Valve Adjustment Pictorial

[LoHo]

Just so I'm clear, when the timing is right:
-the timing plate hash next to the T lines up with the pointer
-the EX and IN cam dots line up with the cam cap pointers
-the cam sprockets both show the bolt holes with the little tabs, the exhaust one slightly forward and the intake sprocket pointing slightly rearward.

Is that right?

[LoHo]

Sure enough...pointer at T, dots on arrows...neither tabbed sprocket hole showing.

[skids]

So I guess you are good to go! Right?

[LoHo]

Skids, I don't think so...the tabbed holes must be on top, If this thread is correct.

[skids]

I don't doubt that it happens where the allignment isn't perfect when the sprockets are "upside down." I just don't understand why it happens. Aren't the teeth on the sprockets even in number? If so, how can this occur? Does this mean that two sets of valves are going to be slightly out while the other two sets (relative to two cylinders at any given time) are going to be right on?

I wish someone would explain this to me because I have done the same thing as LoHo with my three xs11's. They do run well, but maybe not optimum? Steve, what is your take on this?

[crazy steve]

The reason for the 'identified' holes is cam timing. You can install them 'backwards' with no harm, but it will throw your cam timing off by a very small amount (a few degrees). This isn't enough to cause any problems, but also isn't 'optimum' either. To be honest, I haven't given it any thought as to which way it changes the cam timing, so many people may not even notice any difference. But small changes like this can move the power curve around quite a bit. You'd probably have to strap the bike to a dyno to see the differences.

The manuals don't mention this in any way, but all the pics (and every motor I've worked on) show the 'tabs' as noted...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

+1

Not knocking it Steve, just sayin' that all that work to change 2-5 shims (which is about all that's needed usually) seems a bit counter productive. Paticularly if you miscalculate the shim size and have to go back and correct yourself. Not to mention the other various things that could transpire during the process.

But, to each his own. I'll stick with the tool.

+1, no one any where I have seen recomend's taking so many chances with your motor and pulling so many things out of place and messing with the cam timining that if wrong, NEW MOTOR When it is sooooo easy to change shims with the MP tool I just striks me as funny that anyone who can pull cams and do major work can't seam to use such a simple tool, just shows how easy, isn't for everyone, just for the wise

[DAVINCI]

You got that a bit twisted, cause those of us who CAN do major motor work (and DO), well, we don't get it wrong.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Motor work

You got that a bit twisted, cause those of us who CAN do major motor work (and DO), well, we don't get it wrong.

I am guessing I have done as much motor work as most. I owned a garage and built racing motors and restored muscle cars for a living for many years. I have done the port and pollish of heads and CC'd them, and total rebuild of raceing motors, so I guess i could adjust my valves anyway I like In fact, it would be easyer to change my spark plugs on my race cars if I pulled the motor 1st I have just been talking to the members who havent rebuilt motors and don't have the experiance you have, less is more when it comes to un-bolting cam drive parts for some of them, glad you are so skilled and i am sure it is fun for you, could cost some there motor with less skill then you, think about them please

[crazy steve]

You're forgetting that either method has it's pitfalls. First, what if you're unlucky enough to get one of the MP tools that's not cast quite right and needs to be modded for proper fit? Will a novice have that knowledge? That's one of the reasons some of us don't like the MP tool. And if you turn a cam the wrong way to remove the tool after changing a shim, you can break a chunk of the gasket rail off the head; that's not exactly an easy repair.

I like the total access to all the shims at once that removing the cams offers. If you don't have an adequate assortment of spare shims, this can save a lot of time from shuffling shims one-at-time with the MP tool (or even if you do have the shims). It also lets you inspect the cams/bearings for wear, something the MP tool doesn't do. If you can read and carefully follow directions, there's no reason this method should be any more difficult than using the MP tool... as many here have demonstrated....

[jetmechmarty]

I wish I had used the MP tool. If I had, I would not have seen this.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Mp

I don't think many, or even any of the MP tools are defective. I am just now realalizing that many don't have the understanding of these motors and the skill level to use it, after all, it was made for use by a professional mechanic. It was easy for me, but the other way might be best for others, what ever works, good luck with your bikes

[DGXSER]

I don't think many, or even any of the MP tools are defective.

Au contrare mon frere, you need to rethink that. I have seen to many talented folks who have stated they needed to rework that tool from MP. IT is just a known fact at this point.

I have used such a tool, the one issued by Mommy Yammie. And as much as I appreciated the loan of the tool from a great guy, it sucked to use. It takes a lot of time and effort to get that bloody thing lined up properly. It is a one size fits all type tool, those never fit anything well.

[XS1100 Newbie]

I still use two chunks of bondo spreader, and a 1/4: tipped screwdriver, and take about an hour and a half to do my valves. Showed to me by an ex Yamaha service man. Very easy.

[jetmechmarty]

I still use two chunks of bondo spreader, and a 1/4: tipped screwdriver, and take about an hour and a half to do my valves. Showed to me by an ex Yamaha service man. Very easy.

Show me! I can't wrap my brain around how that might work.