Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[3Phase]

What oil do you use with the corset????

Only the best:

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Scott,

These youngen's probably don't get that anyways!?

SO...for those too young to get that reference, in the old days, like the 1800's or such,
the stiff ribbings/slats within women's corsets(an extreme Girdle) were made from Baleen/Whale bone. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corset

That particular OIL "came" from, was extracted/processed from Sperm Whale blubber.....not from some other liquid source!

They weren't just for women either!


T.C.

[MaximPhil]

Only the best:

Hi Scott,
I always thought the sperm oil was used...
after you got the corset off
was I doing it wrong?
Phil

[3Phase]

Before or after? That's one of those situations where the order of operations really doesn't matter. If it does then, yeah, you're definitely doing something wrong!


Anyway! Deviated whale jokes aside: no, corsets weren't just for women but their venerable antecedent the kidney belt is still used every day:-

Kidney Belt vs Corset

[motoman]

3Phase............yep it is(kidney belt).........and us serious moto-x racers used them every race.

[puskrat]

Is someone ready to NOT speak in whispers and innuendos? If so, I think the kidney belt is like a backbrace? I can see a racerider wearing one. I used to get a nasty crick in my middle back sitting on a bench jonboat seat, and a proper brace would support correct posture.

[puskrat]

zzzzzzz

"...long winter's nap..."

mirrors off. Soon to be replaced with the groovy rectangular turn signal-augmented mirrors. Guess I'll need a resistor betwixt the new mirror and the switch to avoid effectively shorting the turn signal circuit. Is my thinking correct here? Original thought was to tie in to signals nearer to OE lights. If I can recover them.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there rat,

You have the 80 SG so the left and right signals circuits are separate unlike the 79SF that uses one dash indicator light for both sides. But if you have the OEM signal flasher, then you will probably need to install an electronic 2 prong flasher, will loose self cancel feature but most folks just shut them off by pushing in the signal lever instead. But if you really want to keep self cancel, then search for led turn signals for threads about flasher circuit mod. Using resistors defeats the purpose of leads low power draw and also adds more fire risks due to heat with resistor. YMMV

TC

[puskrat]

My intent was to power the mirror signals off the original signal leads by tapping into the line. My new wisdom from TC discombobulates me entirely. dunno wat to do

wait. No. i have the 80 G

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Rat,

That's exactly what you want/need to do, run it from the OEM signal lines, but because they are LED's, they just don't draw enough current to activate the OEM Heat/thermal style flasher unit. That's why you need the electronic flasher that doesn't rely on a current load to function. But the oem flasher and circuitry with the self cancelling circuit won't work with a standard/electronic 2 prong flasher. The 3 prong auto flashers aren't not designed to work with the Yamaha self cancel circuity, that's why you only want to get and use a 2 prong unit.

A few members came up some fancy technique to be able to run LED's and retain the self cancel feature, but IMHO the self cancel isn't that critical of a feature, and I prefer to turn them off manually myself, and that's what I do with my LED signals and electronic flasher.

T.C.

[puskrat]

Some of what I planned I know is correct. Some I am now unsure of. Am I right in thinking series circuit? the low resistance of the LEDs should have negligible impact on the load, current draw, if I'm not mistaken. Am I? I'm also trying to factor in the "geography" of routing wires. If I go series, I can cut and splice in one spot.......

[motoman]

What T.C. was meaning is MORE resistance is needed than provided by LED's...... if self-canceler is expected to work.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again Rat,

I was hoping that Scott/3phase would have chimed in here by now? Brant/Motoman, that's what I thought I said....just in a different way!

Okay, so I'm assuming that you're keeping the OEM signals, and are wanting to splice into the lines to ADD the mirror signals as well as keep the OEM lights. The load that most LEDS put on a line is like 0.3 amps for a large array of leds, but as little as 0.03 amps. I tired to find out online how many ohms they have, but because they are DIODES, they don't behave like regular resistors. A value that came up was something like 13 ohms, but that seems quite high...yet when I plugged in the other values like watts/amps and voltage, the OHM calculator came up with 40 ohms!?

But like we've stated, they put a very small load on a circuit. They DO have a polarity (+) and (-) line, and when you put 2 loads in series the resistances are added together, but like you said....putting the LEDS on then end of the OEM bulb circuit...ie. run the green or brown wire to the OEM fixture's (+) line, then instead of running the OEM (-) to frame/ground, run it to the (+) line of the LED, and then run the (-) line of the LED to ground, and it should work just fine. If you keep the OEM incandescent bulbs in the OEM fixtures, then the self cancel circuit should still work.

If you were replacing the OEM fixture bulbs with LEDS, as well as the mirror lights, that's when you would NOT have enough resistance/load to activate the OEM thermal flasher as well as the self cancel system.

Tapping into the OEM lines and running a Parallel circuit will actually reduce the resistance/load on that line since the circuit would have 2 paths to ground=less resistance. Here's where the electrickery gets me....less resistance can cause increased current draw on that line.

Because I have the electronic flasher, when I put my mirror lights on, I'll be tapping into the signal line and running a parallel line to them since the amount of load doesn't matter.

Good luck.

[puskrat]

I'll be testing my way through. I'll report back when I have some success or when I can't get past the fail.

[3Phase]

I tried to reply earlier but Chrome crashed and disappeared so I shut down the computer, went outside and cut down the tree in the front yard instead of worrying about it.

Anyway, as T.C. suggested, just cut and splice a wye to connect the mirror LEDs in parallel.

Check the signal brightness and blink rate and if they're correct after the procedure then Robert is now your father's sister.