Valve Adjustment Pictorial

[Wildkat]

NICE write up Steve!
Easy to follow
Thank you!

Nice work, steve. I would suggest to anyone new at this, only because it gives me more piece of mind...to tape a magnet to your socket when removing the cam cap nuts / washers and stuff a rag in the tunnel. I know there are magnetic sockets and insert magnets for sockets, but I've never quite gotten around to gettin a set of those

Ummmmm... yeah
I always seem to drop things in the hardest to get to places. Magnets are my friend...
lol

[BA80]

Nice pictoral Steve. However, I have to say that, IMHO, that method is a bit complicated and there are a LOT of ways to screw up.

Such as, bolts that could come loose, loosing cam timing, not to mention time consuming.

I must have just gotten one of the good ones when it came to the tool but after I figured out how to get just the little tip to catch on just the edge of the shim bucket it was quite easy and quick.

When I first got the okieSPECIAL I had a top end noise it took a while to figure out. turned out all the cam cap nuts were loose and a few had actualy fallen off. I believe the PO had attempted to adjust the valves with this method and things weren't properly retorqued. Luckily there wasn't any mechanical damage.

Just wanted to throw that out for those who may use this method. Be certain EVERYTHING is torqued properly and be CERTAIN the cams are in time before attempting to start the engine. Any of these could cause some expensive damage to your engine.

[DGXSER]

Steve, very nice write up, and nice camera to. I will support the stated idea that a rag of soem type NEEDS to go into that cam chain tunnel in the head PRIOR to removing any bolts or nuts or washers in that area. I recall the thread where one of our members had to dig through his engine and remove every engine cover to find a lost nut or washer from this very same procedure.

I am intrigued by this statement

taking care not to just take them off, but to loosen them gradually so as to not 'cock' the cam as at least one lobe will be holding a valve open

I only say this because I have never removed the cam, but I do remove the tensioner and all the caps. Once you get that far, the cam WILL be cocked to one side. At least always has been on my motors.

[jetmechmarty]

Well, thanks guys! I learned something this week. I've checked my valves and I know how the reshim them. I'll likely reshim them next winter. I know of a couple shops that know my bike and have shim libraries. I may decide to do it that way for the sake of expedience. These are little one man operations that I can work with. Now, I am armed with options.

A special thanks to Steve for taking the time to do the pictorial instruction.

[mack]

Shimming

Very good Steve. I went and bought a box of surgical gloves and use one on my left hand and one of the flat fridge magnets down the inside of my left middle finger to keep anything from falling into the motor. Provides you with the same dexterity and catches everything if I get clumsy with my right. Tried having a regular magnet close but it stuck to everything and became a real pain.

[STEPPENWOLF]

Excellent write up CRAZ.
Not being a mechanic myself more of a pm type I had one of our SWOXS members do my valves and I think the most non sun sunday verbage came with getting the actual valve cover off




But after all was said and done,valves set and new bolt put in.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ba80

"I must have just gotten one of the good ones when it came to the tool but after I figured out how to get just the little tip to catch on just the edge of the shim bucket it was quite easy and quick."

I think the problem with the tool is it will not work like the manual says to use it. The OEM Yamaha tool might be different that way. You hit it right on the head If you only open the valve about 1/8th" the thing will drop right in and give you enough roon to R/I any shim

[crazy steve]

First, thanks to those who posted kind words.

Now, I'm not 'recommending' this method to anyone; I simply posted this to show how it's done if that's how you choose to do an adjustment.

Nice pictoral Steve. However, I have to say that, IMHO, that method is a bit complicated and there are a LOT of ways to screw up. Such as, bolts that could come loose, loosing cam timing, not to mention time consuming..

Greg, any valve adjustment method has it's pitfalls. I like this method for several reasons. One, it's a straight-through process; no multiple steps of moving the tool and rotating the motor back-and-forth to remove shims, with multiple chances for mistakes. Two, I like being able to see all the parts, making it easy to check for any problems. Particularly on a motor that I got in a non-running bike with an unknown history; sometimes a little 'extra' work early-on can save you problems later. I'm not known for my good luck (they called me 'Mr Lucky' at the last place I worked, 'cause I ain't...), so being very meticulous is my defense against that. Three, you don't need to have the 'special' tool or a on-hand supply of shims with this method; not everybody wants to spend the $12 for the tool or $100+ for a 'starter' set of extra shims. I do it this way, I can make one trip to get whatever shims I need (although I'm starting to get a small stock). No small thing when it's a 30 mile trip to the PO or 80 miles to a dealer...

Different people are comfortable with different methods, so pick the one that works for you...

[BA80]

Not knocking it Steve, just sayin' that all that work to change 2-5 shims (which is about all that's needed usually) seems a bit counter productive. Paticularly if you miscalculate the shim size and have to go back and correct yourself. Not to mention the other various things that could transpire during the process.

But, to each his own. I'll stick with the tool.

[crazy steve]

..just sayin' that all that work to change 2-5 shims (which is about all that's needed usually) seems a bit counter productive.

To tell the truth, if I only had to change 1-2 shims, I'd 'fix' my MP tool and use it. I only did this one this way to get a look at the cam and cam journals (not knowing any 'history' on this motor) and to do this tutorial

But when I did my SG motor (again, no history), only one valve was within spec; all the rest were too tight. Not having a bunch of shims on-hand, and not wishing to have to remove/reinstall the other seven at least twice (once to find out the size, and again to put in the right size), I pulled both cams. As it turned out, I only needed to buy two shims, but with the cams out it was easy to swap the others around in one operation.

So.... who's going to post the picture tutorial with the MP tool?

[BA80]

Not having a bunch of shims on-hand

Pm me next time. I have quite a few.

So.... who's going to post the picture tutorial with the MP tool?

Probably someone who needs to adjust and can operate the tool.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Cs

Hey CS, you know I have said you have been a huge help to me and many others on here But, you are very skilled and know these bikes inside and out. What seems easy to you can be scary to some who aren't, even dangerious to others who don't know all you do about don't skipping a tooth or setting a cct back right Your pic's and tutor's are great Just if some not so skilled tried them and For the pro's no problem, great stuff

[bikerphil]

who's going to post the picture tutorial with the MP tool

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Prude

Hey, not being a prude, but, this is a family site, someone could be teaching their 5 year old how to do a valve adjustment

[bikerphil]

Sorry, I couldn't help it, seeing how many people despise using that tool. Actually I use it myself.