oil use

[cajun31]

Oil threads always seem to evolve like this.

Just another search on this and I only post this for those reading this thread not to prove I am right or wrong.

Motorcycle-specific oils utilize ashless polymeric dispersants, primarily polyisobutylene succinimide (PIBSI) and its derivatives, to achieve clutch debris management.

How They Work
Unlike standard automotive oils, which focus dispersant chemistry heavily on managing combustion carbon (soot), motorcycle-specific 4T formulations require high-molecular-weight organic polymers. These molecules feature a dual-structure:

• Polar "Soot-Loving" Head: Bonds physically with the microscopic wet clutch friction dust (fibers and metallic particulates) as it sheds from the plates.

• Oleophilic "Oil-Loving" Tail: Solubilizes perfectly in the base fluid.

The dispersants encapsulate the fine clutch debris into microscopic structures called micelles. This prevents the friction dust from agglomerating into heavy sludge or binding to crucial components like clutch spring stacks, holding the debris safely in suspension until it passes through the oil filter.


Why Car Oils Differ

Passenger car motor oils (PCMO) lack this specific operational balance. Because cars utilize separate dry clutches, automotive oil chemistry is optimized purely for fuel efficiency and emissions. They rely on friction modifiers (like molybdenum compounds) to make the oil as slippery as possible. In a motorcycle's shared-sump system, automotive friction modifiers will glaze wet clutch plates and cause severe slipping. Motorcycle oils certified under the JASO MA or MA2 standards deliver the necessary high-shear stability and debris dispersion without containing these problematic friction-reducing additives.

By the way Pete your selection of Yamalube was a good one. I also have to confess I have used Supertech 20w50 in the past. I don't really ride as much these days as I used to so my oil changes intervals are a lot less now so my choice in oil is not that big a deal for me. Of course I can afford whatever oil I want these days. Whether I pay too much or not is also a personal choice.

[DEEBS11]

Ha ha. The old oil thread trick. Never talk about politics, religion or oil in polite company.


Friction modifiers? Malarkey. Would only be a factor if you are drag racing. You (we?) are not drag racing. However, if you are driving your bike like that on the street you are an idiot but that is not important right now. I have used car oil for over 40 years in over 60 bikes and I ride to Alaska, Canada and Mexico. I have ridden in every state (except Missouri for some reason). Never had an issue. One of my bikes has 240,000 miles and does not burn a drop of oil. I am a down_to _the_crankshaft mechanic and an intercontinental motorcycle traveler. The industry promotes this crap and the (perhaps some) people who fall for it ride under 10,000 miles a year and consider an oil change "wrenching". They possibly also believe that America is now "great" somehow and will receive a 5 thousand dollar check in the mail real soon.😁

For what it's worth, I am currently using Shell Rotella in my XS11 sidecar rig. However, that Walmart Supertech oil is fine and I use it in many applications and never had one come back. I love you guys and enjoy our chats together.

[DEEBS11]

It never fails to amaze me how many people become experts on petro chemicals based solely on their ability to repeat what that pretty girl on the Sunday morning informercial disguised as a motorhead show have to say! How DO you sell oil at $10 per quart unless you can convince someone that it's somehow superior to the stuff that sells for $5! BS, that's how!

Some may ask "Well then Mr Know it all, what's YOUR experience?" It's pictured below. You know, living in the REAL world. So few people do it these days ...

LAB3, you live the life. You ride. A lot. You know the truth. It's transportation. It's a motorcycle, not the Space Shuttle.