oil use

[oldyam80sg]

What is everyone using for oil? I see lots of synthetic oil in Wal-Mart but I dont use synthetic except in my Jeep. I see Rotella and Castrol. Should I order online instead? What is everyone using that is not synthetic?

[cajun31]

Walmart generally has a dino based 20w50 motorcycle oil available. At least they do here in Mississippi. I have been using this: RAVENOL 20W40 Motorcycle Oil - 4 Stroke JASO MA MA2 Oil - 4L.

[bikerphil]

Wal-Mart Conventional 20W50




Nothing written in bottom half of circle which means no friction modifiers added that may cause clutch slip.

[LAB3]

Valvoline 15-40 semi synthetic has been about $15 a gallon all summer at Wally world

[cajun31]

Wal-Mart Conventional 20W50




Nothing written in bottom half of circle which means no friction modifiers added that may cause clutch slip.

I don't want to start an oil debate but this is car oil not motorcycle oil. Even without the friction modifiers it is formulated for use in automobiles not motorcycles. Do you own research on the debate concerning use of oils engineered for automobiles and it's use in motorcycles.

[oldyam80sg]

Wal-Mart Conventional 20W50




Nothing written in bottom half of circle which means no friction modifiers added that may cause clutch slip.

I saw that there today- I will shop around. I changed the filter today also, I had one in my Mothers garage.

[oldyam80sg]

I found Yamaha LUB 20W 50 oil online and will buy that.

[Ccitis]

Lucas 20 50... Had hpped it would slow down consumption... it has not. Does make the bike a little harder to get going on colder starts

[bikerphil]

I don't want to start an oil debate but this is car oil not motorcycle oil. Even without the friction modifiers it is formulated for use in automobiles not motorcycles. Do you own research on the debate concerning use of oils engineered for automobiles and it's use in motorcycles.

Yep, just make sure to change it at no more than 3K miles, your motor will not notice the difference.

[Bonz]

Guys have used Rotella 15W40 and Supertech 20w50 for decades. Unless you have an issue with your clutch, neither one will cause an issue with the clutch. Slippage is purely a function of almost 50 year old clutch plates and springs in most cases. Even that is rare.

Many of the folks here were not around on the original XS11.com forum. Guys never had issues with super tech 20w50 or Castrol 20w50, etc. I run Castrol 20w50 in my 750 Seca from 1982, and the same in my 1983 Nighthawk 550.

Oils overall are SO much better than they were when this bike was made, and there are no friction modifiers in any 15W40 or 20w50 that is made today.

With that said, can someone name the magic pixie dust that is a friction modifier? No one has ever been able to.

[cajun31]

I asked the following question of google. I have a 1980 Yamaha xs1100 and want to use a dino based 20w50 automotive oil with no friction modifiers in it. Will it cause any problems?

The response:
Using a conventional (dino-based) 20W-50 automotive oil without friction modifiers in your 1980 Yamaha XS1100 will generally not cause immediate wet clutch slippage, but it poses long-term risks to your engine and transmission. Because heavy-weight 20W-50 automotive oils are exempt from the "Resource Conserving" API designations, they omit the fuel-economy friction modifiers that glaze clutch plates. However, modern passenger car motor oils are not formulated to withstand the unique mechanical environment of a vintage motorcycle.

The Hidden Risks of Car Oil in an XS1100

• Rapid Viscosity Breakdown (Gear Shearing): Unlike a car, your XS1100 shares its engine oil with the transmission. The physical meshing of gear teeth acts like a pair of scissors, slicing through the polymer chains (viscosity index improvers) in automotive oil. Car oil will thin out rapidly under these forces, leaving your engine under-protected.

• Inadequate Camshaft Protection (Low ZDDP): Your 1980 inline-four features a flat-tappet valvetrain that requires high levels of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) to prevent wear on the cam lobes. Modern automotive oils have systematically reduced ZDDP levels to protect automotive catalytic converters, which can accelerate wear on older motorcycle cams.

• Clutch Debris Management: Motorcycle-specific oils include specialized dispersants designed to keep microscopic wet clutch friction dust suspended in the oil until it reaches the filter. Car oils lack these specific additives.

Safer, Time-Tested Alternatives

If you prefer conventional ("dino") oil and want to protect your bike without breaking the bank, consider these options instead:

• Dedicated 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil: If you want a true 20W-50 mineral oil, use a product specifically rated for motorcycles, such as Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Conventional Oil at Walmart or Yamaha's factory-blended Yamalube 20W-50 Motorsports All Purpose Engine Oil. These are explicitly JASO MA/MA2 certified to ensure gear durability and wet clutch grip.

• Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil (HDDO): Many vintage metric bike owners run a conventional 15W-40 heavy-duty diesel oil (like Shell Rotella T4). It is highly shear-stable, packed with zinc anti-wear additives, wet-clutch safe, and very affordable.

If you are currently running automotive 20W-50, it won't instantly destroy the bike, but you should shorten your oil change interval significantly (to around 1,500–2,000 miles) to combat gear shearing.

[Bonz]

Conventional 20w50 motorcycle oil or conventional 20w50 car oil use the SAME viscosity index improvers to cover the multi-weight oil range. You could pick10w40, you could pick 15w40, it matters not the same relationship would hold true.

Higher quality base oils need lees viscosity index improvers to achieve the weight range, which results in an oil that will not shear as much. That is when semi-synthetic and full synthetic oils show better shear resistance because they need less viscosity index improvers to cover the weight range.

However typically within conventional oils and within the same weight ranges, one will not sheer less or more than another.

With respect to zinc content, I do agree zinc is very good at what it does and I want a good dose of it in my oil. Oils are much better than back in the day to begin with, and boron has become an additive that performs the same function as zinc. Boron is active right away when the engine starts, it doesn't need to be to the point of extreme heat and pressure to protect like zinc does.

To say a motorcycle oil versus a car oil will improve gear durability and/or that motorcycle oils have special dispersants that remove clutch dust that car oils can't, they have no specific additives that do either. Those two statements are patently wrong

[LAB3]

It never fails to amaze me how many people become experts on petro chemicals based solely on their ability to repeat what that pretty girl on the Sunday morning informercial disguised as a motorhead show have to say! How DO you sell oil at $10 per quart unless you can convince someone that it's somehow superior to the stuff that sells for $5! BS, that's how!

Some may ask "Well then Mr Know it all, what's YOUR experience?" It's pictured below. You know, living in the REAL world. So few people do it these days ...

[oldyam80sg]

LAB3 -is that the same bike or did you change bikes?

[Bonz]

30 years of oil in motorcycles with over a dozen used oil analysis using different oils. Motorcycle, "car" and HDEO for 5,000 Mi oil change intervals in one of my motorcycles versus internet searching is my stance on this. Petrochemical experts lol, gave me a good laugh when I got back from my ride.