Valve Adjustment Pictorial

[WMarshy]

I think you guys have cabin fever. Im amazed this thread is 6 pages long lol. When it comes down to it no matter what your skill level is everyone should know their limit and if they arnt sure about something then knowing when to stop and ask questions is just as important. If someone proceeds in the face of uncertainty then they should accept the consiquences. Accidents happen even to the experienced though... I thought the tool was helpful and found it less stressful than pulling the cam caps. I was always concerned about the timing being set correctly after reinstalling the cams...

[skids]

I wish I had used the MP tool. If I had, I would not have seen this.

What are you refering to in the pic?

[crazy steve]

What are you refering to in the pic?

The scored cam bearing surface.... he was hoping for 'ignorance is bliss'.... lol...

[skids]

I can see Steve's point if you need to move shims around. I have a small cache of them. I have done the adjustments both ways. No big deal either way, but you do have to be careful about not stripping the studs/nuts on the cam bosses. The torque spec is pretty light.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

+1

I think you guys have cabin fever. Im amazed this thread is 6 pages long lol. When it comes down to it no matter what your skill level is everyone should know their limit and if they arnt sure about something then knowing when to stop and ask questions is just as important. If someone proceeds in the face of uncertainty then they should accept the consiquences. Accidents happen even to the experienced though... I thought the tool was helpful and found it less stressful than pulling the cam caps. I was always concerned about the timing being set correctly after reinstalling the cams...

WOW, I couldn't agree more If you got something that works for you and you are good with it, cary on, if not ask questions before I just pipe up sometimes to see all the banter back and forth about "I know more then you" and "my way is the best" What ever works for your bike and you is the "best: way to do it

[motoman]

WOW, I couldn't agree more If you got something that works for you and you are good with it, cary on, if not ask questions before I just pipe up sometimes to see all the banter back and forth about "I know more then you" and "my way is the best" What ever works for your bike and you is the "best: way to do it

lol......+1

[RJriver]

Great pics !!!!

Thanks Steve for the pics and alt process of getting to the valve shims! Had just purchased that special tool to depress the valve guides, watched a youtube vid, looked like a piece of cake. Wrong!! Two shims out after 2 1/2 hours , just could not get the tool to stay inplace or catch the guide

had thought that a person should be able to take loose the cams, etc.
Thanks so very very much!
Its just a "81" SH, barn find, but was all there kinda Getting ready for another trip to Sturgis and then maybe on to Colorado
Thanks to all the forum for all their help!!

[jjz28]

So, I will be checking my clearances soon. What is the overall vote for? The tool, or removing the cams? Also when I use the feeler gauge, how tight should it slide in and out to get a proper size? Should it slide in easy or have resistance? That may be a stupid question but I don't have much experience with the gauges. Thanks guys.

[bikerphil]

When using the feeler gauge, if one size fits, say .010" for example, then try .009", if that won't fit, then your measurement is .010", I prefer the use of the shim removal tool, it works fine for me, JMHO

[motoman]

So, I will be checking my clearances soon. What is the overall vote for? The tool, or removing the cams? Also when I use the feeler gauge, how tight should it slide in and out to get a proper size? Should it slide in easy or have resistance? That may be a stupid question but I don't have much experience with the gauges. Thanks guys.

Use the tool if possible...........and a slight 'drag' on feeler gauge.

[GLoweVA]

So, I will be checking my clearances soon. What is the overall vote for? The tool, or removing the cams? Also when I use the feeler gauge, how tight should it slide in and out to get a proper size? Should it slide in easy or have resistance? That may be a stupid question but I don't have much experience with the gauges. Thanks guys.

I haven't use the tool, yet, but I would think that the number of shims that need changing/swapping/replacement would justify which method to use.
In other words, if you've got 2-3 shims to work on (because the others are in spec) then use the tool, but If you've got to swap more than 4 around, then maybe pulling the cams out might be a better way to go.
Also factored into the decision is any other work like replcaing the CCT with an ACCT, then pulling the cams might be good too.

Another factor is whether you've ever pulled your cams before and are familiar/comfortable doing it.
Just trying to give you options/opinions.

[jrm000kc]

I need to do clearances...

Riding home the other day I've noticed a ticking from the top of the engine. I bought my '79 Special with 31k and am now at 39k. I'm too intimidated by doing this since I have a great fear of taking a running bike and turning it into a pile by messing something up on something as critical as this.
I'm sure it's easier than it looks but I'd rather have someone there that's done it before. Should have at least checked clearances when I replaced the gasket...hindsight always 20/20.
Guess I'll go get a feeler gauge set and some Yamabond. I have the Clymer manual and some time this weekend. Glad I found this thread.

[BA80]

James,

That 79 will be really loud on the top end with the valves properly adjusted, mine was. But, it ran like crazy!

Some of us are getting together at Russ' place in Shawnee the middle of next month to work on The Navy Bike. You could swing by there and we could give you a hand if you like. It'll need resyncing after a valve adjustment.

I would get a gasket for the valve cover. If you need to know where to get a good price on one I know where to get them for $12.

[jrm000kc]

That'd be great to ride out to Shawnee and get it done. I did replace the valve cover gasket about 5 months ago. Not sure if it would still be good. Got some Yamabond today and need to seal up my boots.
I was able to get a 4-gauge sync set from Alter Ego here in KC for $65-not bad. My question is it came with 4 brass rods-restrictors I'm guessing. Seemed to worked fine without them-I just closed the gauge valves enough to stop the pulsing. The brass rods are threaded so I'm guessing that's for another model. I just cut a 1" piece of vacuum line and used it to connect the restrictors to my ports.
Harry mentioned the 'washer swap' to possibly fix my 2nd gear slip. I'd really like to fix that also so I don't make Harley riders think they're actually outrunning me. (More a pride thing than an actual problem. Only does it when I really hit the throttle.)
Finally got an auto tensioner from a Raptor put in. Had to enlarge the holes a smidge to make it fit. No more leaks or adjusting which is nice. What's weird is I find myself trying to find stuff to fix/check instead of just getting on and riding.

[James England]

Pointers on the cam cogs

Why are the pointers on the cam cogs so important? If the T Mark on the crank is lined up, the dots on the cams are in the right places, no slack in the chain.....why should it matter about the pointers on the cogs?