Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[puskrat]

A new subtopic in this omnibus "ask em as you find em" thread......I'm working on an 80G with 79 carbs (F I think) I've had a leaky petcock, and gasoil, so I know one of the carbs has been leaking. I also know there was rebuilding near my purchase. When (okay maybe if) I order jets, do I run off 79 or 80 spec?

[DiverRay]

You use the '79, as that is what the carbs are.

[puskrat]

Tanks Ray. Wasnt sure whether to go with that or with "well if this is what they changed to..." Actually this is one more reason for me to grumble about the P.O., who did the swap.

[puskrat]

My carbs are off!

[DiverRay]

COOL! Now keep all the parts for each carb in it's own place! The BIG thing with the '79 is the idle adjustment screw. The end is a sharp point, and can break off in the carb body. It's not fatal, but it DOES feel like it. Just follow directions in the repair thread and go slow. You should NOT need to take the bodies off the rack, just strip them down and use spray cleaner on them. You can use the tube on the cleaner to make sure each passage is clean, by spraying in one side and looking for the cleaner to come out the other side. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!
When you put the idle screws back in, just turn the screw driver by the shank, NOT the handle. This will keep you from over tightening them, and breaking the tip off.

[puskrat]

[puskrat]

Ive magic markered the bodies, the bowls and the diaphram caps. I don't think I'll do any disassembly til this evening or tomorrow. This work Ive been doing at my place of work, and I have to stop to deal with customers from time to time. Dont want to have that distraction, so will spend my Holiday weekend getting clean.

[Schming]

Hi Jeff, it's a good idea to dismantle on a designated table or bench on top of an old bath towel so the little parts don't vanish and make sure the screwdrivers you use fit the jets snugly. HTH

[3Phase]

Magic marker has a way of smearing and getting black stuff on you and the work area or it just plain disappears if you look at it wrong when you're cleaning carburetor parts.

You can use an electric pencil to write the numbers on the carburetor bodies and inside the caps and float bowls or use a small punch to make the appropriate number of small punch marks . .. ... .... on the forward outer edges of the mating flanges at the junction of the carburetor bodies and float bowls. You won't see the punch marks when the carburetors are on the engine but you'll never mix them up when you're working on them.

The caps don't matter if you mix them up but you can mark them too so you can keep parts in them while you work: dirty parts in float bowls, clean parts in the carburetor caps.


Don't forget to clean the Start Jets in the float bowls. Those little holes in the edges of the bowls where the brass tube from the carburetor body goes has a tiny jet at the bottom that gets plugged up. The jet has to be clean or the engine will be hard to start and idle when it's cold.

Happy cleaning!

.

[puskrat]

dirty parts in float bowls, clean parts in the carburetor caps.
y
.

Thanks. Great tip!

I anticpated the ink might not stand up to carb cleaner, pentrating oil, and other goodies it might meet, but I just fingered I'll not spray recklessly, and all will be well. Conversely, scribing numbers into the material just seems so....so....permanent.

[3Phase]

Try not to go all John Hancock with the punch or the pencil and it will work. Be patient and remember you're just marking the parts for yourself on the bench, not so they can be seen from space!

.

[MarkD]

Puskrat -- here's a roadmap if you're interested. It's really a good helper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95nlrP-yn2I

[motoman]

Ive magic markered the bodies, the bowls and the diaphram caps. I don't think I'll do any disassembly til this evening or tomorrow. This work Ive been doing at my place of work, and I have to stop to deal with customers from time to time. Dont want to have that distraction, so will spend my Holiday weekend getting clean.

Also, to add to what Ray stated, keep the floats and float needles to their specific carb to.

[Prothec]

I scratch the number using a metal pick into the inside of the bowl and the airbox side throat of the carb. If anyone wanted to remove it later, it could easily be polished out. The marking is for an added level of confidence. Just don't mix them up

[puskrat]

Carbs are broken into major subassemblies except for two stuck slides. I've never heard of such a thing. I've sprayed 'em down and left them for the night. Should I be worried? Do carb slides seize? Diaphrams look to be intact, and pretty fresh. They're apparently replacements, surely thicker than what I see in the repair threads and youtube vids. bowl gaskets are all losses. Expected.

Waiting to get all the slides out before disassembling any. Removed main jets and pilot jet "plug screws". Left while two painters were arguing back and forth about whether my PB, Sili lube, and two kinds of carb cleaner fumes were going to ruin their finishes.