begging new mod, need input

[GNEPIG]

Swingarm length, that's one of the major hold backs of the XS11 design. It's way too short,

.. make the swing arm longer and the shaft action decreases.

.. i have been kickin around the idea for makin a paralever type of swing arm for our bikes, but just cant find the time. would anyone else like to try?

http://www.largiader.com/paralever/

..Mathh, super cool bike! you should post some more pics and some specs, we love that kind of stuff here.... welcome to the site.
did i say super cool bike yet?!

[Dennyz]

paralever, what a cool idea. To have a second pivot joint in the swing arm, a second ujoint would be required. If there were a second ujoint, the M/D would not need to be moved. Hmmmm!

like killing to stones with one bird!

[xschop]

good idea

I looked at bmw's swingarms. you would need a left side one and I only saw one on an '06 1200k model.would be awhile before someone decided to wreck one of those.... If anyone is interested. my machinist said he could turn/grind the output shaft to receive a bearing and cut splines to put a sprocket, even a belt drive sprocket, JAT.....chop

[Dennyz]

my machinist said he could turn/grind the output shaft to receive a bearing and cut splines to put a sprocket, even a belt drive sprocket, JAT.

Once we have the 35mm spacer and shaft working, I want to look into a chain drive conversion.

I am going to stick with the VMax rim and tire (170x80x15). I would like to run a 180, if I can find one. So far, 170 is the wides 15" I have found.

[pggg]

Hey guys, the only advantage I can see from spacing the middle drive out further for a chaindrive setup is that it MAY allow the use of a commonly available 16 tooth front XS650 sprocket, that means you won't need a custom cut front sprocket, but if a machinist re-cuts a whole new spline pattern on the shaft, you'll need to pick a particular make/model sprocket to match, BUT the downside to that is the chosen rear rim, chaindrive or shaftdrive(such as the Vmax rim) - is gonna need extra work and modifications to allow fitting of the rear sprocket, and also the right outwards measurement to align with the front sprocket. You can fit a 14 tooth front sprocket on the stock unspaced middle drive anyway, and a stock rear rim, be it R1 or ZX or whatever, should align without major modifications and dramas. Rigging yourself a swingarm is probably the trickiest part, I modded the stock XS swingarm on my chain setup to avoid major frame mods, and it wasn't too difficult really, it's mainly a case of getting all the right measurements worked out. Good luck guys anyway.

[Mathh]

Originally posted by JWSanders
Hey Mathh. Welcome to the site!
If so, I would be REALLY interested in seeing how you did it. Would be better in another thread, though. Wouldn't want to hijack this one.

Done! http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...threadid=11686

[xschop]

sprocket and spacer

hey pggg, I have been studying your chain setup very thoroughly. Good work by the way. I believe that I have come up with a way to grind/turn down the stock shaft, put an outter support bearing and sprocket. I have one question, In your chaindrive pics, you have an extra 25mm distance left before the chain hits the pivot point/braces from up top. How about below?....chop

[Dennyz]

Chop, is that you bidding on the FJR wheel? Would be nice if it had the cush drive and F/D cog.

The FJR is just about the perfect wheel for my upgrade, but they are very hard (and expensive) to come by.

I am bidding on a trashed R1 rim, to do some experimenting on. I want to see if I can mod an R1 rim to take a F/D.

[xschop]

HEYYYYY,

I was wondering the same thing!!! Go ahead and try to win it. The backspacing is on the money. Also I am doing some last miute research on the vfr swingarm. I have a 96 vfr wheel that will take a 180 tire nicely. Just not positive it will set on a 98 swingarm.I want the '98 S/A because it is stiffer. I still will send the extended shaft to you when it is finished. Just don't start on my spacer just yet. I need to know if it is possible to get up to a 50mm thick spacer? And can you cut a concentric hole opposite the locating boss, to hold an outter shaft bearing?This Is The ticket!!!the sprocket could be spaced along the length of the splines for many possibilities..Then would just need a 'pggg' sprocket...

[pggg]

Re: sprocket and spacer

Originally posted by xschop
hey pggg, I have been studying your chain setup very thoroughly. Good work by the way. I believe that I have come up with a way to grind/turn down the stock shaft, put an outter support bearing and sprocket. I have one question, In your chaindrive pics, you have an extra 25mm distance left before the chain hits the pivot point/braces from up top. How about below?....chop

The wide 530 O-ring chain lightly touches a lower frame tube if you don't grind off a couple of mm's of metal at that point, but that's only when the bike's parked, when a rider sits on the bike the chain rises up an inch or two, and the chain runs clear from front sprocket to back sprocket.

[xschop]

thanks again

I was betting I had to reroute that tube. No problem though....will look something like this....and give another 20-25mm

[yadada]

chop, my bro-in-law has a 96 vfr that he was going to put a 98-01 wheel on (his was bent). He investigated a bit and found you could do it, but it required some spacers or something...FYI

Keep goin on this guys...I'm reading with interest as I have plans to do a little converting someday too.

[xschop]

Denny

I don' have an extra shaft right now to measure this (blue) distance. This would be the thickness of spacer I would need to make this a one piece bolt on setup. would just need to figure out the outter bearing size to cut. My machinist said he can modify the shaft to recieve a bolt on the end or a permanent circlip indention. As a bonus, this will allow the sprocket to be moved back and forth for different swing-arm/tire applications. P.S you won that fjr wheel?

[Dennyz]

chop,

No, I did not bid on the FJR wheel. Out of my budget.

Denny

[pggg]

Chop that small mod to the lower rear frame would give more choice on back wheels too. That distance in blue, from outer bearing to edge of spline teeth is 75.5mm My front sprocket is at the 72.5mm position, as I had 3mm ground back off the spline teeth, that moved the sprocket inwards and perfectly in line with the rear sprocket.