBS11]

Heat should do it. You could try to start with a good heat gun and if that doesn't work a little propane with a pencil tip. Map gas might be too hot. Just be gentle with the pliers.

[speedlimit85]

Got the sleeve out. Crank looks good.

[DEEBS11]

Nice! Looks good!

[speedlimit85]

I tried a seal without silicone and it leaked right away.

Now got the other single lip with high temp grease on both sides of the lip and silicone on the outer edge.

I was able to push the seal most of the way in with my thumbs since the bike hadn't cooled all the way.

The crank is wider in toward the bike like it bellows or the opposite of a bevel. A design to ensure the seal works? The lip of the seal is against the surface of the metal around the shaft and on the back edge.

The sleeve had conformed to this shape reflecting and has a groove from the seal.

I believe this means the seal needs to be as far in as possible to seat right.

[speedlimit85]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204307722555

the original seal

is it possible to shave off the part that went in the cases and use this one?

[DEEBS11]

That would probably ruin the seal radial surface that touches the case.

[DEEBS11]

However, that seal would work if you pulled the engine & split the cases. The head would have to point down onto a work bench and try to remove the lower case. The crank would then have to be lifted slightly in order to slip the stock seal on (both sides). Might require unbolting the connecting rods for clearance. I did this once to a Honda Nighthawk motor to replace the alternator chain. Pulling the XS11 motor out is really not that difficult. I have done a few. Maybe it's time to fix it correctly the hard way.

[DEEBS11]

Check this XJ1100 guy. He did what we did but never follows up on what happened. No part 3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMHnk8aHzyE


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MasE5xGaEC0

[DEEBS11]

Here is one that shows the cases split. You can clearly see the seals on the crank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1qO7yNJL1U

[DEEBS11]

This is good too. I would try to do this without removing the head or the cylinders. Just the cam chain tensioner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Fj83JafQ8Y

[speedlimit85]

After it set overnight, got it back together, runs great - need to put miles and see if it is sealing. new seal 65,100 mi

I'm trying to cancel the order for the 7mm seals- I don't think it'll work.

Might get more https://www.oringsandmore.com/metric...-ref-cr563065/

Working on Phil's bike and on mine it was for a while...

[speedlimit85]

I was talking to a mechanic friend about the difference between viton and buna rubber seals for the crankshaft. His opinion is buna is better for this and that's the one Phil has working. I got 500 mi with a dry foot with the viton seal but if needed, the buna is a better replacement.

The original split case may not work if the seal sat on a shelf for 30 yrs- one on ebay had a manufacture date of 1987.