78XS rehab

[ronniy]

where do you get the 4 into 1 exhaust for 1981 xs1100 cant find anythin on internet

[jetmechmarty]

where do you get the 4 into 1 exhaust for 1981 xs1100 cant find anythin on internet

Mac was the last. They're showing NLA now.

[ronniy]

Does anyone know where to get a 4 into one exhaust system I’ve seen picture but can find where to buy thanks

[FJ111200]

There are two types available here > https://predatormotorsport.co.uk/YAM...HED-STAINLESS/ or at least there was when i last looked.
I 'm after one fpr mine when the time comes.

[Eab]

Got plates! It's raining the last few days, but itching to get this on the road. I haven't rebuilt the carbs, I'm planning on doing some plug reading to see where I stand. I realize it's likely it needs SOME carb work, but if it's running rich or lean, does that risk damage to the engine? I know there are downsides in economy and performance depending, but I want to get in some miles before it's too cold. My two-stroke experience suggests its not a risk, but I'd like to be sure. As it stands now, it goes from cold to idle on half-choke pretty easily, with RPMs hovering around 1K (immediately after a cold start). I believe I read that specs call for an 1100rpm idle so I'm pretty comfortable with where I am.

[bikerphil]

Engine damage could occur if running extremely lean, rich won't hurt anything unless raw fuel is actually dumping into the crankcase. Does the bike idle at all with the enricher (choke) off?

[Eab]

Engine damage could occur if running extremely lean, rich won't hurt anything unless raw fuel is actually dumping into the crankcase. Does the bike idle at all with the enricher (choke) off?

Not cold it doesn't, at least. I've only ever taken it around the block (4 minutes) and/or idled it for maybe 2 minutes in the driveway. I assume it'd take a bit more running than that to run with zero enrichment?

[bikerphil]

Yeah, probably need to warm it up more before no enricher is needed. Ride it some and let us know how it goes.

[Bax]

Hi Eab, I wouldn't be too concerned with the bike needing richining to idle while cold. The idle didn't sound too bad in the video. ---Bax

[Eab]

Got the new turn signals in today! Something's up though: the left signal is on (no blinking) when the key is turned to on and the turn switch is disabled. Right blinker engages and flashes as it should, but when I hit the left signal it just becomes slightly brighter with no flash. I'm thinking its possible I swapped some wires in the tail light, any theories? I've got my wiring diagram ready to roll but I figure its likely someone else has had this same issue in the past. Hoping anyway!

Sidenote: neither turn signal is LED

Update: I switched the ground in the tail light housing around and it's not always on anymore, still won't blink though. Closer!

Another update: fixed it!

[2WheelFun]

Was it just cleaning up the grounds that fixed it?

[Eab]

Was it just cleaning up the grounds that fixed it?

Reversed the wires going into the turn signal, turns out the light goes on either way but only blinks going a certain way, who knew!

Just took the first (legal) ride, local side roads topping out at 40 (not due to malfunction mind you). Changes gears no trouble, got smoke off the engine a bit but I think thats just misc cleaning chemicals, spilled oil residue etc burning off. Tested the idle when I got back home to see what it'd do with zero enrichment, it idles at what looks like around 850 when it's relatively warmed up, which seems suboptimal. I believe the spec is around 1100... the revs go up very slightly (when its hot) when I hit one of the carb mounts with WD40 so it looks like there's a leak there, but its not dramatic so I'm thinking it's not a huge problem. Figure I'll rub in some hylomar blue into the cracks and see if that changes the game any. Might be that the vacuum leak is whats hurting my idle.

[nezzer]

Congrats on getting it out on the road! I always wished my bike had a fuel gauge like yours. Oh well, at least my XS1100 has a low fuel light, which is more than I can say for my XS650 or my Suzuki TS250.

I watch a lot of automotive TV shows. Roadkill host David Freiburger has a mantra, Don't get it perfect, get it running. I love that quote. I have a bunch of old vehicles that all need something. And yet, the only one I work on at night is the one I drove that day. I am terrible about working on winter bike projects because I am too distracted working on my car getting it ready for my commute the next day.

Now that your 1100 is on the road, I am sure you will be busy improving it, but at least you get to enjoy while you do so.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Eab,
Okay, spritzed carb mounts, got increased RPM's. Likely leak spots, the boots to engine head mating surface, the boots are covered in rubber, gets baked hard, and can crack, etc., they normally don't get mounted with gaskets, can remove, clean, remount using 3-Bond and gaskets to better seal. 2nd leak point are the vacuum ports- the caps also get hardened and even though they may be ON the metal nipple, can be LOOSE and leak around their mounting. The boots themselves rarely leak because they are DUAL LAYERED/Walled, so outside can be cracked, but inner layer is usually still fine/intact/sealed, they just don't look a nice as new smooth boots. Finally, carb butterfly shaft seals, so may want to retest spritzing being more precise on where, ie. the boots vs. the butterfly shafts, and proceed from there depending on results.

[Eab]

Hey Eab,
Okay, spritzed carb mounts, got increased RPM's. Likely leak spots, the boots to engine head mating surface, the boots are covered in rubber, gets baked hard, and can crack, etc., they normally don't get mounted with gaskets, can remove, clean, remount using 3-Bond and gaskets to better seal. 2nd leak point are the vacuum ports- the caps also get hardened and even though they may be ON the metal nipple, can be LOOSE and leak around their mounting. The boots themselves rarely leak because they are DUAL LAYERED/Walled, so outside can be cracked, but inner layer is usually still fine/intact/sealed, they just don't look a nice as new smooth boots. Finally, carb butterfly shaft seals, so may want to retest spritzing being more precise on where, ie. the boots vs. the butterfly shafts, and proceed from there depending on results.

There are like 9 helpful things I didn't know here, thanks TC!

Just got a decent hour run in, probably average speed around 45 so it warmed up plenty. Idle RPMs look like they are where they need to be (i put that hylomar on yesterday), bit of a learning curve on the takeoff with enrichment off, but thats a newbie/learning curve type deal, only got my MC permit last month! I notice at startup a little smoke coughs out somewhere near the carbs, unless I'm seeing things but it runs well enough where I feel I'm in the "if it ain't broke" zone. Hot damn these things are F U N.