Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[FranksBMW]

I just found and enjoyed reading your rebuild thread!
I'm currently doing the same. I've taken advantage of some unseasonably warm days in February and March to do some wrenching, but it's turned cold again.
Good luck going forward!

[timktm]

I find it interesting you have spent so much time and money so far, to not at least try to turn the engine over. Just me.

[puskrat]

Good point. Me too. Before I tried the starter I wanted oil. I had oil but wanted to fix the known fuel system problems before filling the crankcase and ruining the oil with gasoline. The known fuel system problems kept expanding to fill all the time available. Then an opening came at the painter, so the fuel tank went there. I had a new battery but let it set almost the whole winter uncharged, then tried to charge it to find out it was dysfunctional. Excuses? No, because I don't need to make any. Best course of action? Probably not. I didnt write up a to do list to follow, which may be my biggest problem.

I've been learning from your thread, too, Frank, so thanks!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Puskrat,

Have you already purchased a new battery?? You said you tried to charge it but it wouldn't charge. What was/is the voltage reading of the dead battery?? Did it keep the electrolyte level to normal the whole time, or did it dry out and expose the plates?

Modern battery chargers won't apply a charge if it senses the voltage below 10.5 or so. I let my AGM battery get discharged this last year, was down to like 3 volts! What you have to do is put it on a charger with ANOTHER battery in Parallel that is up to 12V, that way the charger will see the 12 volts and then send the charging power...but the weaker battery will accept/take the charging power mores than the strong one, and hopefully it will eventually bring the dead battery up to at least 11Volts where you can then put it on the charger ALONE and let it then complete the charging process....again at hopefully a 1Amp rate, but may have to use the 2Amp if that's the lowest yours will go. With a dead and possibly sulfated battery, you may not have anything to loose by using the 2Amp mode!

T.C.

[puskrat]

Hey Cat. Late to respond, sorry. Lots going on. I was on the 2A when the problem developed. I have ordered and received the battery BikerPhil recommended. It's on a maintainer now, about .75A. Be plugging it in later today after I test it up.

[puskrat]

Okay, so Ive got no lights on the dash. What do I test? There are loose connectors where the fairing used to be. Where can I score a schematic to educate me?

[bikerphil]

First check the main fuse, it is in a black rubber holder undet the left plastic side cover.

Wiring diagram....

http://www.xs11.com/images/stories/f...%20diagram.gif

[puskrat]

Good deal Phil. The Biker comes through again! Fuse was fine, but in the process of checking it I found a disconnection I'd made. Plugged back in, starter engages, engine turns. Now I just need fuel (and a painted tank) (oh, and I need to replace those lines and install the fuel valves and filters and...)

[puskrat]

CAnt tell everyone how much i appreciate everyone's help. Guess I should say I can't put it into words. It's not like it's secret or something. Life keeps crowing me back on what I can do, and this weekend I'll be falling back into that ADD trap, going to the CYCLESHOWCASESTL instead of wrapping up the wrenching on the DoraMax. Ah well. I'll blame it on the painter.

[puskrat]

SHOWCASE was pretty cool but I think it was a bit oversold. Nevertheless it was decent weather and a couple days out of the coop. Back to work on the dragon lady. I've forgotten from when i took her apart...does that fuel tank really just rest on that rubber grommet? I keep looking for something a bit more substantial to lock in. 1980 Standard.

[FranksBMW]

There are 3 rubber grommets only 1981. One at the back by the seat, 2 up front on the inside of the tank, one on each side.

[puskrat]

Yeah that. The two little grippers on the side in the front, and the hole in a hole "stay" in the back.

Sorry. Locating dampers and stay

[MaximPhil]

Yeah that. The two little grippers on the side in the front, and the hole in a hole "stay" in the back.

Sorry. Locating dampers and stay

Hi puskrat,
A single bolt, M8 from memory, with a large washer goes in the rear rubber mount to secure the tank to the bike. two rubber "doughnuts"(donuts) on the frame fit into "C' cups on the underside of the tank(in the tunnel)
remember to attach the 2 pin electrical connection for the fuel gauge , and lead the wire so it does not get pinched. Also connect a drain tube to the fuel overflow nipple.
This talk of C cups and nipples is quite exciting

Phil

[puskrat]

Thanks Phil.
Are we saying like a fender washer? I'm 98.7% sure I didnt have a bolt when I took the tank off, so I'll be fastener shopping at lunch for sure. thanks a billion

[puskrat]

Looks like its about 6.5 mm, so prob takes an 8 mm socket