Er... beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
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Spin On Oil Filter Adapter POLL
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The way I see it is keep it simple.For me a spin on would be easier and simpler.The trick is if it works and you are satisifed leave it alone if not{I`m not} then try something else.That is why I will go with a spin on filter.Bill Harvell
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Any update on how this set-up is working and are any available yet?
I have use for 3 sets.Pat Kelly
<p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>
1978 XS1100E (The Force)
1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
1999 Suburban (The Ship)
1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
1968 F100 (Valentine)
"No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"
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Well, the jury is still out!! It was late fall when several folks got them from the first batch. Hobbit in Fla. put his on, but developed a leak, had to pull it off just so he could still ride until he was ready to attempt a remount! Possible problem with sealant??
Another fellow in Ca. got one, also stated he followed the directions I had used but developed a leak, removed it, had a friend put an o-ring groove on it, put it back on, but still developed a leak, he rides hard at 5K+RPM most of the time, he thought it might have been due to that, vibration shaking it loose?? Is working with his machinist friend to put a small recess in it to try to add a thin lock nut to further bolster the tightness to keep it from backing/spinning loose!? The nuts we found to fit the 20mmx 1.5 pitch were .75" thick!!! He's trying to cut one in 1/2 or 1/3.
Several others haven't mounted theirs yet due to winter. I really don't know why these two developed leaks. I applied mine with RED locktite(for studs) on the mounting shaft that goes into the engine, and on the threads that the plate mounts to the shaft to keep it from loosening. I applied a decent layer of the red copper "gasket replacement" silicone sealant(NOT PLAIN RTV) on the mating surface after cleaning both surfaces with acetone! I let the silicone skin for 30 minutes prior to assembly, and I let the assembly set up for 24 hours to thoroughly cure/dry before filling with oil. The others stated that they did the same thing?
I spun the adapter on just hand tight, but firmly, not using a strap wrench, but enough to squish the sealant out a little from inbetween the mating surfaces. I then drove the bike for 1500 miles to the Ga. rally, I ran it at 5K plus rpm for most of the days ride thru the mountains, and almost at that for the ride to and from Va. to Ga. !! Mine hasn't leaked a drop!?!? That's why I felt my technique was a good one, otherwise I wouldn't have offered it to anyone, so I'm really bothered by these first two fellow Xsives problems with it sealing!!!
The only other thing that was suggested was to possibly use a paper gasket in between the mating surfaces, or even a large flat rubber one similar to the one that goes between the oil filter and the engine! If you read this thread from the beginning you can see that we tried the securing nut, but it made the design/plate too thick, and also didn't allow enough room to place the oil supply holes close enough together to permit use of the smaller filters. The O-ring groove also adds more costs, and with a good 1/4" to 1/3" wide mating surface we thought the gasket replacement sealer would make a good seal. So....both until I hear from several other Xsives that have mounted theirs and have had successful/non leaking trials, and also still having to work out a better/cheaper/easier way to make the threaded rod, production has not continued, since I didn't want to be providing and selling a possibly faulty product!?
Any suggestions on the leaking aspect from others, keeping in mind the current design, and not neccessarily changing it?!?!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Hey T.C.
I found in one of my fastener catalogs a M20x1.5 nut that's 9mm thick. It is also 30mm across from flat to flat. If this is any help, I can give you the part number and you can order them thru any supplyer that can stock SPAENAUR parts. Up here most bearing places like 'General Bearing Service' stock spaenaur.
-Justin
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Thanks for the update on what looks to be a good product. There will always be variables when a product is in it's infancy.
I'd still be interested in trying at least one. I have my 1100 and 2 750's.
Keep me on the list when/if some more become available. I know there are others in line ahead of me, I'm in no hurry.
Keep up the good work!!!!Pat Kelly
<p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>
1978 XS1100E (The Force)
1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
1999 Suburban (The Ship)
1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
1968 F100 (Valentine)
"No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"
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I read about the problem and what might be the cause.Granted,I don`t have one in hand to look at so bear with me.The best way to keep something from working loose is to double nut it.Put one nut inside,the other outside use the sealant that was used before and tighten up with a wrench{not going to remove this}and then see if it leaks.Worth a try,hope this helpsBill Harvell
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adaptor
In my case the adaptoer did not work loose. As a matter of fact the main problem that I have is that the lock tight is holding so well that I can't get the adaptor off! With the exhaust system on my bike there is no way to get a strap wrench on it. So..., the bike is coming all the way apart to be redone completely. I'll just have to ride my 80 xs until the 79 is back on the road.Walt
80 XS11s - "Landshark"
79 XS11s
03 Valkyrie
80 XS Midnight Special - Freebee 1
78 Honda CB125C - Freebee 2
81 Suzuki 850L - Freebee 3
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Re: adaptor
Originally posted by Hobbit
In my case the adaptoer did not work loose. As a matter of fact the main problem that I have is that the lock tight is holding so well that I can't get the adaptor off! With the exhaust system on my bike there is no way to get a strap wrench on it. So..., the bike is coming all the way apart to be redone completely. I'll just have to ride my 80 xs until the 79 is back on the road.Bill Harvell
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pipes
The pipes on my xs are four into twos, but unlike most of them these crisscross over the front of the engine. It isn't hard to change the filter, but there is no room to get a wrench on the adapter to remove it.Walt
80 XS11s - "Landshark"
79 XS11s
03 Valkyrie
80 XS Midnight Special - Freebee 1
78 Honda CB125C - Freebee 2
81 Suzuki 850L - Freebee 3
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More Options
First to TheDjost,
Thanks for looking into this locknut problem. The 6mm thick would be much better than the 9mm, and if the 6mm is also only 30mm diam, that would be perfect!!! Is that from crown tip to crown tip, or from flat to flat?? The maximum diameter of the outer ring for the oil supply holes has to fit within 50mm, and with the holes 1/4" diameter~6mm, that drops the zone to ~38mm, allowing a few for variance is drilling/placement!! I'll do a search for Spaenaur products here in the US? The catalog I was using was MSC Industrial Supply Co.!
2nd, to WildBill,
Due to the protrusion of the mounting nipple on the engine case that the oil filter bolt/supply tube screws into, and in trying to keep the size/thickness of the plate to a minimum, there is only about 2mm clearance between that protrusion and the inside of the plate!! But with the plate being threaded, wouldn't the addition of just the locking nut on the outside along with the locktite be more than sufficient to secure it from turning/coming loose??
Hobbit, I believe it was Robert Haller's bike that had a set of 4-2 pipes that did a special mandrell bend right over/under the oil filter chamber that doesn't/wouldn't allow the use of this adapter at all, but many of the other styles I've seen allows for room to get to and to have the oil filter hang/drop down inbetween the pipes(mine included). So sorry you have to drop your pipes to change/fix it...but hey, you needed to change to header gaskets anyways, right!?!?! BTW, when you do get it off and hopefully back on without any leaks, how about a picture so we can show how it fits with your unique pipes?!?!
Pat Kelly, you're on the list, only 19 possible orders ahead of you!! But seriously, from what folks have read here regarding the possible leaking problems, but if it turns out to be a few isolated cases, and that most others report that they have had successful mountings, then I'm sure I can get the production back up fairly quickly.
Others who got one but haven't reported in yet, Brent in Ga., Marty A. in Pa, CMA1 in Canada, Ralph Meeks in NC., the other two I've told you about! And I have one from the first batch left, but with recent holidays and concerns, didn't get to sell it, yet! I sent WPC57(Bill Chaplain) a PM a while back offering it to him, he was the next on the list, but haven't heard, will try again, then go to next on list if no word!!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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filter
Hey T.C.
Here are some pics of my exhaust. My plan is to strip the bike all the way down and do a complete refurbish.
It was also burning some oil and fouling a plug in #4.
Walt
80 XS11s - "Landshark"
79 XS11s
03 Valkyrie
80 XS Midnight Special - Freebee 1
78 Honda CB125C - Freebee 2
81 Suzuki 850L - Freebee 3
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TopCat,I see what you mean.Could the adapter not been tightened up good at the start been the cause for it leaking?Just a guess or the mating surface been dirty.Proably something simple and easy to overlook. Hobbit,Those must be some good headers,like them.You think you could reach the filter with one of the wrench that fits on the end of 3/8 extenison with rachet?Finding one might pose a problem but a auto parts place or mc shop might know where to get one.Trick is finding right size. Good luckBill Harvell
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