Oil threads always seem to evolve like this.
Just another search on this and I only post this for those reading this thread not to prove I am right or wrong.
Motorcycle-specific oils utilize ashless polymeric dispersants, primarily polyisobutylene succinimide (PIBSI) and its derivatives, to achieve clutch debris management.
How They Work
Unlike standard automotive oils, which focus dispersant chemistry heavily on managing combustion carbon (soot), motorcycle-specific 4T formulations require high-molecular-weight organic polymers. These molecules feature a dual-structure:
Why Car Oils Differ
Passenger car motor oils (PCMO) lack this specific operational balance. Because cars utilize separate dry clutches, automotive oil chemistry is optimized purely for fuel efficiency and emissions. They rely on friction modifiers (like molybdenum compounds) to make the oil as slippery as possible. In a motorcycle's shared-sump system, automotive friction modifiers will glaze wet clutch plates and cause severe slipping. Motorcycle oils certified under the JASO MA or MA2 standards deliver the necessary high-shear stability and debris dispersion without containing these problematic friction-reducing additives.
By the way Pete your selection of Yamalube was a good one. I also have to confess I have used Supertech 20w50 in the past. I don't really ride as much these days as I used to so my oil changes intervals are a lot less now so my choice in oil is not that big a deal for me. Of course I can afford whatever oil I want these days. Whether I pay too much or not is also a personal choice.
Just another search on this and I only post this for those reading this thread not to prove I am right or wrong.
Motorcycle-specific oils utilize ashless polymeric dispersants, primarily polyisobutylene succinimide (PIBSI) and its derivatives, to achieve clutch debris management.
How They Work
Unlike standard automotive oils, which focus dispersant chemistry heavily on managing combustion carbon (soot), motorcycle-specific 4T formulations require high-molecular-weight organic polymers. These molecules feature a dual-structure:
- Polar "Soot-Loving" Head: Bonds physically with the microscopic wet clutch friction dust (fibers and metallic particulates) as it sheds from the plates.
- Oleophilic "Oil-Loving" Tail: Solubilizes perfectly in the base fluid.
Why Car Oils Differ
Passenger car motor oils (PCMO) lack this specific operational balance. Because cars utilize separate dry clutches, automotive oil chemistry is optimized purely for fuel efficiency and emissions. They rely on friction modifiers (like molybdenum compounds) to make the oil as slippery as possible. In a motorcycle's shared-sump system, automotive friction modifiers will glaze wet clutch plates and cause severe slipping. Motorcycle oils certified under the JASO MA or MA2 standards deliver the necessary high-shear stability and debris dispersion without containing these problematic friction-reducing additives.
By the way Pete your selection of Yamalube was a good one. I also have to confess I have used Supertech 20w50 in the past. I don't really ride as much these days as I used to so my oil changes intervals are a lot less now so my choice in oil is not that big a deal for me. Of course I can afford whatever oil I want these days. Whether I pay too much or not is also a personal choice.
Good info,,,,agree with all the above,,,these old bikes just keep going with 10/40 or 20l50 or similar oil with no issues, I also have used Walmart cheap blue bottle Super tech in my cars and bikes,,,,plenty high mileage in all, the other parts wore out before any of the engines, with regular oil and filter changes all will last. Ride on XS Riders,,,,,Mike in S.Diego and Pa.
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