Street fighter/ Bobber build 2.0

[Fearthepack]

Thats what i was thinking thanks....

[DiverRay]

To be safe, you could put a hose to a "Y" fitting between them, and put a paper fuel filter over the third end of the "Y" to keep the critters out.

[Fearthepack]

Was hoping to get the carbs dialed in today looks like a no go. Stock engine with pods and 4 into 1 with a small muffler.... looks like the 145 main is to small doesn't pull well at upper rpm's. Also have 45 pilots it pulls well from 2-6000 rpms so appears that is correct. No use going any farther until I get the mains right. I'll order 147.5 and 150 mains.

[Fearthepack]

.....tried larger mains 147.2 and 150 to no avail what next. I put the 145's back in which should be correct with my setup. This time i left the pods off and it ran like a bat out of hell...WOW finally got to experience big pulling power. So no pods with unrestricted air flow leaned out the excessive rich condition causing my poor running issues. I think my 145 mains are correct because strong constant pull to redline. I had to stop at this point ran out of time.
So when i resume i'm planning on working on the correct pilot size which is one up from stock 42.5 to 45. With pods back on I will screw the air screw in from 2.5 turns out to lean out conditions. If it corrects running conditions from 1.5 to 2.5 out pilot is good. If I hit 1.0 or less the pilot is to big and needs to be switched back to stock 42.5. Can I get a yes or no on the direction I intend to go before I start. Thanks in advance. Carbs are confirmed earlier 79's.

[bikerphil]

Maybe the rubber on the pod is restricting the main air jet in the carb bell. If not, I would try a different style of pods that are more free flowing.

[DiverRay]

+1 on the pods being the problem! Look at the inside of the pods. If there is a smaller diameter within 15mm of the outside of the lip, there is restrictions at the air jet. If you still have the harden rubber from the stock airbox, cut them to about 1.5" long and mount them on the carbs first, then mount the pods to those.

[Fearthepack]

I did the stock air stacks modification to the pods so that should have eliminated any lip interference.

[Fearthepack]

Sorry a while ago before i started with carb tuning.

[DiverRay]

Then the pods may just not flow the air you need. Look at the surface area of the pods, and see if there are some with a little more area. I seem to remember XS650 had some that were oval...

[Fearthepack]

I hear you on those pods...
Ok pods on and air screw out 1/2 turn improved response but not that good still loading up. I'm going to step down to 42.5 pilot and see what happens first.

[Fearthepack]

Help fuel spitting out the back of all 4 carbs. Spraying out the hole in the 10 o'clock position. It started spitting fuel on last jet change. So i took apart the carbs again and blew out all the openings all were fine no blockages. Decided to raise the floats to 26.2 from 25.7 on 1979 carbs. Reinstalled and problem still exists....could use some help. I've removed the carbs a bunch of times and never had a problem after reinstall.

[Fearthepack]

p.s. this has created a no run condition just a little pop now and then.

[Fearthepack]

Trying to omit culprits....
1. Dropped 4 brass floats in a bucket of water for an hour....all floated so held under water for five minutes and all popped up fine.
2. Polished up the needle and seat...
3. Reassembled and bench tested by blowing in the fuel line while upside down and worked perfect, rotated to open up the seat then closed again while blowing and all worked as it should.
4. Reinstall the carbs and only ran fuel to #3,#4 till it stopped flowing in clear fuel lines. Disconnected the gas tank line and put a line I could blow into. First attempt hard to tell if air is getting past the seat. Wait a few minutes and repeat and could notice air bypassing the needle/seat. Wait 2 hours and easily blow into the tube....WTF, WTF, WTF

Was thinking bad (contaminated fuel) was keeping the needle from seating but why would the forced air by mouth get easier over time with no new gas flow.

A betting man says the floats are failing over time causing the needles to seat worse and worse yet they float fine in water...

I know something close to nothing at this point......

[DiverRay]

OK, first are the vents clear? if the vent is blocked, you WILL overflow!
After your test, you should have pulled the two floats and shake them near your ear. You can hear if there is liquid inside the float. Or, follow this:
To check the floats, put them in a pot of water on the stove, and turn on the heat to slowly bring up to a boil. Look for any small air bubbles from the floats as the temp rises. If you don't see anything, pull the pan off the heat and add a couple of ice cubes to bring the temp back down somewhat quickly. Do NOT just pack ice into it, as you can cause the floats to collapse. When done, again shake near your ear and listen for liquid.

[Fearthepack]

Yes vents are clear....
Did shake and no audible fluid was present....
However that is not always the case being to hear something.....
I cant think of any other items in the carb but floats that can fail...its either clogged passages or not for the most.
I've never done what you have suggested about the floats should be interesting...