Cleaning pistons and Valves

[trbig]

check how much [they call it ] white metal is left in your gudgeon pin hole top of conrod,[little end] check for slop with your old pin as well,you,ll have some wear[diagonal in the hole] as long as its not square to the rod,[up and down]

Ummmm... Huh?!?


Tod

[kirmit77]

Huh?!

g,day kermit, if your that far down in the motor check how much [they call it ] white metal is left in your gudgeon pin hole top of conrod,[little end] check for slop with your old pin as well,you,ll have some wear[diagonal in the hole] as long as its not square to the rod,[up and down] .worst comes to worst they can be re-metaled. as for the carbon go to your local auto store and buy a decarbonizing brush that fits in the end of your drill

I dont get it? white metal??? please explain and maybe some pics?

[BigDick]

g,day kermit, if your that far down in the motor check how much [they call it ] white metal is left in your gudgeon pin hole top of conrod,[little end] check for slop with your old pin as well,you,ll have some wear[diagonal in the hole] as long as its not square to the rod,[up and down] .worst comes to worst they can be re-metaled. as for the carbon go to your local auto store and buy a decarbonizing brush that fits in the end of your drill

It's australian, either you or the motor has to be upside down. Maybe both.

[kirmit77]

??

still dont get what yall are talking about.

[trbig]

Maybe ol' Dan (Stralya) will translate for us... lol.


Tod

[79XS11F]

The gudgeon pin hole is the small hole at the top of the con rod that the piston pin goes through. The piston pin hole in the piston is also a gudgeon pin hole. The piston pin is the gudgeon. This is based on a search for "gudgeon pin hole". I believe what he's getting at is that there should be no free play straight up and down in line with the con rod. I am not sure what the "white metal" part is about.

http://www.tpub.com/content/construc...373-34_249.htm

Rob

[wingnut]

The white metal he's talking about is the bushing material in the wrist pin hole on the connecting rod.

[kirmit77]

No play

there is no play in them at all and i think i ran reuse the rings. Should the rings be cleaned at all is my NEXT question...

I know... ya'll are gunna have to walk me through this.
But if you look at in my point of view.. well.. its worth it!

[kirmit77]

Rings

Take that back. The rings are at .584MM. That is the avg top ring gap.
Is that ok?

[DiverRay]

Take that back. The rings are at .584MM. That is the avg top ring gap.
Is that ok?

According to Yamaha, 2H7-28197-10 manual, the service limit is 1mm. Standard is .2 to .4 mm. I would go ahead and reuse the old rings. If you have NO freeplay that you can feel in the wrist pins, (gudgeon pin) then the bushing (white metal) is good in the small end of the con rod. With only 9,800 miles, even if the PO NEVER CHANGED THE OIL, you should be good with all the parts.
JMHO

[kirmit77]

good deal

Thanks DiverRay. The only thing that needs to be done is cleaning the pistons, honing the cylinders, and doing a valve job. Got it down to the bare frame and about to get it painted!

[trbig]

Just remember to VERY LIGHTLY hone them. Honing opens up the bore slightly and will widen the ring gaps even more. Then on initial startup, that cross hatch from the hone is going to wear those rings further. So just be careful with that honing and don't go crazy with it.

You are putting the same pistons back in the same hole.. right? And remember that the pistons have an arrow on top pointing to the front of the engine and they need to be put in that way.


Tod

[kirmit77]

honing

should i get rid of the carbon ring at the top of the cylinders before honing? and when you say very light hone like how long?

[DiverRay]

should i get rid of the carbon ring at the top of the cylinders before honing? and when you say very light hone like how long?

YES, You DO need to get ride of the ring in order to hone properly. A little bit of Berrymand B12 or Seafoam on a rag will get ride of most of it. Use the back side of a hacksaw blade to clean the rest of it.
To hone, just use the FINE stone with light oil for about 30 seconds per cyl. Do ALL 4 and THEN CLEAN WITH SOAP AND WATER(Dawn dishwashing soap works VERY WELL). Look for a series of lines going up and down, about 15 to 30 degree angle from top to bottom. If you see the fine lines, and no "bright" spots, you are good. If you have an area with a "bright" or shiny spot, you will need to hone a little bit more. It's best to UNDER HONE, as you can always hone it a little bit more. Remember to keep the hone moving up and down, from top to bottom, as the drill motor is turning.

[kirmit77]

drill

I have done honing on cars and thats it. i really just want to make sure everything goes good so how fast should the drill be going. slow, moderate, or a good bit??? also, i can still see crosshatching on the cylinder walls.... just to let you know.