Detroit Venturer Project

[Radioguylogs]

Priming the Oil Pump

Oil Galley Banjo Bolt

The Belmetric banjo bolt didn't work. It had 1.5mm thread pitch instead of 1.0 mm. Besides, I didn't like the oil flow path.

Finally, I found that there is a Yamaha part number for the right 30mm banjo bolt; it's on the oil pump parts diagram instead of the crankcase where I tried to find it. It's NLA, but I found one on e-Bay, so that will sort itself out.

Polishing

I have been polishing the aluminum parts. I only have 3 more to go. However, I chewed up my finger tips re-grouting slate tile over the weekend, so I am not able to work on the polishing for a few days.

Wiring

So I cleaned up the wiring to the rear Vetter trunk. Can't imagine why anyone thinks Scotch-lock is a reliable way to connect things.

Oil Refill

I also put the oil back into the final drive, the middle gearcase, and the crankcase.....which finally brings me to the point. I had the oil pan off to clean out the gunk, so it was dry. Consulting the FSM, I anticipated the refill to require 4.4 quarts of fresh oil. It was full after only 3.0 quarts. I know the oil filter cup will hold 0.5 quart, and there are other nooks an crannies to fill. So I used the starter to try to prime everything. It didn't move any appreciable amount of oil.

I have done this surgery before (i.e. the "Bagger"), and I can't remember:

Will the oil pump normally prime itself with the starter, or does the engine need to run?

I don't want to start it next month if the oil is not circulating.

[2manybikes]

Your cleaning and polishing efforts are quite impressive. I am enjoying your well documented post. Thanks for sharing your project.

[MPittma100]

Crankcase

Mike, 3 quarts is definitely short of capacity. Spinning engine with starter has already primed the pump, but running will send oil to everything else quickly. I would put a 4th quart in and then start it. The H holds a bit more than previous models with the addition of the cooler. Don't worry about the sight glass level until it has run for a bit. I put some oil in the filter housing prior to bolting it up when changing oil. Speeds up the process. Having spun the engine, you will be good to go. You may need to add a bit more than the remaining .4 of a quart due to having the pan off. That is normal.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Mike,
good to hear you are making progress. While the H holds a little more oil the cooler does not drain so unless you had it off it is already charged.
I tended to overfill mine when I followed the instructions. I would hold some back until it has run a bit. Then top up.

Phil

[motoman]

Mike, normal oil level pertaining to the Venturer only, just using sight glass for a reference, when full the oil level shows just at top of the sight glass when on centerstand and level horizontally and perpendicular.

[Radioguylogs]

Your cleaning and polishing efforts are quite impressive. I am enjoying your well documented post. Thanks for sharing your project.

Curtis:

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm getting lots of good help from the forum.

I still remember how enjoyable is was to see the KZ900 you brought to XSSE and the XS1100E or F you brought in past years.

Here's some more progress on my current project:



.

...and there's some minor bad news I'll post separately.

[Radioguylogs]

Leaky Stuff

Thanks to Mike P, MaximPhil, and Motoman for your input. I will overfill the oil a bit, but not too much before I start it in about a month. I'll trust the oil pump to get the blood flowing. I'll watch to to see the oil light comes off promptly after I start it.

Oil Leak

I had two setbacks in the past day. I did find an oil leak in the Right-Front corner of the oil pan. I found the bolts are snug, so I'll resist the temptation to torque harder on them, and instead I'll take it apart and figure what the problem is. I'll probably wait until I have a new strainer cover gasket in hand.

Leaky Brake Bleeder Screw

Also, I was disheartened to find brake fluid leaking form the Right-Front caliper:



I just repainted the calipers, so that's why it was disheartening. I always find there is some brake fluid left in the bleeder screw threads after bleeding the system. I wash it off after I get done bleeding, but still I find a little paint peeling around the bleeder 2-3 weeks later. It seems to wick out of the threads. So I clean them again and touch up the paint; then usually they are good to go indefinitely.

This bike was no exception. All three bleeders behaved like usual, and I had the paint retouched and thought I was done. Now this RH one seems like a trouble maker. There is no fluid inside the bleed screw (using pipe cleaner), so it came from the threads. I'll put a pipe cleaner around the base of the screw (like a twist-'em) to catch any new leakage and keep an eye on it until I can trust it and retouch the paint again.

[skids]

I did my standard (E) with the Venturer oil cooler system on it yesterday. I think it took about 4 quarts to get it to the max line in the window.

[MPittma100]

Oil pan leak

Mike, if you end up pulling the pan again to replace the gasket, buy some Copper Coat in a spray can and coat both sides of the gasket prior to install. Works very well. Use it on valve cover and other engine gaskets. No mess, no fuss. You will like it and use it often.

I have experienced needing to torque various cover bolts several times after initial tightening. Fastener torque needs to be checked after each heat cycle until they no longer move. It takes a while for the gasket to get happy.

Mike P

[Radioguylogs]

Thanks Skids. I did clean the oil out of the side covers and the around the cams, so... based on your experience I might need 4 gallons plus a little more.

Mike P: I find the valve covers are notorious to need re-tightening after 2,000 miles of heat cycles. It's a bigger job when the bike has a fairing.

I check the other covers, and I find a little tweaking is in order, but the other covers never leak like the valve cover does.

I'll look for copper coat, but I expect (hope) I never take the oil pan off this bike again. Sound like an especially good idea for the valve cover.

[Schming]

Oil Galley Banjo Bolt

The Belmetric banjo bolt didn't work. It had 1.5mm thread pitch instead of 1.0 mm. Besides, I didn't like the oil flow path.

Finally, I found that there is a Yamaha part number for the right 30mm banjo bolt; it's on the oil pump parts diagram instead of the crankcase where I tried to find it. It's NLA, but I found one on e-Bay, so that will sort itself out.

Polishing

I have been polishing the aluminum parts. I only have 3 more to go. However, I chewed up my finger tips re-grouting slate tile over the weekend, so I am not able to work on the polishing for a few days.

Wiring

So I cleaned up the wiring to the rear Vetter trunk. Can't imagine why anyone thinks Scotch-lock is a reliable way to connect things.

Oil Refill

I also put the oil back into the final drive, the middle gearcase, and the crankcase.....which finally brings me to the point. I had the oil pan off to clean out the gunk, so it was dry. Consulting the FSM, I anticipated the refill to require 4.4 quarts of fresh oil. It was full after only 3.0 quarts. I know the oil filter cup will hold 0.5 quart, and there are other nooks an crannies to fill. So I used the starter to try to prime everything. It didn't move any appreciable amount of oil.

I have done this surgery before (i.e. the "Bagger"), and I can't remember:

Will the oil pump normally prime itself with the starter, or does the engine need to run?

I don't want to start it next month if the oil is not circulating.

Take the spark plugs out and disconnect the coils from power, then the starter will cycle fast enough to prime the engine with oil and when the light goes out you're good.

P.S. shut the fuel off also.

[Radioguylogs]

Schming: That's sounds like a good idea. You've been successful with this approach?

[Schming]

Absolutely

Schming: That's sounds like a good idea. You've been successful with this approach?

Mike, my '80G was on this wheeled table for 6 to 8 years with the oil pan off and always had oil dripping from the gears. I adjusted the valves and brushed assembly lube on the cam before putting the cam cover on. Following the procedure I stated above, it took approximately two or three cycles of the starter engaged for no more than 10 to 15 seconds at a time, with a wait of a minute or two in between, as to not overheat the starter, to bring the oil pressure up high enough to shut the low oil pressure light off.

There is enough residual oil clinging to surfaces to protect while priming.

[motoman]

I did my standard (E) with the Venturer oil cooler system on it yesterday. I think it took about 4 quarts to get it to the max line in the window.

My original owner's manual that came with my bike when I bought it new. The Venturer model having the factory installed oil cooler states the Venturer model's oil capacity is 4.4qts. Using sight glass as a reference, that should put oil level just even with top of sight glass.

[Radioguylogs]

Schming:

That's the procedure I used (crank about 10-15 seconds, then rest; repeat), but I did it with the plugs in. When it gets time to start it in a few weeks, I'll try it again with the plugs out - just for piece of mind.

Your picture looks like a magical circus balancing act. I can't see how one would get a bike into that position or how it would stay balanced like that.

Motoman:

Got it! Thanks.