Street fighter/ Bobber build 2.0

[jetmechmarty]

Anyone use the Evapo-rust with success need to do my tank as well?

I used Metal Rescue. I believe it's very similar. Since Home Depot has it now, I won't be switching. Why fool with success?

[Fearthepack]

How long do the parts remain rust free if nothing else is done afterwords?

[jetmechmarty]

How long do the parts remain rust free if nothing else is done afterwords?

Unprotected in a damp basement; about ten minutes. In the Arizona desert; a lot longer. It also depends upon the composition of the metal. Metal Rescue has a product that you spray on the bare metal that will keep it from rusting for up to a year. Once again, that depends entirely upon the environment. On a head bolt, it will probably work fine for a few days.

If you don't want steel to rust, you will have to plate it, paint it, or otherwise cover it with a barrier to protect it.

[CaptonZap]

Opinions please... how long would wire wheeled head bolts stay this way or return to old rusty nuts?

http://sharkhide.com/






CZ

[Fearthepack]

Sharkhide very interesting product. I wonder if the nuts could be torqued after application? Says it stays flexible won't chip or peel....

[CaptonZap]

Sharkhide very interesting product. I wonder if the nuts could be torqued after application? Says it stays flexible won't chip or peel....

Personally, I take a Q-tip and use it to paint the nut after it is FINAL torqued. Chipping and peeling is not the same as being smashed.
Takes more time, but I figure that the nut is not going to be abused for many thousands of miles, so the coating will not be broken till then.


CZ

[Fearthepack]

Good point!

[Fearthepack]

Anyone know how much change in valve clearance after re-lapping the valves..... I know it's speculative...... I don't have a valve tool so may have to install and tear down a couple times

[3Phase]

Well, the change in valve shim to cam lobe clearance after lapping the valves really depends on how much you lap the valves. I know, "Duh!" Unless you totally chimp out on the head the clearances shouldn't change all that much, maybe a shim size or two.

You'll have to check the clearance again in at most couple of thousand miles because the valves will seat all over again after lapping.

.

[DiverRay]

As a thought, when I did the ENGINE in Special Ed's bike, I set the valves up very loose. I think a few were 1/2 shim too loose, but it just made a little extra noise at first. The engine has quieted down quite a bit in the 3K miles Ed has put on it. I need to re-check clearance, but it should be OK.(famous last words...) I'll probably check it in about four to six weeks, once Ed is able to ride again.
I DID install cams ONE AT A TIME to check the valves, All intake then all exhaust. I then shimmed them just looser than the '79 spec., as I know they will tighten up as the valves seat in. This was all done BEFORE installing the head, of course.

[Fearthepack]

Ok got the cams, sprockets and timing chain installed dots lined up yes...sprockets arrows up yes...full rotation every things a go....rechecked clearances and most widened in clearance by .001-.002 after lapping the valves so that answers one of my previous questions....

Lucky for me shifting the shims around gets me in spec in both Ex and In...

Purchased the motion pro shim tool so have to find the trick to its use wish me luck......

[DiverRay]

Trick for the tool:
1. rotate bucket you need to pull shim from so slot is toward center of head. this is for the screwdriver you need to pop the shim out with.
2. rotate engine so cam lobe has compressed valve all the way. NOTE THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION!
3. insert tool so the tip is on the bucket, and back of the tool is touching the head. Install the screw to hold tool in place.
4. SLOWLY rotate crank so cam lobe rotates to center of head, and away from the tool.
5. Once cam lobe is pointing up, 180 degrees from cam bucket, STOP!!
6. Use a small screw driver to "pop" the shim out of the bucket. I use a magnet on the driver to help remove the shim.
7. Put new shim in bucket, and push down to seat it in the oil.
8. Rotate crank BACKWARDS so cam lobe pushes down on bucket.
9. STOP once the bucket is most of the way down, and the cam lobe is CLOSE BUT NOT TOUCHING the tool.
10. Remove screw that is holding tool, and remove tool.
11. Rotate crank by hand a couple of rev's the correct direction, and recheck clearance.

[Fearthepack]

Thank you sir that is pretty much what I had in my mind the only thing that wasn't clear to me was #8. rotating crank BACKWARDS wasn't sure if this was allowed in any procedure....

[Fearthepack]

Is the HOSE that comes out of the timing cover just regular vacuum hose or something special?

[Fearthepack]

Did the ACCT upgrade from an Venture that works slick as hell.... Thank you to the original creative mind for this swap!!!!!