Rising from the ashes

[Blank Slate]

You can see the old bolts in the background cover

[jetmechmarty]

Put anti seize on them. The aluminum case will corrode if you don't. You could even snap a bolt head off trying to remove them one day. Just snug them down. No grunting he man torque is required or recommended.

[mack]

Hi marty

is that due to metal incompatability or diff thermo expansion with regard to torque spec's.

[Blank Slate]

Put anti seize on them. The aluminum case will corrode if you don't. You could even snap a bolt head off trying to remove them one day. Just snug them down. No grunting he man torque is required or recommended.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. I bought some anti seize (brown copper) which said it was for ss, and I hate the stuff! Messy and makes all my bolts look rusty as heck. Which antiseize is recommended for bolts?

[Radioguylogs]

Permatex

I've been using Permatex anti-seize compound that I purchased at an auto parts store. It's a silver-colored, thick, oily paste. You can clean it off the bolt heads with paint thinner or any solvent if you make a mess.

[Blank Slate]

Tx again Mike!

[jetmechmarty]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. I bought some anti seize (brown copper) which said it was for ss, and I hate the stuff! Messy and makes all my bolts look rusty as heck. Which antiseize is recommended for bolts?

No. The brown copper is correct. You just apply it to the threads and wipe off the excess. If you're using a torque wrench, the spec in the service manual is for clean, dry threads. Anti-seize is a lubricant, so you'll over-torque the bolts. Just snug them up by hand.

is that due to metal incompatability or diff thermo expansion with regard to torque spec's.

Any time you put dissimilar metals together, you get galvanic corrosion once an electrolyte (moisture) is introduced. The aluminum case will corrode because it is anodic to the stainless bolts which are the cathode. The anode gives up electrons to the cathode. The anti-seize compound creates a barrier between the dissimilar metals. The barrier should at least slow the process if not stop it. It's often unavoidable to put dissimilar metals together because a steel engine is too heavy and aluminum bolts aren't going to be very strong.

[Blank Slate]

Ok the manual is not helping. I took the cover of the gear shift off to clean it. Looks great btw... and a spring popped out and bit my finger. I have no idea how to put it back and where does it go? It's the black spring in the pic.

[Radioguylogs]

Don't worry Pablo-it's more simple you'd imagine.

There is a post sticking up on the engine side. When you put that "crows foot" looking gear back on, that spring straddles a post on the engine size. It's kind of a three handed operation, keeping the spacer in place as you locate the spring, but it is not at all hard.

If it's not clear, you put that "crows foot looking gear back on the engine side before you put the cover back over it. The nub on the "crows foot gear also goes between the ends of the spring, along with engine-side post.

You can imagine how it works. The nub pushes against the spring, and the post keeps the spring from moving, so the spring makes the 'crows foot" return back to the same resting position after it move to shift each gear.

Someone will post a picture.

[TopCatGr58]

Here's the Tech Tip with photos and info!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2785

T.C.

[Blank Slate]

Sweet guys thank you!

[Blank Slate]

God bless you for trying to explain this to me but it made absolutely no sense to me without pictures. I had to look at TopCat's link (as I assembled it wrong many times) to finally figure it out. Through trial and error, I got it done.

Don't worry Pablo-it's more simple you'd imagine.

There is a post sticking up on the engine side. When you put that "crows foot" looking gear back on, that spring straddles a post on the engine size. It's kind of a three handed operation, keeping the spacer in place as you locate the spring, but it is not at all hard.

If it's not clear, you put that "crows foot looking gear back on the engine side before you put the cover back over it. The nub on the "crows foot gear also goes between the ends of the spring, along with engine-side post.

You can imagine how it works. The nub pushes against the spring, and the post keeps the spring from moving, so the spring makes the 'crows foot" return back to the same resting position after it move to shift each gear.

Someone will post a picture.

[Blank Slate]

My center stand is bent. See pic below. I was going to put it in a vice grip but I doubt I have strength to bent it back. I thought about hammering away at it but that could damage it. Suggestions? It was bent when I got it new. Prob should have returned it then.

[Radioguylogs]

eBay

There are many centerstands on eBay- because it's a part that (almost) never need replacing. I'm thinking you would probably find one for $10 and spray paint it with Rustoleum satin black.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Blank Slate,
Send a PM to Andreas he has one or more. Give him your address and he will quote a price to your door. Advantage is he is in BC so no border to cross with all the complications that can entail.
You might have to wait a few days for a reply as I recall he was off racing ,fishing or drinking maybe all three for a few days
Phil