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Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
Like I said the MP tool works for me. It is just a bit more finicky to use and the other was easier. But I did not have to grind any off the MP to use it either.
2-79 XS1100 SF 2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever 80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
2-79 XS1100 SF 2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever 80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!
I haven't done anything with mine yet, as I have yet to use it. I did look at using it when I did the valves on the SG, and it appeared to me that mine needing grinding in two places; a bit like shown on the one in the link, but also on the inside curve as mine looks 'fat' through there; I believe that's where Phil had to grind his. It certainly wouldn't fit as-is...
I may go ahead and mod it to fit, then post another tutorial using the MP tool before I button-up the motor I'm working on. It's winter, I don't have anything better to do...
If so it must have been installed incorrectly. Mine never came close to the cam unless the engine was rotated in the wrong direction then it interfered with the cam lobe.
Not being a smart a$$, I'm just really interested. I have never had a problem and I'm just curious.
Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
If so it must have been installed incorrectly. Mine never came close to the cam unless the engine was rotated in the wrong direction then it interfered with the cam lobe.
Not being a smart a$$, I'm just really interested. I have never had a problem and I'm just curious.
Mine MP is close to the cam but does not touch. It is fatter there than the yamaha one, but does clear with no issues. As Greg said I am interested in knowing as well.
2-79 XS1100 SF 2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever 80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!
I didn't have any problems with it contacting the camshafts. Mine just wouldn't push the cam buckets down far enough to provdie enough clearance to remove the shims. Grinding on the bottom face, the surface that would contact the cylinder head, allowed the tool to sit lower and push the bucket down further.
Brian
1978E Midlife Crisis - A work in progress
1984 Kawasaki 550 Ltd - Gone, but not forgotten
A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people
remembering the same thing!
I know there were some changes in head castings over the years, dont know if that matters, mine is OEM 79SF, it takes some getting used to, but works fine once you only open the valve 1/4" or less
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
I didn't have any problems with it contacting the camshafts. Mine just wouldn't push the cam buckets down far enough to provdie enough clearance to remove the shims. Grinding on the bottom face, the surface that would contact the cylinder head, allowed the tool to sit lower and push the bucket down further.
It's not supposed to "push" the bucket down, it's supposed to "hold" the bucket down.
Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
I use the motion pro tool too to do my shims did take me a while as i had to adjust all 8. The first time i used it i thought there was something wrong but it turned out to be just the operator.
Yesterday I shimmed 5 of 8 on my SF, one exhaust and all on the intake. I got lucky having several of the needed shims from my KZ900 parts laying around. I used DGSXER's method of removing the CCT and loosening the cam caps, as well as Steve's tips. I think petejw's suggestion of just loosening the CCT may have been a good way to go too.
As for the MP tool, I guess maybe I was using the tool incorrectly. The KZ shim tool, which works great (on Z engines), actually depresses the bucket, which is what I tried to do with the MP tool. Should I have depressed the bucket with the cam lobe, then held it with the MP tool? Even so, the example of the MP tool that I have puts the tip 1/8" south of the bucket.
I also found that I have a repair area at the #2 exhaust shim spot on the head. Spit shim or ham handed shim tool use? I found silicon inside the cam cover :-( and a cracked cam cover at this area. I also have noticed oil residue outside. Someone trying to torque down the cover to stop the leak.I just picked up a replacement cam cover, and wondered if I should put a thin bead of RTV gasket sealant in this area. The head "looks" flat placing a straight edge across the repair, but obviously it's not. This bike was a low mileage but rough project, and I'm still getting to know her.
Thanks to everyone for sharing their knowledge/opinions here at Channel 11!
1979 Yamaha XS1100SF (gone)
Airbox w/K&N element
Jardine 4 into 1
145 mains, 45 pilots
If so it must have been installed incorrectly. Mine never came close to the cam unless the engine was rotated in the wrong direction then it interfered with the cam lobe.
Not being a smart a$$, I'm just really interested. I have never had a problem and I'm just curious.
...mine also, and Yes, it did contact the cam. I tried for a long time to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong, put it down, did some more reasearch and found others also had to grind theirs so this is what worked for me, and I will say after the modification of the tool it worked well It also works on my '83XJ 750 as I swapped shims between my '80G and the XJ 750 and I only needed a couple from the library to get both bikes back in spec.
Here is a look at where I had to clearance my tool...
1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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