Different gas tanks?

[dbeardslee]

Looking at these...can't find these parts anywhere else, so I'm hoping these are right :P



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Small...56fe3d&vxp=mtr


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Pilot...50781d&vxp=mtr

You want the large round jets - not the small round ones.

[dbeardslee]

These look like the mains you want - Genuine Mikuni (RS HS HSR) Large Round Size 117.5 Main Jet N100.604/117.5

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Xarik,

It's already been mentioned about using some vice locks to get the screws started. We don't like impact drivers as much on the carbs because of the brittleness of the carb body.

Do you have a heat gun? Apply it for a minute or so down into the pilot jet hole, then spritz with carb cleaner or penetrating fluid....repeat. The heat/cool cycles can help break the corrosion's hold on the jet. Not sure if you have seen the pictures of the carb bodies sawed in half?

Here's the 78-79 carbs showing all of the jets in place:


Here's a zoomed image of the Pilot jet in it's tunnel....just ignore the RED string that shows the fuel path from the MAIN jet thru the sharing tunnel....yours doesn't that!



Having a sharp small screwdriver that just fits into the pilot jet slot....you can fit it in place, and then take a light hammer or other wrench to tap on the end of the screwdriver to help ram/jam the tip further into the brass head of the pilot jet, and then attempt to unscrew it...but instead of trying to slowly turn it, give it a quick snap turn....that can often help to overcome the resistance and corrosion while not tearing up the head slot!?

IF that fails, instead of an easy out....an Oxymoron if ever I heard one...get a set of reverse twist/cut drill bits. Get one fairly small...use the other jet you removed to compare it to...big enough to not go thru the small inner jet opening/orifice, and not as wide as the body of the jet, so it won't damage the carb body threads. Go slowly with a variable speed reversible drill, and slowly advance the bit into the jet...as it cuts into the jet it often grabs the jet and then spins it out!

Don't forget to soak the carb float bowl in the cleaner, and then spritz that channel to the bowl jet to make sure it clear and open! That is what feeds the starter jet. Twisting the throttle does nothing but open the butterflies and let more air in, but not necessarily any more fuel. There is NO PUMP in the carbs...it's all vacuum actuated....and if you open the throttle while trying to start, you just reduce the overall vacuum available and will reduce the amount of fuel that it can suck up thru the carbs!

T.C.

[Xarik]

Well dang, that's some super information!

At this point, I am charging my battery and waiting for parts to arrive ;P.

Instead of using a vice grips to loosen the external bolts, I'm going to go ahead and spray them with more liquid wrench, get my dremel tool (patiently waiting on the mail to arrive) and make a flat spot for a flat head to get them off. Hopefully this works better than the vice grips ;P

Also, I'm waiting for the mail man to bring me all of my jets! Once I get it all apart and cleaned out for the second time (not really the second time), then I'll likely do it again, because why the heck not :P.

I'm so thankful for all of the information I've been given! As for the stuck pilot jet, I have MAP gas that I can use (it's extremely hot, so I'll use it sparingly) and I will use more liquid wrench and try to see if a quick snap will loosen it up. At that point, I will NOT be putting it back in :P. I'll probably go shopping for a different screw driver that fits in there a lot better too.

Sorry I'm not responding to everything, but know that I'm extremely appreciative and DO read everything . I will update when all of my parts arrive in a week or two!

[dbeardslee]

I find a small Craftsman screwdriver works the best for me to get at the pilot jets.



And once the carbs are cleaned and mounted, with the tank turned around backwards and sitting on the rear of the bike, an extra long craftsman is my weapon of choice for final adjustment and sync.

[dbeardslee]

Also, I'm waiting for the mail man to bring me all of my jets!

I hope you read post #106.

[Xarik]

I find a small Craftsman screwdriver works the best for me to get at the pilot jets.



And once the carbs are cleaned and mounted, with the tank turned around backwards and sitting on the rear of the bike, an extra long craftsman is my weapon of choice for final adjustment and sync.

Yeah, I'll have a few questions when we get to that ;P. Not quite sure how to adjust and sync, but that'll come in time.

Ok so now I'm sitting here kicking myself in the pants because I do too much research at one time and can't find things again...I found that one of my spark plug wires is messed up and the boot is broken basically. I can't remember where I saw it, but someone suggested changing out the thing that gives the spark plugs spark (when I move to the newer GREEN colored system, it's supposed to give a hotter and more accurate spark). Now I can't find what it's called or what the heck it is but I know it was like $170 or something like that ;P. Would it be a bad idea to do this modification BEFORE/DURING cleaning the carbs?

[Xarik]

THIS:

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Yamaha-XS1100...-/361332300935

[Xarik]

Here, I found the "how to" thread too :P. I found somewhere that I should go with the green 3ohm system instead:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ition+coil+ohm

[dbeardslee]

THIS:

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Yamaha-XS1100...-/361332300935

I thought I sent you a PM a week or two ago regarding the Dyna coils. You can get a set of two at Z1 Enterprises for $130. Then pickup a universal 7mm solid core (copper or steel) plug wire set and some NGK plug caps (non resistor recommended and much less expensive) - and you can get both at O'Reilly Autoparts.

[dbeardslee]

One more time - did you read post #106?

[Xarik]

One more time - did you read post #106?

YES! I did and I ordered the ones you suggested along with the pilots I linked . Thank you for the correction!

YES! I can never remember where I see things, but now I see that you did indeed send me the information for that.

Would you recommend doing this upgrade right away then?

[dbeardslee]

YES! I did and I ordered the ones you suggested along with the pilots I linked . Thank you for the correction!

YES! I can never remember where I see things, but now I see that you did indeed send me the information for that.

Would you recommend doing this upgrade right away then?

I would. The bike will start better and run better. Besides - thirty-year-old coils with thirty-year-old high tension wires can be problematic.

[Xarik]

I thought I sent you a PM a week or two ago regarding the Dyna coils. You can get a set of two at Z1 Enterprises for $130. Then pickup a universal 7mm solid core (copper or steel) plug wire set and some NGK plug caps (non resistor recommended and much less expensive) - and you can get both at O'Reilly Autoparts.

Is there a cheaper option for spark plug wires? I'm not trying to be cheap...but I'm paying $130 for a new coil + the mounting brackets, I really don't want to spend $60 on some stupid spark plug wires...I know they are important, but there has to be something cheaper than $60

[dbeardslee]

Is there a cheaper option for spark plug wires? I'm not trying to be cheap...but I'm paying $130 for a new coil + the mounting brackets, I really don't want to spend $60 on some stupid spark plug wires...I know they are important, but there has to be something cheaper than $60

$60?!!! I just get a cheap set of 7mm universal solid core automotive wires, and I've never spent more than $12 for a set. The last set I bought was on closeout at Rock Auto, and I got them for $3 and change. Paid more for the shipping than the wires. The wires I use look just like the ones in the following pic which are Standard Motor Products 2403W's.

There's nothing magical about the set - I buy it for the wires (solid copper or steel core), and the little caps that look like Devo hats in the center. You need that kind of cap for the coil connection, and the little metal terminals. I cut the plug caps off the wires, and screw on NGK non resistor caps for the plug connection. You can get the NGK's at O'Reilly for $1.29 ea. NGK 8381

The first time I bought wires I went up to a local autoparts store and asked to see some sets of cheap universal wires with solid cores. I looked through the boxes 'till I found some that had the ends I wanted, and I've been using that kind of wires ever since. I can rewire about three sets of coils with one box.



I see the Standard Motor Products 2403W's on Amazon for $11.85, but they don't show a pic, so I can't be 100% positive it's the same wire set. The first time I bought them they had the company name "Federal" on them, and I think somewhere along the line Federal shifted to Standard Motor Products. At any rate the pic I posted came off Rock Auto's site under Standard Motor Products 2403W, and the 2403W's I got from them the last time were what I was looking for.