What did you do to your bike today?

[CatatonicBug]

Rode across town and picked up a spare tank badge, a '80-'81 Special grab bar and a set of Special chrome handlebars for $5! That and the tank of gas it took to get there and back, but at least I got to ride those miles.

I put the handlebars on mt XS850, replacing the rusted mini-apes the PO put on it, and replaced all the fuel vacuum lines on both the 850 and the 1100. I hope to get new LED lightbulbs for my speedo/tack in the mail tomorrow!

[Bulldog9]

Decided to take a half day off today and give the bikes some love.

On my XS11 I pulled the front forks, changed the oil seals, cleaned the tubes out, and installed the progressive springs I've had in my box for about 8 years. While doing this I greased the steering bearings, thoroughly cleaned everything on the front fork, including cleaning and regreasing the speedometer cable. I also changed the oil, and topped off the center and rear diff oils, and went for a quick test ride.

On my XS750 I changed the oil and topped off the middle and read diffs. The FJR looked on with envy.....

[jwhughes3]

just..

Rode it.

John

[cywelchjr]

I was looking and noticed that I had cracked nipples, so I put new ones on. The one on #4 carbs sync barb came apart in my hands when I went to take it off. It's a little annoying, those were brand new when I put this engine in and synced the carbs cause the ones that were on then were dry and came apart when I took them off to do the sync.

I'm kinda pissed at having to replace these things every 1.5 years. Maybe I'll just get some vacuum line, stick a ball bearing in it and put that on there like Fred says to do, it would probably last longer than these pieces of crap.

Well, maybe these will last longer, I got the last ones from Kragen auto parts from the help isle, these I got from Napa from behind the counter, so I hope that means they are higher quality. They better be, I paid more for two of them than I did for a package of 10 last time (of which I put two on and then promptly lost the other eight) ok, about the same, but you get the point, of course generally most stuff you get from Napa is of a higher quality generally anyways.

[motoman]

The heavier wall and quality IS better with the ones from NAPA! Lose one or more of those or badly leaking pulling air out on a LD ride on the slab WILL ruin your ride and the one your aboard!.......holed piston, etc. Good eye there Cy! I buy the long ones and clip a bit off each time I remove and find the heat from the brass has made them a tab stiff and not as pliable.

[motoman]

I was looking and noticed that I had cracked nipples........................................... On that note, I really don't wanna know Cy!

[jwhughes3]

Don't forget the Bag Balm ...

the Bag Balm was developed for cracked nipples...


John

[TopCatGr58]

Prepping for the XS East rally

Well, this past week I've been playing with Godzilla trying to get it ready for my modest LDR and XS East Rally this coming Memorial Day Weekend.

I drained the 10 y/o Real Yamaha Fork Lube oil....I only ride my bike for fun and rallies, not a daily rider, to only had ~12k miles since the rebuild in 2000. But boy did that oil STINK! Pulled the fork caps, checked the springs...still OEM specs, replaced the 4" spacers with 5" ones to get a little better preload stiffness, along with about 50 cc more fork oil....er.... DexronII ATF fluid to also help reduce the braking DIVE action!

Finally took apart my left 55watt AUX light...found the wires to the accent light bulbs totally melted/separated, got 2 new mini bulbs and soldered them to the wires and put them back in. THEN...the single pole double throw heavy duty switch BROKE from corrosion/weather exposure. Picked up a new one from Radio Shack, replaced it, but found no power to the power switch wire? Followed wires, and found the 15amp inline fuse in the circuit that I had forgotten was there....it was BLOWN, replaced, and viola, have AUX lights again!

Will possibly clean/wash and polish the aluminum bags and trunk this weekend, and collect the tools and such I need to carry and get packed just in case of a breakdown on the road!

T.C.

[natemoen]

the Bag Balm was developed for cracked nipples...


John

actually it is for the teats and udder.

[TopCatGr58]

McMaster-Carr has the right stuff!

Hey Cy and folks,

I did a search and found this stuff on McMaster-Carr. I've worked with Silicone tubing in the medical field, and have "borrowed" it from used surgical packs and stuff, it's quite strong and durable...especially the HEAT part! See specs and prices below....of course S&H would be extra!

I went out and measured the "nipple", it's appx. 0.19" or ~5mm diameter.
I selected the thinnest walled version they showed, but they had thicker availble.
T.C.

Type High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Firm Tubing
Rubber Silicone
Material Silicone
Shape Single Line
System of Measurement Inch
Outside Dia. 5/16" (.3125")
Inside Dia. 3/16" (.1875")
Wall Thickness 1/16" (.0625")
Reinforcement Unreinforced
Maximum Pressure Range, psi Under 100
Maximum Pressure 20 psi @ 72º F
Low Temperature Range -99° to -1° F
High Temperature Range +301° to +500° F
Operating Temperature Range -94° to +392° F
Bend Radius 5/16" (.3125")
Durometer Range 51A-70A (Soft)
Durometer (Soft) 70A
Durometer 70A (Soft)
For Use With Air and Beverage and Food and Water
Fittings Used Barbed
Specifications Met American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
FDA Specification CFR21 177.2600
ASTM Specification ASTM D2000 M7GE 707

These 4 products match your selections:

Color Opaque Black 51135K172 1-99 Ft. $0.88 Per Ft.

Opaque Red 5236K64 1-99 Ft. 0.88 Per Ft.

Semi-Clear Blue 51135K171 1-99 Ft. 0.88 Per Ft.

Semi-Clear White 51135K74 1-99 Ft. 0.88 Per Ft.

[jwhughes3]

thats what nipples ARE

actually it is for the teats and udder.

Aren't nipples the teats and udder? (OK just teats the boob is the udder)



John

[cywelchjr]

I got the new Conti Milestone tire mounted on the front, and changed the oil and filter (in the engine not in the tire (pre-emtive strike here)). Sure was easy with the spin on filter, and pretty much no mess. Just had the oil pan under the filter, spun it off and let it catch the oil and filter as it dropped off. Popped the drain plug out (the filter gets in the way a little bit, so it's easier to change the oil and filter together which is my preference anyways) and drained the oil. Popped the drain plug back in, spun the new filter on (with clean oil on the seal of course) and spun it up tight and poured the 3 liters of oil into the crankcase.

Then proceeded to prove the "you always do something wrong" adage by starting it up to bring the pressure up and circulate the new oil and check for leaks and left the fill cap off. Got a nice film of oil drops on everything on the right side of the bike. After having a few choice words with myself, I put the cap back on, put the bike on the center stand (figure that save me a LOT of mess), wiped things down with a damp soapy rag followed by a damp non soapy rag, and checked the level, it was good.

Now, next week, the good soaking in purple power for all the engine/frame parts (don't use it on the tins, don't want to damage the paint) followed by a good rinse and a wash (semi-annual bath, the bikes a redneck don'tcha know) getting ready for my HS alumni ride on the 4th. I may even clean and polish up the exhaust a little.

[Flatlander]

rear brakes

Well the rear brakes were hanging up every now and then, so did a search on the easiest thing to do first. Clean the spooge hole.

Took the MS apart. Cleaned. Wired out the spooge hole. Which once I did oil came out from the back pressure and the rear wheel was much easier to turn. Cleaned. Put things back together. Filled MS with DOT 3. No pedal pressure. Tried to bleed, no luck. Tried hand vacuum pump, no luck (threads are too coarse, just sucks air by threads). Let set......have a cold one (the XS really likes that!). Tried manually bleeding again, this time it worked.

I would just like to say that this job is well explained in the repair/brakes section (I think), much thanks!

[rpgoerlich]

Had a front valve cover start leaking. It's been 5kmi since the rebuild.
Pulled the fairing, oil cooler, fairing mount and removed valve cover. Checked valve clearances, all in spec except #3E@ .16mm, Re-shimmed it to .21mm. Adjusted carb's and re-synced them. Went for a quick 50mi ride.

Had done the FD swap and new clutch plates a few weeks ago. I'm really liking it. Cruises nicely at 65 now. Noticed a 2mpg increase city/hwy.

[CaptonZap]

actually it is for the teats and udder.

A nipple by any udder name, would be a teat.
Shakesphere. CZ