begging new mod, need input

[DiverRay]

Chop,
No such thing as too much CCA. If you have more reserve, the battery will not be as stressed, and should last longer. You may be able to put in a smaller physical size battery. If it was me, I'd go with the one you are looking at.
Ray

[xschop]

Thanks ray

I will get definitly get this one then since the battery box is a fit...happy new year

[Dennyz]

Battery

What goes out, has to go back in! The XSs charging system is, not the most robust. Although I don't think a stronger battery can hurt anything (short term), it will take the XS a long to charge it back up if it has been drawn down. The best (IMHO) battery/charging system performance comes from a balanced system.

That's my $.02.

[xschop]

geezer' gizmo

Would geezer's regulator charge this battery quicker/more efficiently? Also have been browsing the Bay to kipe some upside down tubes/tree, Just need to know if anyone has/knows about the GSXR or R1 trees/forks fitment to the xs11....chop....Denny???

[DiverRay]

Geezers system DOES help. I have one on daily ride. Denny, as I know chop isn't putting on a lot of lights, or much else that will draw power, the battery should be fine. I agree if he does draw it down, it will take longer to get back up. but with the larger reserve, it probably WON'T be drawn down.
Ray

[xschop]

lil' bondo don't hurt

grinded,sanded and bondo-filled ugly welds on frame. Speaking of frame, lifted the rear three inches for my long legs and battery box won't meet Mr. Metzeler 190. Wires and electrics will fit nicely through upper tubes.Filled in chopped frame tube area where chain goes with POLYURETHANE RUBBER...

[Ken Talbot]

Gee, I dunno, xschop, I think I'd take the original ugly welds over those bondo'd ones..

Hey, just for info, when you're posting photos, it helps if you insert a carriage return or two between your text and first photo, then between each photo in your series. This spaces them out the way they look now instead of having all three jammed together side by each so you have to scroll all over the place to see them.

Keep up the good work!

[mro]

battery Basics?????

Drained battery, (sat awhile/long crank time?)
Means it will be drawing more amps, and take longer to recharge.

Longer time it takes to "recharge" hotter stock electric will get.
Reg/rectifier if handles it, does not mean that the skinny little alt wires won't melt with too large a batt.....

25% more cca batt could be trouble


mro
btw
looking forward to see your scoot w/rear tire mounted

[81xsproject]

The "carrage return?" Carefull Ken, you're showing your age a little

Chop, bondo doesn't have much flex. I would be worried about it cracking as these frames do flex a bit. I kind wanna clean up all the ugly welds and weld in some small braces (and then clean up my ugly welds )

[xschop]

bracing

After welding in the monoshock attachment parts and will use solid rear motor mounts, I'm not going to worry @ that. I am more worried about frying electrics with this honkin' battery. My SV650 tail-light should be here today so I can start my fiberglass sidecover/fender this weekend....thanks for all the replies...chop

[DiverRay]

Chop,
As you are probably going to replace a LOT of the factory wires, just use #10 marine grade for the charging side of things. You may have to replace the wires from the connector to the reg/rec. Geezer has almost all of the connectors and nylon connectors used on the XS, so the parts are available. The big thing is use a new wire from the battery to the ignition switch, as that is one of the weak points.
Just my $0.02
Ray

[xschop]

10#

u talking 10 gauge? I already have a stainless steele ground wire and planned on making all the major wires from SS.My electronics cache will be mounted flat under the seat so some wires may be a little longer/shorter....

[DiverRay]

That is what I was talking about. The only problem is if you use the stainless, you may want to go up (down) one size to 8 gauge. The marine wire is fully tinned copper, so it won't oxidize as fast as plain copper. The stainless will NOT carry the same voltage/current as the copper, and the resistance may be different. The reg/rec works off a feed line that comes back from the ignition switch, and if the resistance is higher, the output of the reg/rec may be too high.
Ray

[xschop]

ok

thanks, where do i get the marine grade 10#?

[DiverRay]

I buy mine from West Marine. Almost any good marine store can order it if they don't stock it. Also look into the marine grade heat shrink tube. It has a sealer on the inside, and makes a WATERPROOF connection.
Anchor is the wire company that makes the product, so you may have a local source for ordering.
Ray