Clutch replacement

[jetmechmarty]

I’m going to replace my friction plates and springs. Is there a good reason I can’t or shouldn’t do the job on the sidestand? I would prefer to leave the basket in place if it looks OK. Will the sidestand lean it far enough that I won’t have to drain the oil?

[bikerphil]

Check for wear on the basket and the boss where the frictions and steels contact. A high mileage bike will probably show some grooving. The oil level should be low enough to not have to drain with it on the sidestand.

[DEEBS11]

You might want to replace the kickstart seal when you replace the side cover gasket.

[jetmechmarty]

You might want to replace the kickstart seal when you replace the side cover gasket.

My ‘80 bike has no kickstart parts. No shaft seal.
I definitely need to give the sight glass a good cleaning.

[cajun31]

My ‘80 bike has no kickstart parts. No shaft seal.
I definitely need to give the sight glass a good cleaning.

I don't want to speak for Deebs but he may be talking about the seal on the cover where the kick starter would be. 1980 Yamaha XS1100 OEM Clutch Cover | eBay

[jetmechmarty]

I don't want to speak for Deebs but he may be talking about the seal on the cover where the kick starter would be. 1980 Yamaha XS1100 OEM Clutch Cover | eBay

Ah. Thanks!

[bikerphil]

Some pics of refurbishing the boss and basket...

[jetmechmarty]

No filing was necessary. It’s all buttoned up. I’ll test it in the morning. If it tests OK maybe I’ll spend the whole day checking it out.

[jetmechmarty]

I’m on a 250 mile loop breaking it in. It feels like the stack is too tall. Shifting is hard. A couple times I had to shut the engine off to get to first while stopped. I made a cable adjustment along the way. It feels right. I’m 91 miles from home. I’ll report back.

[Larrym]

"Repair Verification Rides/Flights" be like..... ٩(＾◡＾)۶



GO Marty.... GO! (＾▽＾)

[jetmechmarty]

There’s never time to do it right, but there’s always time to do it over.

When I bought my bike in 2003 it indicated that it had 10,000 miles on it. I assumed the clutch was original. It wasn’t. The steel plates have dimples in them. So I put it together and rode 200 miles. The bike is pulling forward with the clutch pulled all the way in. Shifting is difficult. If I’m late downshifting I have to shut the engine off to change gears. I can’t adjust this out. Also, it’s slipping far worse than before. I’ll have to fix it before I ride it again.

[bikerphil]

The factory steels have dimples in them. What frictions did you use? Hopefully not Vesrah.

[DiverRay]

Did you start with the adjustment UNDER the cover? Loosen the 12mm lock nut, turn the phillips head in till you feel it drag, then back off 1/4 tune and tighten the lock nut. Do this with the clutch cable very loose, like it will not engage. When done, you then adjust the clutch cable for about 5 to 10mm play at the end of the lever before it starts to pull.

[DEEBS11]

Not sure this is a materials issue. The clutch seems to be binding and has a fair amount of drag so the gearbox does not shift smoothly. It's not fully releasing when the lever is pulled in. It could be the assembly binding on the "fingers" of the basket. It could be the pressure plate "star" binding because the springs were tightened slightly lop-sided. It could be the stack of plates and pads are out of sequence. You'll find it. Gasket should still work as it's only been one ride.

[jetmechmarty]

The factory steels have dimples in them. What frictions did you use? Hopefully not Vesrah.

Yes, Vesrah.