Street fighter/ Bobber build 2.0

[skids]

In case you need some stock used valves/springs/clips/. I have two complete 78E sets left in the parts pile. A set of eight shipped by us priority mail $40, send me a private message if interested , thanx andreas

That is a heck of a deal Andreas.

[andreashweiss]

valves

In case you need some stock used valves/springs/clips/. I have two complete 78E sets left in the parts pile. A set of eight shipped by us priority mail $40, send me a private message if interested , thanx andreas

[skids]

I would think the valve clearances would be way larger than normal on bent valves.

True, once they are already bent and don't seat properly the shim clearance will be big. I was speaking of possibilities of not having all bent valves if shim adjustments are loose -- however I am not sure that it would prevent valve-to-valve striking...

[bikerphil]

I would think the valve clearances would be way larger than normal on bent valves.

[skids]

PS, if valve shim clearances are tight there is more of a chance for valve contact and bent valves....

[skids]

PS, if valve shim clearances are tight there is more of a chance for valve contact and bent valves....

[skids]

From what you stated in the previous post:

"Lets check for compression pulled #1 plug put finger over the hole cranked it over nothing, nothing WTF checked 2,3,4 and nothing. I have no compression at all. Could explain the fuel getting blown out the carb no suction to draw it into the cylinder. "

Tells us that you have at least bent 4 valves, one in each cylinder, minimum.

You're getting fuel back through the carbs through the bent intake valves.

You may not want to rotate the engine as it may cause further damage.

Pull the head and see what the damage is.

Although it could be a possibility to have 4 bent valves, It might not be. If the valves are open during the compression stroke due to chain slip, there may not be bent valves on every cylinder. However, he did say that there was interferrence while turning the crank, so I suspect there will at least be one or two.

[Schming]

Thanks...and I did the ACT upgrade a while ago so a little more worried now and when I removed it its was engaged.
Although i understand how things work I have no life experiences to go with it...So should I automatically assume bent valves and will it be just one on both intake and exhaust or more. What procedure 1st to last do I follow? reset timing and pray or just remove the head and dissemble all valves and fix as needed. I just don't know what to expect at this point. I think i'm moving backwards!

From what you stated in the previous post:

"Lets check for compression pulled #1 plug put finger over the hole cranked it over nothing, nothing WTF checked 2,3,4 and nothing. I have no compression at all. Could explain the fuel getting blown out the carb no suction to draw it into the cylinder. "

Tells us that you have at least bent 4 valves, one in each cylinder, minimum.

You're getting fuel back through the carbs through the bent intake valves.

You may not want to rotate the engine as it may cause further damage.

Pull the head and see what the damage is.

[Fearthepack]

Thanks Skids.
Both #3 valves are creaking in the seal when rotating the motor this could be a clue or maybe not. I did lap the valves and new seals on rebuild. Thanks for some direction.

[skids]

OK, I’ll bite. Adjust your cam chain for correct timing. Then do a compression check. At least you will get an idea which cylinder’s valves are affected. You will not know however if it is the intake valve, exhaust valve, or both for the low compression cylinder. Price-out a head gasket, a valve cover gasket, valve seals (these things can come in a top-end gasket kit), and possible valves affected. You will not know which valves until you pull the head and check for solvent leakage with the valves all closed. OK, now that the head is pulled, may as well lap those valves with grinding compound and replace the valve seals. Also keep in mind that you may have to replace some of the valve bucket shims to get the clearances right.

On the other hand, you MIGHT be able to find a replacement engine that has been tested for compression, that doesn’t burn oil, and fits your bike for much less time and trouble.

[Fearthepack]

Thanks...and I did the ACT upgrade a while ago so a little more worried now and when I removed it its was engaged.
Although i understand how things work I have no life experiences to go with it...So should I automatically assume bent valves and will it be just one on both intake and exhaust or more. What procedure 1st to last do I follow? reset timing and pray or just remove the head and dissemble all valves and fix as needed. I just don't know what to expect at this point. I think i'm moving backwards!

[DiverRay]

If you still have the "factory" cam adjustment on the engine, that is probably what bit you! Make sure you get a ratchet type adjuster for the cam when you put things back together! The 6mm bolt just does not hold the plunger when you do a quick de-acceleration. This has caused a few engines to need valves.

[bikerphil]

Yes, the crank pointer should be at 'T' when the cam dots line up with the arrows on the caps.

[Fearthepack]

Fuel to lower carb T is correct..
Tapping float BOWLS while filling yes every time...


Houston we have a problem!!!!

This sentence got me thinking...."Just seems like the carbs are not delivering fuel into the motor but instead throwing it out the back."
If spark plugs are dry why is the fuel not making into the cylinder?
Lets check for compression pulled #1 plug put finger over the hole cranked it over nothing, nothing WTF checked 2,3,4 and nothing. I have no compression at all. Could explain the fuel getting blown out the carb no suction to draw it into the cylinder. IMO
Lets All shed a tear about now.

I removed the carb boots and exhaust looking for foreign stuff (rags, paper towels ect but nothing. Removed the valve cover, timing chain still on and turning as well as cams rotating and lifters moving BUT when turning by hand the motor gets hung and won't rotate, a slight bump with the starter and can rotate more.

At this point the damage is done.
What i believe has happened is the timing chain has skipped a few teeth and now the timing is off. When turning the motor by hand at some point I believe the piston is bumping into the open valves and it takes the starter to compress the springs to rotate further. I'm sure some bent valves are going to be present.

Trying to figure if timing is off... so when I line up the cam dots to the cam arrow caps the timing wheel is pointing to 60* while #1 piston is all the way to the top of it's stroke. Other way is #1 piston is all the up and timing wheel pointing to the"T" symbol the Dots are past the cam arrows and the dots are at 2 o'clock....I'm getting a little punchy but shouldn't the "T" on the timing wheel be pointed to while the dots are lined up with cam arrows.

[xs11lover]

Are you 100% sure the fuel supply lines are going to the LOWER carb T's and not the upper venting T's?

Ha! I’ve done that......twice!