Idle mixture/etc one rich plug

[DiverRay]

You NEED to rinse after the simple green. It WILL destroy aluminum, just ask an aircraft mechanic. Hot water rinse after the clean is all I do. I DO use ultrasonic cleaner for most of the bigger parts, though.

[DEEBS11]

You NEED to rinse after the simple green. It WILL destroy aluminum, just ask an aircraft mechanic. Hot water rinse after the clean is all I do. I DO use ultrasonic cleaner for most of the bigger parts, though.

Always do with hot water. I piped my hot water system into a second tap in front of the shop. All parts rinsed with hot water. Never lost a patient yet.

[Larrym]

Where do you fellas get your carb rebuild kits from ?
Dont trust the ebay stuff

I bought 4 (four) of these kits from Jets-R-Us after determining my own Ebay kit purchases no wurky. (_Oo)

DISCLAIMER- These kits were fOaR my 1979 SPECIAL with the OEM exhaust and NO modifications to the airbox etc.

https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_p...L_18-2581.html

All I really wanted was the float needles, seats, gasket, and Idle air jet. (Genuine Meekuni Idle air jet was/is NLA...)

I ordered the main fuel jets and the idle FUEL jets seperately from this same site.

H O W E V E R- Setting these K&L needles/seats at the recommended distance/height per the repair manual did NOT result in the fuel level in the bowl being where it should be. I had to use the methods previously described to get the fuel level correct.

Do NOT order this same kit(s) if your bike doesn't have the same carbs as mine.

PLEASE refer to this handy link when ordering for your own bike-

https://xs11.club/forum/maintenance/...ls-and-jetting

Note to self- Prob'ly could'a saved a bit of money iffin' I would'a just found/ordered all the parts individually but Jets-R-Us ain't got the most user friendly system. Y'know? (_Oo)

[Larrym]

BTW- I totally agree wit DiveRay and DEEBS11 about getting rid of any/all Simple Green residue. Even the "Aluminum Safe" version will have adverse effects if it isn't removed. (O_o)

And to ensure the SG is stripped off and no longer presents a threat? (゜Д゜*)

I use the same dangerous stuff-

Dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO) is a chemical compound that is also known as water (H2O), hydric acid, hydrogen hydroxide, dihydrogen oxide, or hydronium hydroxide. It is colorless, odorless, and tasteless, and can be found in liquid, solid, and gaseous forms. DHMO is a component of many environmental hazards, toxic substances, diseases, and disease-causing agents. It is also a key element of acid rain, and its atomic components are found in other poisonous, caustic, and explosive compounds, such as nitroglycerin, sulfuric acid, and ethyl alcohol.


Be careful! ~(‘.’~)

[Larrym]

Oopsey! (O_o)

On the Jets-R-Us site when yur DEEP in yur search fOaR the right part? (´_ゝ`)

EG- Genuine Mikuni needles/seats instead'a the K&L kit versions I bought.... ( º﹃º )

You'll need to have the OEM part number(s) fOaR wut you want. (⊙_☉)

Go here and get the right parts fiche FoAr yur model/year. (Provided the carbs ain't been swapped wit another year, right?)

https://xs11.club/forum/maintenance/...ch-in-jpg-form

NOW you'll see and understand why ordering those Ebay kits with the one-click-add-to-cart is so darn popular. (゜-゜)

[Mjpcarbon]

These bike is kickin my butt. Carb 2,3,4 are light tan borderline lean. Im only about 1.5 turns out so I think another 1/2 turn will help those 3 carbs
However even if I screw the pilot on #1 all the way in the plug is still very black sooty.

Syncing the carbs was fun but idle is still unpredictable, sometimes when you let off it is high then slowly drops and stalls. Other times its a steady 1100

As for number one carb, I wonder if the pilot jet has been messed with unbeknownst to me and is just too large

[Larrym]

However even if I screw the pilot on #1 all the way in the plug is still very black sooty.

Time to build the "Carb Pagoda" and really see wut's goin' on as far as the fuel levels in each carb bowl. (ﾟ ヘﾟ)





Yur gonna need these to screw into the bottom of the bowls- (¯―¯ ٥)



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07468TJVH...roduct_details

Simple to twist up the bailing wire to hold the see thru/clear fuel line. d(>_< )


Note- Obviously the Zirk/Grease fittings aren't flow thru when you get'em. (O_o)

Use a jeweler's screwdriver and/or pointy tweezers to pry the spring out from the threaded side. Then the check ball just falls out. (゜-゜)

Bonus? The springs and the check balls are the right size fOaR the detent balls/springs in the choke rod one has to remove iffin' yur ever gonna break the carb bank apart. (^_^)

[Radioguylogs]

As for number one carb, I wonder if the pilot jet has been messed with unbeknownst to me and is just too large

That's where my mind went.

[DEEBS11]

I love that fitting Larry. Cool tool!

Check also that needle seat in the slide on carb#1 please just to make sure it is seated. Could also be an incorrect needle with a sharper taper. This would cause a very rich condition.

[DEEBS11]

BTW- I totally agree wit DiveRay and DEEBS11 about getting rid of any/all Simple Green residue. Even the "Aluminum Safe" version will have adverse effects if it isn't removed. (O_o)

And to ensure the SG is stripped off and no longer presents a threat? (゜Д゜*)

I use the same dangerous stuff-

Dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO) is a chemical compound that is also known as water (H2O), hydric acid, hydrogen hydroxide, dihydrogen oxide, or hydronium hydroxide. It is colorless, odorless, and tasteless, and can be found in liquid, solid, and gaseous forms. DHMO is a component of many environmental hazards, toxic substances, diseases, and disease-causing agents. It is also a key element of acid rain, and its atomic components are found in other poisonous, caustic, and explosive compounds, such as nitroglycerin, sulfuric acid, and ethyl alcohol.


Be careful! ~(‘.’~)

Larry, I had a feeling that you would be into chemicals.

[Mjpcarbon]

Will do, lots of work ahead. some of which is above my pay grade

[Larrym]

Larry, I had a feeling that you would be into chemicals.

Here In Az during triple digit heat? (o_O)

I drink at least 3/4 gallon of DHMO every day even if I don't go outside. (º～º)

NOT from the Tap tho..... (゜Д゜*)

H2O is no longer the formula fOaR what comes outta the faucets where I live. (_Oo)

[DEEBS11]

Larry, isn't that the stuff Prince said we were being sprayed with?

[Larrym]

Larry, isn't that the stuff Prince said we were being sprayed with?

Dunno....Not much of a Prince fan so imma unfamiliar wit his whole dealio. (´c_`)

Still.... a lotta the tinfoil hat folks from years ago ended up being mostily right. Mostily.... (´･_･`)

EG- Hughes Aircraft Co. wuz alleged to have been dumping PCBs into the groundwater here in Tucson. W/O admitting to any guilt or liability, they ended up building a multi-million dollar treatment plant that has one-and-only-one porpose- pulling groundwater out and removing contaminants. (´-＿-｀●)

THat's why I refused to work for'em. I chose IBM instead. Waaaay better peoples to wurky with too. (b^_^)b

[Bonz]

First thing to do after the bike will run is sync the carbs. You will chase stuff around to no end if that is not the first thing.

Sounds like you are past that, something is up with either a wrong size pilot jet on that cylinder even though it may be labeled correctly, the tip is buggered on a pilot screw or the o-ring on the pilot screw assembly is not sealing.

In general and to echo others, idle mixture isn't vacuum, butterfly position controls vacuum. Set pilot screws to same on each carb. A bit rich or lean isn't critical right now. Adjust vacuum via sync screws with idle around 1100 rpm +/-. If idle drops or rises during sync, adjust idle, make sync adjustment, adjust idle, etc. until they are sync'd.

Ideally, after the initial sync the order of operations is make sure main jet is good at wide open throttle, then set the needle for the mid range and finally set the pilot screw for idle mixture. Granted those other things aren't at play here but point being the sync is first regardless.