78XS rehab

[Eab]

Anyone know a good hack for mounting stock rear turn signals without the rubber washers/mounts? Had an order out for a set but they're apparently Very backordered, seems like there has go to be a way to fabricate something to fill the gap without dropping 50 bucks!

[bikerphil]

Yep, put a large washer, probably 1/2" or larger inside the frame and one on the outside and bolt the turn signals on with no flex rubber mount. You will need some smaller washers too probably on the inside of the frame between the large washer and the nut.

[Eab]

Anyone know of a trick to remove the dang battery tray? Old battery blew and I've got some rust to manage, but the left-side bolt that connects to the rubber shock damper is apparently impossible to move. It spins freely from up top, but I cant figure how to immobilize the nut that dang bolt engages to. Halfway to cutting away the plate underneath thats blocking access! Evening #2 butting my head against this thing.

[bikerphil]

Maybe try drilling a 1/4" hole in the center of the head of the bolt and then break the head off. Hold the bolt head with a small needle nose vise grips or a wrench to keep it from spinning while drilling..

[Bax]

Hi Eab, I just did some preservation work on my battery tray a few weeks back and there should not be a nut on the end of those bolts. There is a steel sleeve that joins the rubber mounts together but the bolt, IIRR, fastens to a tapped hole. Guessing you have a stripped mount here. Thinking that prying up on the tray while turning the bolt out or the previously suggested bolt head removal are the options.

---Bax

[Eab]

Hi Eab, I just did some preservation work on my battery tray a few weeks back and there should not be a nut on the end of those bolts. There is a steel sleeve that joins the rubber mounts together but the bolt, IIRR, fastens to a tapped hole. Guessing you have a stripped mount here. Thinking that prying up on the tray while turning the bolt out or the previously suggested bolt head removal are the options.

---Bax

This seemed to be it, plus a few shot rows of bolt thread - didn't even torque it that hard, thinking PO might've? Anyway for anyone that has this problem: I got a long flathead through a Very narrow gap underneath the housing and levered up the bottom of the bolt while ratcheting (did I mention I nabbed a flea market compressor ) and all of a sudden the bolt was fighting a bit, then backed out! Tray has seen better days but it's salvageable. Bax's suggestion didn't pan out exactly but it got me in the right direction, muchas gracias! 6

[Eab]

Trying to tackle 'misc' stuff before the inaugural ride, and now I'm eyeing the side covers. One of the plastic tabs snapped a bit but fixing plastic shouldnt be too hard to manage - but the dang lock to keep the side cover on is fried. I suspect the mechanism is thoroughly rusted. I don't need this thing to lock - does anyone know a workaround?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there, this link is to show you a way to repair a broken locking tab. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39553

It shows cutting off locking tab, drilling hole in remaining flat tab to put a screw through into new aluminum tab, but you can fashion a receiving tab/nut combo that you could then put a thumb screw through to secure bottom of side cover. Or some variation of that to suite your design.

[2WheelFun]

Baking soda and super glue work great on motorcycle side covers. Not kidding, look it up on YouTube.


Clean with alcohol, drop of glue, dusting of baking soda and keep repeating till your crack is filled or your broken bit is built up enough to be shaped with a dremel or file.

As for the lock, keep soaking it down with penetrant and work the key while using pliers on the lever is all I can offer. The key don't turn very far to unlock it.

[DiverRay]

That lock can be removed with two screws. Pull it off the frame and it's easy to work with. Check the number on the lock! if you have a replacement ignition lock, they may not have switched the side cover lock. If that is the case, remove the lock disc from the lock, re-assemble and any key will work.

[Eab]

Got the lock issue sorted! Got a whole lot sorted in fact, replaced the rear fender and front fork seals, swapped out the rats nest of DIY fuse holders with a blade block that I couldn't quite mount level but what the hell. Basically the one significant thing I have left until I take it out and find out whats wrong with the actual engine is the rear brake.

Rebuilt it with a kit and all seemed well. After a few days I went to put it on the bike intending to bleed it, no dice. The cup and piston had worked smoothly at the start, but I noticed it seemed rougher until it stopped working entirely, wouldnt bounce back. I break it down again to see whats up and it looks like the dang seals have tripled in size. Check out the photo, thats the OEM seal and the replacement, both had been the same size when I put the replacement in a few days ago. Used DOT3, but I've got to think this is a chemical reaction of some sort? Anyway, not thrilled. The gasket thats still on the piston has swollen too, no way it's going back in the housing without shredding apart. Contacted the manufacturer to get new seals, we'll see how that goes. Ugh.


Edit: 95% certain this is the result of rookie BS on my part.

[bikerphil]

I've only seen rubber seals swell like that when carb cleaner was used instead of brake kleen. Otherwise the seals could be defective. Could the brake fluid somehow be contaminated?

[Eab]

I've only seen rubber seals swell like that when carb cleaner was used instead of brake kleen. Otherwise the seals could be defective. Could the brake fluid somehow be contaminated?

I don't see how in this case, the only materials they were exposed to were kleen and DOT3. I'll chime in when I hear back from the manufacturer.

Another fun new hiccup: she won't start! This is disconcerting. I'd had her "running" previously by bypassing the solenoid, and with the new solenoid it had turned over (without the plugs in) and shot goo all over my garage, no problem. Now, though, I'm trying to run it with a topped-up battery, plugs in, and I can hear the starter struggling to spin but it can't get it done. It doesn't seem to want to turn over at all. It's possible that it spun when the plugs were out because it wasn't fighting compression, maybe? Trying to think of what low hanging fruit fixes I can check before going wire by wire on this thing, yikes.

[jetmechmarty]

Another fun new hiccup: she won't start! This is disconcerting. I'd had her "running" previously by bypassing the solenoid, and with the new solenoid it had turned over (without the plugs in) and shot goo all over my garage, no problem. Now, though, I'm trying to run it with a topped-up battery, plugs in, and I can hear the starter struggling to spin but it can't get it done. It doesn't seem to want to turn over at all. It's possible that it spun when the plugs were out because it wasn't fighting compression, maybe? Trying to think of what low hanging fruit fixes I can check before going wire by wire on this thing, yikes.

If the starter isn’t turning it you have one or more of a few issues. The battery could be weak. There could be resistance in the starter wiring. It could be time to rebuild the starter.

[Bax]

Hi Eab, Lowest hanging fruit........ Are you in neutral? Next up, does the engine have a good ground for the starter motor. I think you just had the battery tray out and the ground path to the engine could have been disturbed.

---Bax