I can't get my carb's tuned properly with exhaust and pods. ):

[BA80]

Gotta agree with Potter here Dylan.

You need to take the calipers and master cylinders apart and clean them. What size is the bore of the front MC you got?

The type and age of the pads can make a big difference on braking power also. My SG I can almost do stoppies with everything stock (including lines) on the front with everything working properly and with the cintered pads. My SF with everything the same as the SG except aged organic pads was a bear to stop with the front brake.

Just sayin'.

[Prisoner6]

Dude, fix your brakes before you go on the road. Going fast is great but stopping is essential.

Gotta agree with Potter here Dylan.

You need to take the calipers and master cylinders apart and clean them. What size is the bore of the front MC you got?

The type and age of the pads can make a big difference on braking power also.

+2, Duwayne and Greg ...

Before you go out and road test the power and torque of your engine, every component of your braking system (MC's, calipers, pads, lines, etc.)

should be in tip-top shape. What good is it to have a bike that goes like a scalded dog, but can't stop quickly and safely?

It's just not worth the risk, IMO ... We all don't want you to become a traffic statistic ... that's why we hammer relentlessly on the braking issue.

[Prisoner6]

P.S. Relative to the power these engines make, the factory brakes were mediocre, so it's essential they be in the best condition possible.

[BA80]

P.S. Relative to the power these engines make, the factory brakes were mediocre

According to the standard today, back then they were top of the line. Now they ARE substandard.

[Prisoner6]

According to the standard today, back then they were top of the line. Now they ARE substandard.

Greg,

While I do agree that the brakes were considered top of the line back then, IMO, even when properly set up to factory spec, they are not

capable of properly handling the power of these Eleven engines. They need some help, such as SS lines, etc. JMHO ...

[BA80]

Guess you missed the point of my statement.

I was simply stating that when these bikes were built this was the best that was available at that time as was the ignition, fuel system, and suspension.

[crazy steve]

Like the reviewers said... 'The XS11 can stop, go, and corner well... just not more than one thing at a time'.....

[3Phase]

Dylano,

Dood ur sew gng 2 di1 1111


Steve,

He's got an XJ, isn't that closer to an R1?

.

[Dylano*]

Just so you all know.
OBVIOUSLY, I'm going to take care of the breaks before I actually go riding.
However I feel perfectly comfortable doing test rides around the block to try and get it running right.

There are no cars, the speed limit is from 15mph to 25mph, and I don't go fast.
It stops good enough to stop from 20mph in a short distance.

I understand everyone's concern, but I am extremely cautious!
(:

[Prisoner6]

,

Guess you missed the point of my statement.

I was simply stating that when these bikes were built this was the best that was available at that time as was the ignition, fuel system, and suspension.

I understand what you're saying, Greg ... That's why I qualified my previous statement with "Relative to the power these engines make ..."

Sometimes I'm not very good at transferring my thoughts to paper ... I guess the idea I was trying to convey with my recent posts is this:

No matter how good these brakes supposedly were at the time the Elevens were first released, IMO the XS11 brakes, as delivered from the factory,

do not slow/stop this beast of a motorcycle as well as they should ... and in that sense, with regard to the engine's power,

they're mediocre. A motorcycle's brakes should be able to easily overpower the engine's power, and these do not.

The chassis/suspension/brake technology installed on the big-bore Japanese inline-fours of that era was simply not "on pace"

with the engine technology of that same era. Don't get me wrong ... I absolutely love my SF, but when finances allow,

I will, at the very least, be installing SS brake lines ...


Wait ... wasn't this a carb thread ... or something like that?

Sorry, Dylano* ...

[Yahman]

Dylano,

YICS:

You can leave the YICS tool in the cylinder head. The only problem I've heard about from doing that is the rubber on the tool melting or turning gooey over time and making a mess in the YICS passages.

.

You must be referring to the DIY tool, the O-rings that come with the YICS Eliminator will withstand any temp that the engine can handle.

Larry

[Yahman]

ALSO

Does anyone have the specs of that yics tool?
I could whip that up pretty easily on the lathe if I had dimensions,
Just looks like a tube with some o-rings!

That's Top Secret!

Like most things that look simple, it's not. There's a bit of engineering and development that has gone into the YICS Eliminator.

Ride safe,
Larry

[3Phase]

Just so you all know.
OBVIOUSLY, I'm going to take care of the breaks before I actually go riding.
However I feel perfectly comfortable doing test rides around the block to try and get it running right.

There are no cars, the speed limit is from 15mph to 25mph, and I don't go fast.
It stops good enough to stop from 20mph in a short distance.

I understand everyone's concern, but I am extremely cautious!
(:

That's great! We all cautiously plan our wrecks too! <double-raise eyebrows>

Bigfoot had a brake problem and fractured his leg whilst riding slowly and trying to be careful because his daughter was with him.

I dumped my bike the other day at less than 5 MPH going out of my driveway and ended up sitting on my ASCII in the middle of the street next to a screaming angry bike until the tip-over switch killed it.



Anyway! I don't want to be a total buzzkill so what kind of front master cylinder did you buy for your XJ? As Diver Ray mentioned, the XJ11 has a linked brake system.

From what you've written, the rear master cylinder needs to be cleaned. There's a small pressure relief hole that gets plugged up with old, gummy, brake fluid so it's fondly referred to as "the spooge hole" and the XJ's proportioning valve can get gummed up, rusted and blocked up too.

Trbig's adventures and a master cylinder picture for XJ11 brakes:-
XJ Rear "Spooge" holes???


The rear master cylinder acts through a proportioning valve on both the rear brake caliper and the front left brake caliper.

The front master cylinder only acts on the front right brake caliper so it uses a smaller 14mm (~9/16") bore. If you replaced it with a master cylinder that's designed for dual brake calipers it probably has a 17mm (~11/16) or larger bore that will be difficult to use.

You must be referring to the DIY tool, the O-rings that come with the YICS Eliminator will withstand any temp that the engine can handle.

Larry

Thank you, Larry! Dylano, listen to the Larry.

.

[Dylano*]

Great link I will definitely have to check out my rear MC ...I will also be doing the front and rear calipers.

I got one of these... but black:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FRONT-BR...1bb2a6&vxp=mtr

[Dylano*]

OH

And thanks to whomever told me to buy jets at buyatvpartsonline... I paid on the 7th, and they STILL HAVEN'T EVEN ****ING SHIPPED THEM! ): I've emailed them 3 times, I've messaged them 3 more times on the order sheet (where it says to message them for "FAST" response) and I've called over a dozen times, never any answer. I've also left messages, never a return call. This is BS. I should have had those jets this week sometime....