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  • #61
    Interesting......I would like to know what the difference is.
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

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    • #62
      Originally posted by BA80 View Post
      Interesting......I would like to know what the difference is.
      Greg, these things look to be sand-cast, and all I can figure is their quality control on the molds isn't too good...
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
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      Other current bikes:
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      • #63
        Quick questiong guys if I may

        I still cant figure out why, as the engine wears, the valve clearance decreases?

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        • #64
          As you run the engine the valve slams against the seat, each time it wears on the seat going in a little more each time. In turn it raises the bucket a little more which closes the gap between the lobe and the shim.
          Ty

          78 XS1100E - Now in Minnesota
          80 XS1100LG - The Punisher
          82 XJ1100 - Current project - The Twins
          82 XJ1100 - Wife's Bike - The Twins
          82 XJ1100 - Daughter's Bike
          72 Suzuki TS125 - Daughter's Bike
          72 Yamaha Mini JT2 - Youngest Daughter's bike (She wants a bigger one now)

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          • #65
            i have a question about measuring the gap.

            In the beginning, I measured the gap whenever the pointy part of the lobe isn't touching the shim. So, for some valves, the pointy part is facing exactly opposite away from the valve (so, 180 degrees), while some are just facing "90 degrees away." Then I did my calculation and replaced with new shims. Now, after the replacement, i re-measured and found out quite a few valves didn't come out as expected / within spec, i double checked the math and it still didn't make sense.

            So, after fiddling a while, I find out the lobe has tighter clearance when it is just pass touching the valve shim, and the clearance/gap increases as i turn the crankcraft and the pointy part is "180 degree away." The gap then reduces as it is pass the 180 degree spot, and getting closer back to touching the valve shim.

            So I suppose the fatter side of the lobe is not a perfect circle then?

            and I should use the LARGEST clearance number as base right?

            79 XS11

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            • #66
              Correct, the cam lobe is not circular until it gets elongated. And yes, you want to measure the clearance when the gap is the largest, or with the lobe at 180 deg from the valve. You do not need to be overly fussy about being EXACTLY 180. But you do want it to be close.
              Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

              When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

              81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
              80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


              Previously owned
              93 GSX600F
              80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
              81 XS1100 Special
              81 CB750 C
              80 CB750 C
              78 XS750

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              • #67
                thanks again DGXSER...
                79 XS11

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                • #68
                  If I get a new valve cover gasket, can you remove and reinstall the valve cover multiple times, or is the valve cover gasket only good for 1 or 2 times?

                  What about the camshaft plugs? Do they need to be replaced when you pull the valve cover?
                  Guy

                  1980 XS1100G - Frankenstein - resurrected from the impound lot
                  1991 Suzuki GS500E (not running yet)
                  2003 Burgman AN400 - Blue Belle
                  2005 Burgman AN400 - Silver Belle

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                  • #69
                    Could use rtv and not waste time with the gasket. Cam plugs can just stay there. Don't remove them, if you do put a good layer of rtv on them before reinstal.
                    Nathan
                    KD9ARL

                    μολὼν λαβέ

                    1978 XS1100E
                    K&N Filter
                    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                    OEM Exhaust
                    ATK Fork Brace
                    LED Dash lights
                    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                    Green Monster Coils
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                    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

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                    • #70
                      If you spray the new gasket with Pam cooking spray, you can remove it and use it over again. The cam plugs can be re-used, just put a bead of RTV around all edges when installing. I myself just use RTV and no gasket.
                      2H7 (79) owned since '89
                      3H3 owned since '06

                      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Petersg_99 View Post
                        If I get a new valve cover gasket, can you remove and reinstall the valve cover multiple times, or is the valve cover gasket only good for 1 or 2 times?

                        What about the camshaft plugs? Do they need to be replaced when you pull the valve cover?
                        The camshaft plugs should be good for years. (as long as they don't get damaged/nicked, etc.)
                        Some/most don't use a valve cover gasket, they use yamabond or some other RTV that they like.
                        I've reused my gasket quite a few times, but the hard spot with that is the gasket gets brittle and may break, thus creating a leak at that location.
                        Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

                        80G (Green paint(PO idea))
                        The Green Monster
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                        81H (previously CPMaynard's)
                        Hugo
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                        • #72
                          Pam

                          Pam's the way to go if your not using RTV. You'll probaly never have to buy another gasket as long as your careful about hooking them on something while removing them.
                          mack
                          79 XS 1100 SF Special
                          HERMES
                          original owner
                          http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

                          81 XS 1100 LH MNS
                          SPICA
                          http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

                          78 XS 11E
                          IOTA
                          https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
                          https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



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                          • #73
                            Originally posted by mack View Post
                            Pam's the way to go if your not using RTV
                            Yep, and the engine smells like a pizza parlor for a few hundred miles, lol.
                            2H7 (79) owned since '89
                            3H3 owned since '06

                            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                            • #74
                              Are the little tabs on the sprocket bolt holes mentioned in Clymer's? I noticed them, but didn't know their importance...now I have to go check, dammit!
                              "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

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                              • #75
                                Since we've officially hijacked the thread...I use a doubled over zip tie to slightly hold the valve open then pull the shim. I feed the zip tie thru the spark plug hole between the open valve and seat and rotate the engine to close the valve. Costs about 25 cents and is super easy. I've used this method on Suzuki GS (8 valve) and my XS.
                                US Army 1986-1991

                                1979 1100 Special (on the road after 16 years!)
                                1983 GS300L (wifes ride)
                                1985 Super Glide
                                2012 Super Glide

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