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Ill give that a shot first. But after all the pick work last night the hole has enlarged a bit. If I can get the tip out after freezing I wonder if the hole size will be an issue.
Jb weld does get soft and falls apart in gasoline.
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
I know the JB Kwik does but from what Ive been reading the regular is impervious to it after it fully cures.
It still cant handle constantly being in contact with it.
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Ok the freezing didnt help so I started drilling. An 11/64s bit fit in the screw hole perfectly so I didnt mess up the threads and the hole was just snug enough to keep the bit dead center. I was able to drill out just enough to get the tip out but not so much that I made the hole into the throat any larger.
Ideas on how to close up the secondary hole that someone drilled in the past if JB wont work?
Get some of the gas resistant epoxy - it too will eventually break down in gasoline (my experience, YMMV) but takes a lot longer - for as little actual gas as that hole will get exposed to I think you will be fine.
Look for gas tank repair stuff. Its only meant as a temp repair for a holed tank while off roading say - which is where I have seen it used and it will certainly save you from being stranded in the desert.
Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready. '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine
Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready. '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine
Ok got them put back on and everything hooked up. Just waiting for tomorrow afternoon.
During another hour long session of putting it all back in a terrible thought occured to me. After the synch and idle tune, I take it out for a ride, bring it back and check the plugs. Lets say the mix is off. Do I need to pull these dang things off again, adjust, put back together and test ride again and again until its right? Or can the changes be made while theyre on the bike?
Also, I see people talk about changing the float for the mixture but in my Haynes manual is says change the needle.
Depends on what you need to adjust. If you need to change jets then yes you have to pull them out. If you just need to adjust the idle mix screws then you can leave them on the bike. Leave the needle clip in the center of the needle. Floats can be adjusted some for more or less fuel, just depends on when the engine is lacking fuel.
Floats effect all throttle ranges
Pilots and idle mix screws - mainly just low end but to a small degree all ranges.
Mains and needles - mid range
Mains - too end
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Got them synched very easily this time. After a visual bench synch with the first opening they were all withing half of a notch on my gauges.
I still cant get the idle as low as its supposed to be after warmup. It wont go lower than 1500. I sprayed around all the boots with carb cleaner with no effect.
Tuning really didnt happen. I tried the tune by ear but really never heard the slight pick up and settle down. That may be due to the higher idle. So I just have them at 1.5 turns out until I hear a better idea from you guys. I did try to turn them out a bit thinking a little richer would bring the idle down but it actually picked up a bit and stayed there. That was another full turn out so at 2.5 out total.
I took it out for a couple mile ride tonight and heres what the plugs look like. All the floats are at 25mm right now.
From the little I know, it looks like I'm running lean. Whats the next step I need to take?
jat,
are u using needle vac guages?
if so they need to be callibrated.
pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
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