Clutch replacement

[jetmechmarty]

That doesn't seem right, they need to slide freely. Here's the measurements from a new PartsNmore friction...

IAW the FSM, the 2.6 mm thickness is out of spec. 2.8 mm is minimum.

I had a small weather break. I couldn't wring it out as it's too wet and I want to stay near the barn. I hope I can adjust my way out of this. It should work fine.

[jetmechmarty]

I have both of these conditions going on at the same time.

I adjusted most of the creep out of it, but it's not releasing enough for easy shifting. Moving relatively slowly in 5th gear, it slips when I twist the throttle. It's a head scratcher.

[bikerphil]

Probably trying to adjust it so it fully disengages is causing the slip. Looks like the next step is to tear it apart and try to find the problem.

[Larrym]

Food fOaR thought.... (O_o)

IF either one or MoAr of the steels or the frictions were warped or bent? ( •_•)

The "stack" would be thicker than designed specs, NOT release fully, and when engaged they would only have spotty contact/friction instead of the uniform "friction-face-steel-face-friction-face-steel-face" we'd all like to see. (╯•﹏•)

OR... if somehow there were one or more HIGH/THICK spots on the frictions themselves the same sorta problems would present themselves... ( Θ︹Θ)

I've said before that I've NEVER been able to see warped/BENT frictions and used a feeler gauge instead. (๑´• .̫ •ू`๑)

BUT.. I have stacked all the steels on top of each other on a plate glass surface then put a light source in the center of'em to look for any "daylight" between any of them. (^_^)

As far as the frictions? (O_o)

Put'em on that plate glass. Go round the clock positions while tapping them with a standard #2 pencil eraser. (*′☉.̫☉)

Then should'nt rattle or make any noise if they're "TRUE". Noise/rattling is a FALSE. (✖╭╮✖)

FLIP the friction over and test AGAIN. Same true/false test with a #2 pencil eraser. (^_^)

These "high" spots (if any...) on frictions will both make the stack "taller" than it should be AND ruin that perfect "friction-face-steel-face-friction-face-steel-face". (ಥ‿ಥ)

IFF you find high spots on the frictions? (O_o)

WET (oil...) Carbide 600 grit sandpaper on the plate glass while moving the friction plate in the same sorta random circles you see in your orbital sander used for sanding painted surfaces. (^_^)

I've used Brake cleaner on the frictions afterwards to clean them off cuz I'm like OCD at times like this and even soak them again in clean oil. (´～｀ヾ)


But then all this is MOOT cuz I'm 100% certain that there's absolutely NO WAY that the "new" parts you bought could be anything other than PERFECT. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

PS- You DID swap out the less than spec springs, right? (O_o)

[jetmechmarty]

Larrym, I installed new Vesrah springs.

OK. Three times apart and back together. I had a step way back for reevaluation. I can adjust all of the slipping out of it. I cannot get it to fully release. It's all buttoned up. I'm going to order a new clutch cable. I think mine is old and stretched. Secondly, the pivot hole in the lever is oval. I need to address that as well. I'm not sure when I can next get on this, but I'll let y'all know when I do.

I appreciate all of the input gentlemen.

[jetmechmarty]

I got it all back together. It has new springs, new Vesrah friction plates, a new Motion Pro cable, a new OEM clutch lever, and a new bolt for the lever. 😁

Up and down the street a couple times in front of my house tells me it’s going to be good. HOWEVER, the Motion Pro cable is too short. I cannot adjust any slack at the lever. None. The lever is tight against the stop. The clutch is engaged. I have to replace the cable again.

[DEEBS11]

Marty, can you get any slack by the lower adjustment under the right side cover?

[DiverRay]

Marty, what DEEBS11 posted, but turn COUNTER clockwise until loose, then clockwise until it touches, and back off 1/4 turn. Quick easy try before replacing the cable again.

[jetmechmarty]

Yes. I’ve done that exactly as described.

I am currently covered up by distractions. I owe it to you helpful friends to post an update. The hole in my lever was oval and so bad that a 25/64” drill would not make it round again. I suspect a stretched OE cable, but with it out, it doesn’t operate smoothly. The OE springs failed the measurement check. It feels great now except I can’t get any slack. I think the lever was a bigger contributor than I could have realized.

My new cable is leaking oil onto the floor! It’s 90W140 synthetic. It’s going to be at least a week before I can futz with it again. In the meantime, I’ll reach out to Motion Pro. I had to remove the lever on the bottom in order to install that cable. I have Motion Pro cables on my XS650s and had believed they were as good as or superior to OEM.

One more thing. I installed the o’ring on the bottom of the clutch lever. I applied grease to a new shoulder bolt. No more floppy lever.

[bikerphil]

You could try 1/2 turn out on the adjustment screw under the clutch cover, it may create a little more slack in the cable. This is the way Bob Jones described the adjustment in his XS Eleven Heaven book. May be worth a try.

Maybe tie the lever down overnight to stretch the new cable some. Also, maybe remove the lockdown nut at the lever end to give a little more space for adjustment.

[jetmechmarty]

You could try 1/2 turn out on the adjustment screw under the clutch cover, it may create a little more slack in the cable. This is the way Bob Jones described the adjustment in his XS Eleven Heaven book. May be worth a try.

Maybe tie the lever down overnight to stretch the new cable some. Also, maybe remove the lockdown nut at the lever end to give a little more space for adjustment.

I’ll do both, thanks.

[jetmechmarty]

I can get slack with that screw, but I get creep with the lever against the grip.

There’s no slack with a proper adjustment. I’ll putz with it more but it has to be in a few days.