Spin On Oil Filter Adapter POLL

[Radiation]

When are these bad bays going to be available The the general public? (ME) $$$

[TopCatGr58]

Unforeseen delay!

Hey there Chop and Radiation,

1.) They are made from solid T-6061 "billet" aluminum milled and lathed to size!

2.) My previous design for the ones that were 1/2 height for using with Oil Cooler plates didn't appear to work as expected.

3.) The regular full size WILL WORK with an adapter, but as has been mentioned in this thread and the tech tip, there may be a concern with the amount of ground clearance you'll have between the bottom of the filter and the ground! The cooler plate is ~1. thick, the SOFA is 1" thick, and then the filter is 3.00" tall. The OEM filter cover is ~2.75" thick. SO....with cooler and adapter and filter, it will stick out/down about 2.25" further than the bottom of the OEM filter cover. IF you have that much clearance and it seems that the filter won't stick out lower than the exhaust pipes, then the OEM designed SOFA will fit and work with your cooler!

PS, the above was WITHOUT the oil cooler already in place, IF it's already in place, then you only need 1.25" extra clearance!

4.) Production has been stymied by several things, one has been having to do extra projects for WORK for the past 2 weeks. Also, I got a ROTARY table off Ebay to be able to better mill out the circular patterns from the inside of the plates, it was old, and needs to be disassembled, lubed, and put back together. Then, I have to figure out a way to fit it onto my LATHE/MILL table, the Rotary table is a bit thick, and IF mounted on my cross slide, the work piece will be sticking up too far and I won't be able to bring the End Mills across and above the piece to be able to work it!?
SO....I'm still working on this. SORRY FOR THE DELAY!!

It is a decent alternative to the OEM, and does work well for the folks that have installed them. I want to be able to maintain the same quality that the first ones were made by, so as they say, quality takes time! Thanks for the interest, I am trying!
T.C.

[xschop]

I agree

quality does take time. I know this too well. I was expecting the machinist to have finished my wheels 2 Mo.s ago. But no potato....yet....take your time

[TopCatGr58]

Finally in PRODUCTION

Hey folks,

I finally got time(a week's vacation) to work on that Rotary Table, got it apart and refitted and lubed and working well. As you can see below, it's a bit large for my cross slide, but was able to rig up a securing bracket to the tail stock(red arrow)!







Here's a shot of my 3-n-1 machine with "just a little" scurf in the catch basket, I've been busy! The aluminum log is getting shorter, down to 12 inches from 20. I should be able to get about another 10 or so plates from it!



Below is my first crop of 6 adapters I just finished. I did 3 from Monday thru Thursday, learning how to set up the machine, putting on the R-Table, figuring out what to mill out so that I could later mount them onto the lathe chuck, etc.! I did the second 3 Friday and Saturday, so I'm getting faster!! But I've already dulled 2 of my 1/2" CARBIDE end mill bits!
Those things are tough, I can't cut into them with any of my basic grinders or cutoff grinders, bench grinder. I NOW realize that I would need diamond encrusted grinding wheels!

At this point I want to put out a big THANKYOU to Bruce Gerkin for the end mill bits he provided! Also, thanks to XS Willy for the Morse Tapers and lathe bit, JW Sanders, and several others who helped me in LEARNING this machining stuff!!



3 of them I didn't mill out enough from the center to go beyond the oil supply holes location, so when I drilled thru, they were halfway between the deeper center and the mid depth. This causes NO problem with how it performs, just made it harder to smooth out the edges of the supply holes on the inside. So in the next 3, I just milled out the deeper section wide enough to included the supply holes positions, so that I could countersink the edges with a slightly larger drill bit!

************************************************

What's involved in making these things:

Preface: I have to mount the Rotary Table to the cross slide and secure it to the tail stock, and use 2 morse tapers in mill head and R-table to get it perfectly centered. I have to remove R-table to use Lathe! Centering workpiece on R-table and in Lathe Chuck takes at least 5 minutes, confirmed with machinists dial gauge and multiple adjustments of 4 lathe chuck jaws! This is why I did batches of 3 to reduce number of times mounting and removing R-table and Chuck!

A.)Mounting Supply Pipe

• 1. Cut 2" sections from 3 foot low carbon threaded rod.
• 2. Grind chamfer edge on both ends of section.
• 3. Center punch one end and mount into special jig on Drill Press.
• 4. Drill 1/4" hole 1-7/8" thru, then fill with cutting fluid.
• 5. Drill 3/8" hole, and then 1/2" all the way thru.
• 6. Grind end of drilled holes smooth....Mounting Pipe DONE!

B.)S.O.F.A.'s

• 1. Cut 1.1" thick slice from 5.25" wide aluminum log:20 minutes EACH.
• 2. Mount and CENTER in lathe chuck.
• 3. Drill 1/2" center hole, and lathe bottom of plate flat!
• 4. Place on Rotary Table, CENTER, clamp in place.
• 5. Using 1/2" bit, mill 4 successive 1/2" wide 0.05" deep
  rings from around center outward to edge.
• 6. Continue milling outer 2 rings to 0.25" depth in 0.10" increments
• 7. Change to 5/8" roughing mill bit, mill the inner 2 rings
  to depth of 0.75" in 0.25" increments.
• 8. Place plate back into Lathe chuck inside facing out,CENTER it,
  turn/face remaining outer rim=engine mating surface, then turn
  and face inside surfaces to smooth out mill edges/lines and chamfers!
• 9. Reverse lathe chuck jaws for inside grip, flip plate so
  bottom faces out, CENTER, then turn/surface outer round surface.
• 10. Bore out center 1/2" hole to 0.72".
• 11. Thread center hole with 20mm x 1.5mm TAP, smooth ends with emory cloth.
• 12. Use jig to center punch 6 oil supply hole locations.
• 13. On DrillPress, drill them with 1/4" bit, then countersink with 3/8" bit.
• 14. Inspect and smooth any burrs with emory cloth, clean. S.O.F.A. DONE;PHEW!

************************************************
I know this is a MASSIVE REPLY, but I wanted to provide lots of info about what it takes me to make these things, as well as what I've put out in advance in tools and supplies.

Several years ago when I was first getting these things made I wanted to be able to provide them at a decent price, but was thwarted by having to shell out $25.00 per plate to the "Machinist" for his part, and he used a CNC mill and 1" thick plate so it wasn't as much work for him. I still was making the mounting pipes, and drilling the holes in the plates, along with collecting the $ and packaging and shipping them out! So that's why the original price was at $55.00 each, to cover "HIS" fees as well as materials, postage, essentially a NO PROFIT for me process. Then he decided NOT to help me make them.

I've since invested $400.00 for the 3-n-1 Mill/Drill/Lathe, plus $200.00 more for the lathe chuck, quick change tool post holder, end mill holders, machinist clock micrometer gauge,plus $85.00 for a milling vice that I probably won't need to use! . Another $200.00 for the Metal Cutting Bandsaw and blades. $140.00 for the Rotary Table. $175.00 for the aluminum log.

Where I'm going with this diatribe is this: This item doesn't enhance performance, I think it does add to the looks but it's way down under the engine so it's hard to see. What it DOES do is make is easier to do your oil filter changes! So...it's hard to justify shelling out much $$ for them and I agree that the previous price was too high. With me being able to NOW make them completely by myself, I can lower the asking price to what I think is a reasonable $35.00, which includes Priority Mail S & H to USA residents.

A couple of folks from Down Under were interested in getting one, shipping charges are 3 times as much, so I have to ask $50.00 a piece to send to AUSTRALIA.

Please see the tech tip for payment instructions, thanks for listening, and for your patience!

[MartyA]

Well done, TC.

And these things work well. Still have one on the Venture, which is identical to the XS.

[Ralph Meeks]

Congratulations T.C.

You have really put a lot of time and resources into this project. I am happy to see that your idea has finally become reality.

My two adapters still work flawlessly. I changed the oil in the 80SG yesterday and
as usual, said a little Thank You for the adapter and that simple CLEAN spin on filter.

Raff

[79XS11F]

I didn't even know there was such a thing OEM or otherwise. I would be VERY interested.
Rob

[82xj1100]

I would love one count me in.

[rpriest8]

I would like one of these and have sent the money and when it's my turn send it to me.
Thanks for all the hard work you have done to make this easier for all of us.
Roy

[Snow]

Finally got around to changing my oil and took some shots with my cellphone.

http://xs11.livejournal.com/15117.html

[rpriest8]

Got mine and followed the directions and everything went smothly.
I cleaned and cleaned before hand and waited the 24 hrs and it sealed up fine.
Have put on only about 25 or so miles but some of everthing.
Thanks TopCat for the effort for all of us.

Roy

[Snow]

I seem to have an oil leak now - I think it might just be from where the filter mates to the adapter plate. Will find out for sure when I change my oil in the next few days and report back. I'm really hoping it's not where the adapter mates to the case, as that would be a little bit more of a pain.

How tight does everyone else put on their filters and do you oil your o-rings?

[skids]

No problems with leaks on mine. I have one from the original run. Wasn't there a groove cut for the later style? Yes, I always put a light film of motor oil on the oring before I screw it on. Thightness? it isn't something I measure, it is something I feel. Tight but not overtight.

[kennewick58]

2 please

I will take one for my 77 xs 750D. One for my 81 XS11 special.

Let me know how much and where to send the money. Thanks TC.

What about a finned cover for protection and additional cooling?

[Snow]

It seems that during my last oil change, I didn't tighten it as much as during the first (it was really stuck on there when I went to remove it) and it had worked a little loose. I've snugged it back up and wiped it down to make sure that was the problem but am pretty confident it is after this morning's ride to work.

TC has provided me the measurements I can take to a machine shop if I want to have them cut an o-ring groove and I might just have that done while I tear apart my motor this winter - but I'm not overly concerned now that I know the filter was just a bit loose.