Different gas tanks?

[RyanMR2]

Thanks man, I really appreciated it!

I'll send you a PM.

I loved the raw look of brat bikes and the functionality of 2-up as well. Oh you're definitely right, nothing better than having a beautiful broad on the back

[Xarik]

Ugh

So I didn't have a HUGE opportunity to take a look at the bike when I first bought it and now I'm seeing that there may be more wrong with it than I thought.

The guys at the shop said that there is no telling what's been done to the engine or knowing what exactly needs to be done to it. I put the new pods on (the ones without lips) and the darn thing wouldn't even start and the battery started losing juice. Further more, while I was trying to start it, the throttle cable came undone on both sides -.-. The bike REALLY doesn't need much besides functioning well. It'll clean up nice and it's a good contender for my brat style bike I'm wanting, but at this point, I can't even get it home .

Worst case scenario, I end up putting $800+ into it just trying to get it to run...I don't exactly know what needs to be done to it besides the jets needing to be changed out. The guy before me said he replaced the 4 needles, put the pods on and put the 4 to 1 exhaust on. It was idling fine when I dropped it off and after I put on the new pods, it wouldn't even start up. Not entirely sure what's happening but I'll be more than pissed if these guys don't get it running and I still have to pay them. They seem to know exactly what they are doing and they do have knowledge of what should be done, but I'm just struggling to see it starting up easily after simply replacing the jets.

The furthest pod to the left has gas sitting inside of the lip when I pulled it off (drivers left), so I'm not sure what's up with that...all of the valves sticking out the top of the carbs were pushing air when I was turning it over and no amount of carb cleaner or choke was starting this bike up :/. I paid $1000 for the bike and only want to put $2000 into it all said and done, so I'm just lost as to what to do and hoping I didn't buy a basket case.

Since I can't get it home right now, I'm going to leave it and let them take it apart and tell me what they think needs to be done. I will report back when I hear from them (in a week or two) and then figure it out. Perhaps it won't be worth leaving it with them if I can just do most of the work myself. They said that a bike that is synced like crap will still run decently well, and my main concern when dropping it of was that it wasn't synced....Now I fell like I could re-jet the darn thing myself since all you have to do it take it apart and drop a new one in as far as I can tell.

Frustrating day

[dbeardslee]

Gas inside a pod is generally an indication of a malfunctioning needle and seat. Carbs can cause all kinds of problems so getting them cleaned, properly jetted, and properly adjusted makes a HUGE difference. But when you have a shop doing the work it doesn't take long to drop a $k or two.

And as I told you - if you've got the original coils with thirty year old high tension wires and caps - that can be a problem spot too.

[Xarik]

Gas inside a pod is generally an indication of a malfunctioning needle and seat. Carbs can cause all kinds of problems so getting them cleaned, properly jetted, and properly adjusted makes a HUGE difference. But when you have a shop doing the work it doesn't take long to drop a $k or two.

And as I told you - if you've got the original coils with thirty year old high tension wires and caps - that can be a problem spot too.

Seems like everything can be a problem spot on this bike. Of course anything really could be an issue when you don't know it's history. I wish I knew more about carbs and this bike to do it myself because it can't be too difficult to switch out the parts and reassemble. I just don't know how to adjust certain things or check certain things. They were saying it could be upwards of $800 to get it synced and change out all of the parts and get it running right finally...Not fun :P

[dbeardslee]

Seems like everything can be a problem spot on this bike. Of course anything really could be an issue when you don't know it's history. I wish I knew more about carbs and this bike to do it myself because it can't be too difficult to switch out the parts and reassemble. I just don't know how to adjust certain things or check certain things. They were saying it could be upwards of $800 to get it synced and change out all of the parts and get it running right finally...Not fun :P

A good place to start is Wildkat's thread - Carb Cleaning 101

[Xarik]

A good place to start is Wildkat's thread - Carb Cleaning 101

What about a valve adjustment and stuff like that?

There seems to be an excessive amount of information available, but will I really be able to do it all myself with a basic tool kit? I am more than comfortable taking the thing completely apart and reassembling it, but as for making it actually run properly? I'm not so sure I can do that with my basic tool kit

[Xarik]

Would it actually function properly even if it wasn't synced? I can buy a jet kit and all that jazz for like $125. I am MORE than happy to spend about $400 to get it running, so if I can do that myself, then why the heck not?

[dbeardslee]

Would it actually function properly even if it wasn't synced? I can buy a jet kit and all that jazz for like $125. I am MORE than happy to spend about $400 to get it running, so if I can do that myself, then why the heck not?

Depends on how far out of sync it is. Synching carbs is incredibly easy - you just have to have the gauges. I've even known folks who do it with a single gauge from a brake power bleeder. But the easy way is with a manometer or a four gauge set. My first sync gauge I made out of four Harbor Freight vacuum gauges - and my brother still has that one. Then I upgraded to a Carbtune Pro, and if you put that together with a Colortune plug you've got what you need to adjust the mixtures and sync your carbs. And a caliper comes in real handy for adjusting your float heights. And many times you can find that stuff on e-bay pretty reasonable. But having your carbs adjusted properly and in sync is important if you want it to run right.

Adjusting your valves can be done with a 5mm and 6mm (for turning the crank) hex head socket, a 10mm socket, a ratchet, a feeler gauge, and the appropriate shims. It's way easy too. I don't even remove the cam bearing caps when I do it - just remove the nuts on the center cap, loosen them more on one side and turn the crank 'till one end pops up, replace the shims that need it, and then move around and do the same thing on the other side.

But even though those things are pretty easy to accomplish, it's best if you've got somebody that can show you how to do it the first time. It'll help keep you from doing stuff like dropping nuts down the cam chain tunnel.

[Xarik]

Sorry to triple post. Can I just have them diagnose it, tell me what should potentially be done and then take it home.

At that point, I can follow that guide to cleaning it - Added Q: Can I chemdip most parts for this carb in this stuff: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Berryman-C...eaner/17491945 ??

After cleaning the carb, it should just be a simple thing like switching out parts inside the carb to see what works right? All I would need is a battery tender to keep it from dying every time I try a new combination (hopefully won't have to)....or am I missing something that can't be done with simple tools?

I'm just realizing my own resourcefulness is probably best at this point because I'm not in a dire need for it to run, so I mine as well take my time and learn how to do this stuff and save a buck.

[Xarik]

Depends on how far out of sync it is. Synching carbs is incredibly easy - you just have to have the gauges. I've even known folks who do it with a single gauge from a brake power bleeder. But the easy way is with a manometer or a four gauge set. My first sync gauge I made out of four Harbor Freight vacuum gauges - and my brother still has that one. Then I upgraded to a Carbtune Pro, and if you put that together with a Colortune plug you've got what you need to adjust the mixtures and sync your carbs. And a caliper comes in real handy for adjusting your float heights. And many times you can find that stuff on e-bay pretty reasonable. But having your carbs adjusted properly and in sync is important if you want it to run right.

Adjusting your valves can be done with a 5mm and 6mm (for turning the crank) hex head socket, a 10mm socket, a ratchet, a feeler gauge, and the appropriate shims. It's way easy too. I don't even remove the cam bearing caps when I do it - just remove the nuts on the center cap, loosen them more on one side and turn the crank 'till one end pops up, replace the shims that need it, and then move around and do the same thing on the other side.

But even though those things are pretty easy to accomplish, it's best if you've got somebody that can show you how to do it the first time. It'll help keep you from doing stuff like dropping nuts down the cam chain tunnel.

This doesn't sound impossible and my dad has a handful of tools I could steal from him (Like vacuum gauges, certain gauges and lots of other stuff for car carbs and what have you). It just sounds like I could watch a youtube video or two and I'd be able to do these things within a day (Makes me angry cuz I'm waiting weeks and paying a lot lol). I have a magnet on a long stick, I could get that nut back ;P

[dbeardslee]

This doesn't sound impossible and my dad has a handful of tools I could steal from him (Like vacuum gauges, certain gauges and lots of other stuff for car carbs and what have you). It just sounds like I could watch a youtube video or two and I'd be able to do these things within a day (Makes me angry cuz I'm waiting weeks and paying a lot lol). I have a magnet on a long stick, I could get that nut back ;P

Except there's a bunch stuff down in there that will probably grab that magnet long before you get the nut. Best bet is to be real careful when you're working around the tunnel. I usually stuff a rag in it, just to be on the safe side.

You might check around on the member's list, or start a thread for anyone in your area that might be willing to help. XSives tend to be funny like that - they'll often come out of the woodwork to help someone wrench. Like I said - it's best if someone walks you through it the first time. But then again, nobody showed me the first time and I figured it out with help from the forums - and a mancave full of tools. Just don't get in a big hurry, and post your questions before you turn wrenches.

[dbeardslee]

Can I chemdip most parts for this carb in this stuff: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Berryman-C...eaner/17491945 ??

I used exactly that same stuff to submerse my brothers jets, mixture screws, fuel valves, emulsion tubes, and carb bowls - although the bowls were really carry things a bit far. Just don't put anything rubber or plastic in it - metal only. And plan on using four or five cans of carb cleaner for the orifices on the carb bodies. An air compressor comes in real handy too for blowing things out. I'd probably get some rebuild kits with new gaskets and fuel valves. If you reuse the fuel valves, make sure you keep the needles and seats together for each carb - don't mix them up.

[Xarik]

I used exactly that same stuff to submerse my brothers jets, mixture screws, fuel valves, emulsion tubes, and carb bowls - although the bowls were really carry things a bit far. Just don't put anything rubber or plastic in it - metal only. And plan on using four or five cans of carb cleaner for the orifices on the carb bodies. An air compressor comes in real handy too for blowing things out. I'd probably get some rebuild kits with new gaskets and fuel valves. If you reuse the fuel valves, make sure you keep the needles and seats together for each carb - don't mix them up.

Any explanation for having fuel sitting in the pod of carb 1?

[Xarik]

Better question,

Do you think I can do this job myself and get it running again? I didn't have my question fully answered really: Can this all be done with a basic set of tools and a bit of google work and some basic knowledge? If yes, then I'm going to try and get to the shop tomorrow and just bring it back home to work on it in my apartment for the next few months. I'm fine with buying rebuild kits and new jets and stuff because it'll be cheaper for me to fix the darn thing.

[dbeardslee]

Any explanation for having fuel sitting in the pod of carb 1?

See post #63.

Do you think I can do this job myself and get it running again? I didn't have my question fully answered really: Can this all be done with a basic set of tools and a bit of google work and some basic knowledge? If yes, then I'm going to try and get to the shop tomorrow and just bring it back home to work on it in my apartment for the next few months. I'm fine with buying rebuild kits and new jets and stuff because it'll be cheaper for me to fix the darn thing.

That sort of depends on how mechanically inclined you are. In 2007 I took a bike that hadn't run in three years and went through her from stem to stern with a lot of help from the forums and a good set of tools. I wasn't a motorcycle mechanic, but I've been wrenching on cars since I was 15. So, without knowing your skills I can't really answer that question - but I can tell you that it's doable if you hold up your end.