Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[puskrat]

aha thanks Phil. I knew one of the gurus bouncing about here would know the answer. I had surmised the lower hoses were the wet ones, but I wasnt about to fill them with fuel gasoline until I knew for sure. Now what if there's no longer an airbox?

[puskrat]

And another thing......

Carb overflow hoses. Ive read about them. I've heard about them. I dont remember seeing anything in my manuals or here on this site. Does the XS have carb overflow lines?

[3Phase]

... Does the XS have carb overflow lines?

Yes, they're line of sight overflow lines.

When the carburetors overflow the fuel makes a line for the engine intake valves and contaminates the oil or it runs out the back and all over the floor, it depends on how the bike is parked.

Sometimes it does both so try not to let the carbs overflow.

[puskrat]

Yes, they're line of sight overflow lines.

When the carburetors overflow the fuel makes a line for the engine intake valves and contaminates the oil or it runs out the back and all over the floor, it depends on how the bike is parked.

Sometimes it does both so try not to let the carbs overflow.

I'm not sure I know what that means. Rather, I'm not sure how to prevent said overflowment. The gist of my question had to do with drain hoses that relieve the bowls if they overfill, and their proper routing. Is this a non factor with these bikes/engines/carburetors?

[3Phase]

The are no overflow hoses for XS/XJ1100s, that's why they're not shown in any drawings or service manuals.

Overflow fuel flows line of sight in whichever direction gravity lets the fuel see.

If the bike's on the center stand then the fuel makes a beeline for the engine and it can contaminate the oil. You won't notice it unless you check the oil level before every ride, even then it can be difficult to spot. Contaminated oil is too thin, it doesn't hold up and allows the bearings and cylinder walls to wear out or fail.

If the bike's on the side stand then fuel will mostly flow out the back of the carburetors and into the airbox or pod filters, then down to the floor. Hopefully, someone will notice it before the tank empties itself.


The only way to prevent fuel overflow is to drain all the fuel out of the tank after every ride.

That's not really practical so make sure there's some kind of fuel shutoff valve that doesn't leak -- manual, vacuum, whatever. Keep the carburetor float valves in good condition so they don't leak, they're the valves of last resort if the shutoff valve leaks.

If you use the center stand, check the oil level before you ride to make sure it hasn't begun to rise.

[motoman]

The are no overflow hoses for XS/XJ1100s, that's why they're not shown in any drawings or service manuals.

Overflow fuel flows line of sight in whichever direction gravity lets the fuel see.

If the bike's on the center stand then the fuel makes a beeline for the engine and it can contaminate the oil. You won't notice it unless you check the oil level before every ride, even then it can be difficult to spot. Contaminated oil is too thin, it doesn't hold up and allows the bearings and cylinder walls to wear out or fail.

If the bike's on the side stand then fuel will mostly flow out the back of the carburetors and into the airbox or pod filters, then down to the floor. Hopefully, someone will notice it before the tank empties itself.


The only way to prevent fuel overflow is to drain all the fuel out of the tank after every ride.

That's not really practical so make sure there's some kind of fuel shutoff valve that doesn't leak -- manual, vacuum, whatever. Keep the carburetor float valves in good condition so they don't leak, they're the valves of last resort if the shutoff valve leaks.

If you use the center stand, check the oil level before you ride to make sure it hasn't begun to rise.

.....and if not riding for a bit with bike parked on centerstand, put a short piece of 2"x4" under front wheel. Least that way, if an unexpected overflow/leak occurs, it runs out back of carbs and onto floor and not forward into cylinders contaminating and totally reducing/eliminating needed internal lubrication for ALL moving internal parts, bearings etc..

[puskrat]

WHEW. thanks guys. When I saw it referenced today in a Youtube vid, it dawned on me I'd seen/read/heard conversation about overflows (besides the tank) but not seen anything in our discussions on the site or in my manuals or parts blowups. Thanks again for the tips. i'd hate to do this whole carb rebuild, petcock replacement, etc to stop fuel from getting into my oil then end up losing to this.

[motoman]

WHEW. thanks guys. When I saw it referenced today in a Youtube vid, it dawned on me I'd seen/read/heard conversation about overflows (besides the tank) but not seen anything in our discussions on the site or in my manuals or parts blowups. Thanks again for the tips. i'd hate to do this whole carb rebuild, petcock replacement, etc to stop fuel from getting into my oil then end up losing to this.

Most welcome......also, ask your questions on here, from real professionals, and avoid that You-Tube nonsense. It'll just lead you down that perverbial 'rabbit hole'.

BTW, we don't mind any question you may have. We definitely don't think someone is stupid for asking. Only stupidity...... is questions NOT asked!

[puskrat]

here we go: Does anyone have a clue what size these jolly tank badge mounting screws are? I picked up two pair of 3mm flat socket heads. That is the wrong size.

[3Phase]

XS11.com | Tank emblem screws

They are M4 x 0.7

Total length 6.3mm, 4mm threaded

[puskrat]

XS11.com | Tank emblem screws

youre a lifesaver

[puskrat]

grabbed a "handi pak" of 4mm flatheads which turned out to be too long. bent the badge mounting tabs on the tank in the process of learning of the length fail. used some leftover fuel line to run my overflow drain to earth. Need to run next door for a can full of iso octane, adjust my battery clamping mount, and I think I can start doing things like checking coils rectifiers and alternators, and tearing through the bird's nest of wiring formerly hidden behind my fairing. OH and evaluating my previous carb work and petcock installs. Still not sure if the Venturer fairing goes back in or if a windshield replaces it, and with or without windshield, what happens with the rectangular headlight in my parts pile.

[puskrat]

Okay so I've gathered from my reading the first thing I need to do after refreshing my carbs is adjust my valves. How likely am I to consume head cover bolts during this process, and what other than a gasket should I order before I start disassembling? What's my next routine task? Is it cam chain tensioner time?

[FranksBMW]

May as well do the cam chain tensioner while you wait for valve cover gasket (if you're ordering). Place bike on centre stand is what I've read to be important.

[3Phase]

... How likely am I to consume head cover bolts during this process, and what other than a gasket should I order before I start disassembling?

You shouldn't mess up any bolts unless someone went crazy on them, the torque's only supposed to be 1 m/kg or 7.2 ft/lb (86.4 in/lb).

Gaskets are spendy. You can use Permatex The Right Stuff or something similar to seal the cover or you can buy a gasket, it's up to you.

I keep the Yamaha gasket on a shelf with some other gaskets to use as a template. Trace the gasket on a roll of gasket material from the parts store, cut it out and punch the holes with a hole punch.

What's my next routine task?

Proceed to tidy up with care.

Is it cam chain tensioner time?

Like Frank said, you might as well while the valve cover's off.
Put the bike on the center stand before you try to adjust the chain tension so it doesn't droop down and fall off to one side of the gear on the crankshaft. If that happens, it'll seem to adjust and tighten the chain but since it's not really on the crank sprocket you'll destroy the valves when you turn the crankshaft and the camshafts don't turn with it.