Detroit Venturer Project

[Radioguylogs]

Kurt:

I don't know why you say that. Your bikes are enviable, and nothing I do will ever be in the same league as your Seca.

Ben:

Thanks for the feedback- I know you will will enjoy your "new" ST1100. I enjoy my V65 as much as any of my other bikes.

[Radioguylogs]

Getting ready to button up the carbs and re-rack them.

I checked the float levels and they are 24-25 mm.

I see the float level specs for an XS1100H only show the 3.0 mm level that you measure using a clear tube on the assembled rack. That doesn't help me set them close as possible before I assemble them and put gas in them.

Soooo....I checked the '80 G and SG specs and I see they are both spec'd at 23 mm nominal. So that's where I'll start on my H.

It's interesting to note that the '79 and earlier levels are 25.7 mm nominal with the older brass floats.

[jetmechmarty]

The G/SG spec should get you where you need to be on the fuel level. If you’re lucky, you’ll be spot on.

[Radioguylogs]

...hope so:




Thanks Marty for confirming the starting point.

BTW, I'm liking the float level gauge in the picture. I bought it from Taiwan for less than $10.

I set the Harbor Fright lighted magnifier lens on a stool on top of the workbench.

I am certain these floats are set more accurately than any I have done before.

[jetmechmarty]

...hope so:




Thanks Marty for confirming the starting point.

BTW, I'm liking the float level gauge in the picture. I bought it from Taiwan for less than $10.

I went through a set of 1981 XS11 Special carburetors a few years ago. I set them like you're doing. All I had to do was check the fuel level. All four were in spec. I bought the same float gauge from Randakk's Cycle Shakk before the merger with Z1, Dime City, and MikesXS.

Here's another cool tool.

[MPittma100]

Float Height

Hi Mike,

It's a good idea to poor fuel in the carbs while off the bike. This will make it easy to fix any leaks. Also can verify float levels with clear tubing.

[motoman]

Mike, that 3mm fuel level puts it at the center of lock washer bolt that holds fuel bowl on carb. That check specificly is to be done with engine running at idle(specified by Yamaha for 81 model carbs ONLY). For engine to run smooth as silk, ALL four of those fuel levels have to be identical which will allow the idle mixture screws to all be set the same. Fuel levels in bowls dictate amount of fuel drawn into venturi, so it is most important those fuel levels are at all the same levels.

[Radioguylogs]

Marty:

I actually made a float pin removal tool from a design I saw on the Triples forum before I owned an XS11, but the design was "borrowed" from this site:





Unfortunately, the aluminum threads on my tool stripped out after about 20 cycles. I would gladly buy something like the one you bought- it has more thread engagement.


Mike P:

I tried wet-checking the float levels on the Bagger (XS11SG) before installing them:



Despite carefully leveling the carbs, the readings were so erratic I gave up and checked them on the bike with it running. I got stable readings on the bike.

I need a better technique to be successful checking them off the bike.


Brant:

I agree- equal gas at the right level gets all four jugs pulling their fair share!

[MPittma100]

Float Levels

Mike, Did you have to adjust any floats after you installed them? Have you had a chance to sync them yet?

[Radioguylogs]

Mike P:

No, I haven't put the carbs on the Venturer yet- maybe tonight.

I'll transplant the exhaust from the Bagger onto the Venturer before I put gas in the Venturer carbs. Should be about a week from now.

For reference, I did check wet levels on the Bagger after I installed the carbs, and they were nearly perfect. I had dry-set them to 23mm.

[Radioguylogs]

My update is overdue.

First things first. I unexpectedly lost my job on Monday. My phone and computer were turned off immediately, so I was disconnected for a few days while I set up new equipment and accounts.

I succeeded to transplant the Bagger exhaust into the Venturer and I installed the NOS Spaghetti pipes on the Bagger.

I wish I had a picture of the Bagger handy . It's nice to have new pipes. It sounds bit 'buzzier' than the stock exhaust, but it is not really much different.
I like it.

I got the airbox and carbs on the Venturer and tried starting it. At fist it would only run on 1.5 cylinders until I realized my new auxiliary gas tank needed to be raised higher. Don't know why it took me 1/2 hour to figure that out.

Once I got a steady supply of gas, she ran easily and I could sync the carbs without any trouble.

...But gas was coming out of a few different places. I know the rubber fuel T's have to swell up, and that was part of the problem. But something worse was going on. There was even gas coming our of the airbox.

I measured the fuel levels in the bowls #1 and #4 were perfect. Number 3 was about 1 mm low. Number 2 was 1-4 mm high and erratic. Bummer. I know where the excessive gas is coming from.

Not my best maiden experience, except the bike was purring nicely.

So, I knew I needed to take the carbs off and see why #2 float is sticking. The float was binding on the float pin, It didn't rotate freely, even though it was fine when I set the float a week earlier. Seems the the bushing on the float is out of round. I used an awl to try to make it round, and sanded the float pin to get it moving freely . I checked the float level , and reassembled the carbs on the bike.

I was worried about gas in the oil, so tonight I changed the oil to be safe. The used oil seems fine, and the volume measures correct. Smells OK to me. I guess it's better to be safe than ruin a good engine for $25 in oil.

I sure hope the gas stays in the carbs when I get a chance to try again. We decided to go camping in the RV this week, starting Monday; so it may have to wait a week if I don't get an opportunity tomorrow.

Sorry, no pictures today.

I hope to take a test ride this bike in next couple of weeks!

[skids]

Good job Mike. There is enough summer to enjoy the machine. I have also seen where the pins in the float valves stick. I am talking about the spring action within the pins.

[Radioguylogs]

Skids:

I understand what you mean, although I haven't had that happen yet...

[Radioguylogs]

Home Stretch

Put the carbs back on - no leaks this time.

Bike started easily and purred nicely, carbs stayed in perfect sync.

So, I put on the tank and the seat this morning and took her for a spin to the gas station to fill up that big tank.

It all started well, but by the time I got home, the clutch would not release and gas was pouring out from under the gas tank.

Clutch was easy - just stretch on the new cable and the discs settling in. The normal adjustments took care of it.

The gas leak was the dried gasket under the gas level sensor. I pulled the tank and tightened the fasteners as much as I dared without stripping them, but the leak persisted. I decided to to wait and see if the rubber gasket would swell back up. I put a paper towel in it and I came and wiped it and inspected it all day. Finally, by evening it finally stopped leaking.

So I took for another ride for 5 miles. Everything working perfectly, except the back brake pedal location was too low....a consequence of the forward controls the PO was using.

I forgot to take a picture outside, but here is it is in the evening:



Later in the evening, I pulled the tank again, tightened all the cover screws especially the cam cover. I and installed the fairing. I readjusted all the stuff related to the rear brake pedal. Now it's all back together except for the bags!

It's only few hours of work before I can do some riding to shake it down in preparation for the rally.

[kboehringer]

New Gaskets Still Available at Partzilla

SNIP
The gas leak was the dried gasket under the gas level sensor.
SNIP

Mike,
FYI... You probably already know but that gasket is still available new from Yamaha/Partzilla.

GASKET, SENDER UNIT
2H7-85753-00-00
$9.71 IN STOCK

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...60be213e0aecc3

Kurt