Rear Wheel Help

[rdmcguy]

clutch

Not to ask an obvious question but have you tried to pull in the clutch lever?

[TheRev]

I am not sure what the washer swap for the 2nd gear fix is. I ground down the dog ears like in the 2 gear fix thread. I have tried to pull the clutch lever which is not a dumb question. All questions when diagnosing a problem are helpful. Thanks

[BA80]

THIS is what the washer swap is. I was asking because when I did it on my SF the dogs had a little issue with dragging a bit when in neutral but wasn't an issue when I got the thing on the road.

Have you tried taking the bolts out of the u joint/middle drive union yet to see what happens?

[TheRev]

THIS is what the washer swap is. I was asking because when I did it on my SF the dogs had a little issue with dragging a bit when in neutral but wasn't an issue when I got the thing on the road.

Have you tried taking the bolts out of the u joint/middle drive union yet to see what happens?

Thanks for the input. I haven't tried taking the bolts out of the u joint yet. I will do that this week. I didn't do the washer swap. I will read about that. Perhaps I should have done that when I had it all apart. Thanks for the advice. I appreciate all the help.

[BA80]

I didn't do the washer swap. I will read about that. Perhaps I should have done that when I had it all apart. Thanks for the advice.

Yes, you absolutely should have.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Rev,

To do the 2nd/1st gear Dremel fix, you had to pull the clutch basket off/out. Did you take the clutch basket apart....pull the boss assembly, pull the frictions and steels out, inspect, clean/de-varnish/de-glaze the steels and reassemble? IF so...or at least pulled the plates out/apart, then they aren't STUCK.

As for the washer swap....many folks have done the Dremel fix and did not swap the washer, and have been running fine for years/10's k miles! Spilt milk now, don't worry about going back in to do it. Yes, it's recommended as part of the fix to help keep the 2nd gear better engaged with the 5th gear, but there's a decent amount of engagement of the dogs/slots with the OEM setup and a good undercutting....the undercutting helps to pull/keep the gears together under stress/load. On a relatively virgin(low miles) engine doing the washer swap alone "could" help prevent the skipping from occuring to begin with.

If you decide to remove the final drive....you should be able to turn/rotate the drive at the axle end by hand!

I'm curious to see how you mounted your Dig Gauge cluster, I just posted my amateur attempt in my "questions/gauges" thread.

T.C.

[rdmcguy]

While I am thinking about it

Another thought that comes to mind.
Perhaps it got nudged into gear by someone?
A Kid,you ,buddy playing a prank?

[trbig]

Another thought that comes to mind.
Perhaps it got nudged into gear by someone?
A Kid,you ,buddy playing a prank?

Or maybe pushing down the shifter, thinking you've got it into 1st because it didn't click any more gears, but without spinning the rear tire/transmission, it actually never got to first and therefore never got to neutral when you clicked it up?

[TheRev]

Or maybe pushing down the shifter, thinking you've got it into 1st because it didn't click any more gears, but without spinning the rear tire/transmission, it actually never got to first and therefore never got to neutral when you clicked it up?

That is very possible, although the neutral light is on.

[TheRev]

Hey Rev,

To do the 2nd/1st gear Dremel fix, you had to pull the clutch basket off/out. Did you take the clutch basket apart....pull the boss assembly, pull the frictions and steels out, inspect, clean/de-varnish/de-glaze the steels and reassemble? IF so...or at least pulled the plates out/apart, then they aren't STUCK.

As for the washer swap....many folks have done the Dremel fix and did not swap the washer, and have been running fine for years/10's k miles! Spilt milk now, don't worry about going back in to do it. Yes, it's recommended as part of the fix to help keep the 2nd gear better engaged with the 5th gear, but there's a decent amount of engagement of the dogs/slots with the OEM setup and a good undercutting....the undercutting helps to pull/keep the gears together under stress/load. On a relatively virgin(low miles) engine doing the washer swap alone "could" help prevent the skipping from occuring to begin with.

If you decide to remove the final drive....you should be able to turn/rotate the drive at the axle end by hand!

I'm curious to see how you mounted your Dig Gauge cluster, I just posted my amateur attempt in my "questions/gauges" thread.

T.C.

When I took the final drive apart I was able to rotate the drive by hand. In fact it was not difficult at all. I am wondering if I should start the bike, shift into first, and gently let out the clutch until i get the rear tire to spin slowly. Perhaps that will free up any binding. What do you think?

[XS11UFO]

Man, it's only 4 bolts to isolate the issue, either way could cause automatic disassembly. I wouldn't on my bike.

[TheRev]

Man, it's only 4 bolts to isolate the issue, either way could cause automatic disassembly. I wouldn't on my bike.

Great Point. I have been working on this bike for two years. I just need to be patient and sort out all the little problems. I will remove the four bolts and check the middle drive. I am almost positive that the problem is not the final drive or the shaft because I have had those apart and they rotate freely.

[TheRev]

Ok, I am almost certain that the final drive and the shaft are fine. When I remove the four bolts off the middle drive am I supposed to be able to rotate the middle gear somehow? If the middle gear doesn't rotate what does that mean? Would I need to remove the engine and rework the transmission? That would be awful since I thought I was so close to being done? I should probably add that I have never worked on the middle gear before, so nothing has changed with that. I have however had the transmission apart to do the second gear fix. I also had the clutch out of the bike while doing the second gear fix. The clutch however feels fine. I can shift into various gears by hand without a problem. I am beginning to think this is a full blown transmission problem which would mean I have to remove the engine and begin at square one. I am going to need this forum more than ever to figure this out?

[BA80]

Ok, I am almost certain that the final drive and the shaft are fine. When I remove the four bolts off the middle drive am I supposed to be able to rotate the middle gear somehow? If the middle gear doesn't rotate what does that mean? Would I need to remove the engine and rework the transmission? That would be awful since I thought I was so close to being done? I am going to need this forum more than ever to figure this out?

It means you have a problem at the middle drive or transmission. Most likely the transmission in this case I would guess.

It won't free up with the shifter in any position/gear?

You should be able to drop the oil pan and oil pump to see what the issue is.

[TheRev]

It means you have a problem at the middle drive or transmission. Most likely the transmission in this case I would guess.

It won't free up with the shifter in any position/gear?

You should be able to drop the oil pan and oil pump to see what the issue is.

I shifted into first and gently let out the clutch and it sounded awful.