begging new mod, need input

[xschop]

future reference

If anyone else is planning on a swap,The stock xs11 wheel centerline to swingarm (from left) is 5 5/8 inches for future references of other donor swingarms....chop

[xschop]

centerline

This will save someone some trouble later. Wish I had this info before . I used a carpenters square on a bare swingarm like the pic. Put the short end of the square on the mating surface of the swingarm/FD and marked the location between LEFT pivot point (3 5/8"), then added the distance between SA/FD mating surface and center wheel (factory casting marks) which is 2"

[Mathh]

Re: thanks math

Originally posted by xschop
What type welder did you use?

With the one on the left it was easier than with the one on the right:

[xschop]

gracias

I will be using flux stick and a wire feed. will have the monoshock mounted up this weekend....found a way to reinforce without moving stock battery location......the r1 shock is a go...chop

[xschop]

hey math

I was looking at your bike pics. Was wondering why you went with putting the shock on the outter leg? Does look good though. I will be welding the shock linkage attachment point to the lower frame brace and battery post.....

[Mathh]

Re: hey math

Originally posted by xschop
I was looking at your bike pics. Was wondering why you went with putting the shock on the outter leg?

The Fjr1300 swingarm and extra wide wheels were the latest mods. The one before this still had the steel modified swingarm and smaller wheels. I wanted a swept up exhaust tucked in on the right side of the bike but that didn't work well with the standard stereo shocks, so I got rid of them. With the short swingarm there was no room for a centrally mounted monoshock.
The present set up works exceptionally well because of the super stiffness of the FJR arm. The room within the new swingarm where the monoshock was, has already been reserved for a nitrous bottle.....

[xschop]

chain clearance solution

Just use a trapezoid shaped 1/4 inch plate....







This should do the trick....

[xschop]

nother 11 chop

This is my friend and his XS11 who helped me with the welding. That's a VW bug tail light! Fits perfect!!

[50gary]

You bud's bike is pretty cool. I like the aluminum/sliver frame and
the XS logo on the tank. VW light and mini signals are also a cool touch. Nice details. The piece you guys welded on appears more of a parallelogram than trapazoid me thinks?
Cheers, 50gary

[xschop]

geometry class lagging

well it started out as a trapezoid.

[pggg]

Hey, that rear end's coming along good Chop, the front drive setup should be a piece of cake to you guys too.

[xschop]

cake mmmmm

Hey pggg, how ya doin? glad you chimed in. Was wondering how close your chain comes to the lower post when you are on and off the bike? I also can cut away some of the lower support and weld a piece there for support if I have to. just would rather do it with the bare frame if you know what I mean. There are a couple ways to mount the monoshock support and not interfere with battery, will post pics in a few days. My machinist will have my Swingarm spacer done on Wednesday. I really appreciate all of your help (and future help as well) . Merry Christmas....

[pggg]

Chop, yeah, TC booted me and and others off this site for a few weeks as suspected spammers!! (just jokin' TC) - the chain on my setup just touches that lower rear frame without rider on board(I hose-clipped a sheet of plastic between) - but easily clears it when riding or sitting on the bike, and that's with a pretty large diameter 45T rear sprocket and a 14T front.

[xschop]

gettin the boot

yeah,thanks pggg. i more than likely will be closer (15mm more) towards the pivot than yours, but I will not grind anymore until all is set-up( better to take off than put on). How much did you have to grind from the crankcase for the 14T BTW?

[pggg]

Well to make room for a 14T, it doesn't take much at all, you're only looking at lightly skimming 2mm of the case in a small area, the stock case thickness is 5 - 6mm, I checked it all out beforehand on a spare split motor. With the drive unit off and using an angle grinder and smallish disc it's easy-peasy, slowly and gradually, with a short length of chain wrapped round the sprocket and sliding the drive unit on and off to check until the chain is clearing the case.