Different gas tanks?

[Xarik]

Yeah, it looks like somebody used some kind of sealant on those. Might be able to clean it up a bit with some silicon lubricant and gentle rubbing on the diaphrams. I wouldn't go nuts on it, though. The important thing is that the diaphrams don't have any holes in them, and that they're seated in the groove properly when you put the tops back on.

When I mentioned stripping the pilots I wasn't talking about the threads - I meant the head where the screwdriver goes. If it was me I'd buy some new mains and pilots - they're cheap, and you'll know exactly what's in it that way if you can't read the numbers off what you've got.

A lot of brass parts will turn green like that - but those are definitely pretty doggone greenified. A good soak in the parts cleaner should do wonders for them. And don't forget to clean the holes they came out of, as well as the bores for the slides. They need to be able to move easily up and down, and you don't need any foreign material gumming things up.

And don't forget to remove the air jets too - you'll find them in the carburetor bells.

Looks like you're doing a great job so far. Be patient and keep up the good work.

Well all of this needs to be done so that I can buy new main and pilot jets for the bike so it doesn't run like crap, but I'm realizing now that there could be plenty of other reasons that it runs like crap :P. Would you recommend that I go through and cleaning everything, put it back together and see if it runs before I buy new jets for the bike?

As for the pilot jets, I'm afraid I've come darn close to stripping the head, not the threads.

[dbeardslee]

I'd also replace the needle and seats while your at it. And that way you don't have to be so careful about keeping things separated.

Now tell the truth - isn't this a lot more fun than letting some mechanic drain your wallet and get all the glory?

[Xarik]

I'd also replace the needle and seats while your at it. And that way you don't have to be so careful about keeping things separated.

Now tell the truth - isn't this a lot more fun than letting some mechanic drain your wallet and get all the glory?

lol I'd say it is a whole lot better.

At this point, I've only done one and I'm fine with doing one at a time so they all go back in to the same carb. The needles are brand new on the bike (and they look like it too), so I'm going to save a dime and not buy those for right now.

Should I put the whole thing back together before buying different jets?

[dbeardslee]

Well all of this needs to be done so that I can buy new main and pilot jets for the bike so it doesn't run like crap, but I'm realizing now that there could be plenty of other reasons that it runs like crap :P. Would you recommend that I go through and cleaning everything, put it back together and see if it runs before I buy new jets for the bike?

As for the pilot jets, I'm afraid I've come darn close to stripping the head, not the threads.

Put new pilots in it, and the point is moot. I would recommend that you select the proper sized jets for the mods that you've got, and install those in the carbs. But I'd go ahead and give the old ones a good dunk in the parts cleaner. I never throw old jets away - every now and then they come in handy.

And one other thing - from the pics I've seen I can't see the little cross tunnel that denotes the bastardized carb variety, so that's good. Should make it easier to pick the right sizes, and I'll defer to TC on that.

[dbeardslee]

lol I'd say it is a whole lot better.

At this point, I've only done one and I'm fine with doing one at a time so they all go back in to the same carb. The needles are brand new on the bike (and they look like it too), so I'm going to save a dime and not buy those for right now.

Should I put the whole thing back together before buying different jets?

Not unless you want to take them apart again to install the new jets. And cleaning/replacing the jets is only part of the process. Cleaning every little nook and cranny on the carb bodies is also required. Personally I like everything out of the carbs when I go to work on them with carb cleaner. Then I don't have to worry about solvents getting on diaphrams and the like. And I wouldn't drop those fuel valve needles in the carb cleaner bucket - I have no idea what it will do to the viton tips. The fuel valves are the most important things to keep separated, but the viton tipped ones are a lot more forgiving about going into seats that they didn't come out of than the metal-on-metal variety.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Xarik,

You're doing a great job so far! Here's the thread/tech tip on R&R'ing the carbs...review it please.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36017

Some folks will use a little RTV on the diaphragms to help keep them down in the groove while trying to put the springs/tops back on.

Yes, you definitely need to put in new pilot jets at least since they are buggered up. The larger mains have a nice big screwdriver slot so they are easier to remove without destroying them. Once you soak them, and clean them, you WILL be able to see the size stamp on the slot end IF they are Genuine Mikuni....along with the Mikuni symbol...looks like 2 diamonds superimposed side by side.

As for the jetting sizes...I'm no expert despite DB's reference! Follow the jetting guide...but realize that you MAY need to make a change once you get the bike running after you evaluate how it behaves and how the plugs look.

The guide states 2 sizes up on mains for each major MOD...ie. Pods, Aftermarket exhaust...but when more than 1 mod...subtract 1 size from the multiple change....so 2+2=4...then -1 for a final value of 3 sizes up from Stock. The 80 SG's should have 110's, so 117.5 would be the size main to start with. The pilots stock are 42.5, so 45 for the pilot jet.

Just order the separate jets, either from the previously suggested site, or Dennis Kirk, just ensure Genuine Mikuni....not just mikuni type!! The JetsrUs site sells both kinds! If you're careful and don't tear the gaskets, you can just reuse them., but if you like you can order replacements as well.

The float valve SEAT is sealed by that Viton O-ring...so you'll want to replace it...can get a set of viton O-rings from Harbor Freight for ~$6.00 IIRC, I can't recall the exact size to use....but you can figure that out, and then use some WD-40 or similar to be able to put them back in...they will be SNUG, but need to be fitted down flush. The little screens are just extra filters for the carbs/seats.

BTW, take some emory cloth or such to file/sand down the float PIN a little narrower near the head so that it will slide into position WITHOUT any stress/resistance. The interference fit isn't needed...the float bowls will keep the pins in place once they are put back on! The easier sliding pins will help prevent the chance of breaking the posts on subsequent R&R'ing!

T.C.

[Xarik]

Your guys' support is amazing! TC, I wish you posted that thread sooner as I've been using this one and it isn't as easy to follow: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...d_Tutorial.pdf

So, first the bad: several of the screws are stripped so I was unable to open up the bottom of 3 of 4 of the carbs...meaning I wasn't able to clean the emultion tube for 3 of them (which was absolutely horrendous in the first one). Also, one of the jets is stuck inside of the carburetor and is stripped...I feel SOL, but haven't looked up a solution yet, so my fingers are crossed.

I took apart everything that I could and cleaned everything that I could. I guess I'll be looking into finding a Dremel tool in order to cut the heads of some of the screws to use a flat screwdriver, then I'll be finding new screws...are there places to buy those screws? The ones that are on there are EXTREMELY weak and strip in just one slip.

After I cleaned everything, I thought it'd be cool to see if the bike ran now, I went through the time to put everything back together...and no such luck. just keeps turning over and doesn't ever start or even show signs. I gave it a bunch of throttle to try and fill the bowls again (woo that's going to suck to take apart again) and there just is nothing happening. Went until the battery started getting lower and it didn't turn over as much, it's currently on a charger and the bike is fully assembled...I guess my next step is to purchase those jets, take it apart again, figure out the stripped screws.....and then reassemble again?

Do you guys recommend disconnecting the carbs from one another or can I leave them together and just take parts out?

[Xarik]

Oh and I didn't put anything plastic or rubber or anything in the chemdip, so the needles were spared

[dbeardslee]

If you've got enough head on the screw sometimes you can get a hold of them with a vice grip and get 'em started.

I get my screws at Sears Hardware, or Ace, or Lowes, or Home Depot - basically I go to a hardware store. I prefer the hex drive type, but be careful not to over torque them when you put them back in. They're steel screws going into aluminum carb bodies, and the aluminum isn't all that hard to strip. I've got helicoils in every one of the threaded holes where my bowls bolt on from ham fisting them. They don't need to be that awful tight - just good 'n snug.

[dbeardslee]

On the stuck jet - I assume it's a stuck pilot jet. I'd be inclined to soak it good with penetrating oil, and let it sit overnight. If you can't get a screwdriver on it, an easy out might work. Just be careful using easy outs - you don't want to apply too much torque with them. I've broken a few in my day, and since they're hardened steel there's no drilling them out. Best to be liberal with the penetrating oil and let it do its thing.

[dbeardslee]

After I cleaned everything, I thought it'd be cool to see if the bike ran now

Don't get in a big hurry. That's the precursor to many a mechanical nightmare. You might try saying the patience prayer - "Lord please give me patience... RIGHT NOW!"

I usually say the skydiver's prayer when I work on stuff - "Oh Lord, please don't let me f#$% this up!"

[Xarik]

On the stuck jet - I assume it's a stuck pilot jet. I'd be inclined to soak it good with penetrating oil, and let it sit overnight. If you can't get a screwdriver on it, an easy out might work. Just be careful using easy outs - you don't want to apply too much torque with them. I've broken a few in my day, and since they're hardened steel there's no drilling them out. Best to be liberal with the penetrating oil and let it do its thing.

I had it soak for about 3 minutes prior to going at it, so I'll go ahead and spray some in there overnight and see if that helps me out at all :/

I think I'll take your advice and go for the allen headed bolts and just not screw around with the junk that's on there now.

I'm going to go ahead and order the new jets right now so I won't have to mess with the ones that are on there right now.

[Xarik]

Looking at these...can't find these parts anywhere else, so I'm hoping these are right :P

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Small-Round-Type-Main-Jets-For-BS-Series-CV-Carburetor-117-5-4-Pack-/231329955389?hash=item35dc56fe3d&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Pilot-Jets-For-O-E-M-Carbs-Non-Bleed-4-Pack-Size-45-/390914406429?hash=item5b0450781d&vxp=mtr

[Xarik]

Also, there were no pilot jet plugs...are those supposed to be there?

[dbeardslee]

Also, there were no pilot jet plugs...are those supposed to be there?

Not on the late model carbs, with the exception of the bastardized variety - which yours don't appear to be. That's why the main jets are so much smaller on the later model carbs - they draw gas from the bowls through both the pilots and the mains at the same time when the slides come up.